Bilstein 5100 Before & After - Pics and Measurements
#232
Senior Member
The following users liked this post:
ChefBorOzzy (07-25-2017)
#233
Just Another Member
The following users liked this post:
thsmith (07-27-2017)
#234
Senior Member
I am! Here you go. These were posted by another member here though I can't find the original post -
Taking off the axle nut might involve removing IWE. This might get into vacumn issues. I just did both front shocks and did NOT remove axle nut or IWE stuff. The key seemed to be loosening the Lower Control Arm nuts (21mm ???) a little and that allowed the LCA to swing down enough to clear the pressed in lower bolts on OEM shock.
(3) top shock bolts: 52 lbFT (70 Nm)
(1) top shock rod nut: 41 lbFT (55 Nm)
(2) bottom shock bolts: 66 lbFT (90 Nm)
(1) Stabilizer link upper nut: 59 lbFT (80 Nm)
(1) Lower ball Joint nut: 76 lbFT (103 Nm)
(1) Upper ball Joint nut: 46 lbFT (63 Nm)
(3) IEW bolts: 16 lbIN (12 Nm)
(1) axle nut: 30 lbFT (40 Nm)
(1) Brake Hose Bracket (outermost) 22 lbFT (30 Nm)
(1) Tie Rod end nut: 76 lbFT (103 Nm)
(1) Wheel speed sensor wire bracket bolt: 106 lbIN (12 Nm)
Lugs: 150 lbFt (204 Nm)
Just noticed the link above is to these settings! Mods please feel free to delete this post.
Taking off the axle nut might involve removing IWE. This might get into vacumn issues. I just did both front shocks and did NOT remove axle nut or IWE stuff. The key seemed to be loosening the Lower Control Arm nuts (21mm ???) a little and that allowed the LCA to swing down enough to clear the pressed in lower bolts on OEM shock.
(3) top shock bolts: 52 lbFT (70 Nm)
(1) top shock rod nut: 41 lbFT (55 Nm)
(2) bottom shock bolts: 66 lbFT (90 Nm)
(1) Stabilizer link upper nut: 59 lbFT (80 Nm)
(1) Lower ball Joint nut: 76 lbFT (103 Nm)
(1) Upper ball Joint nut: 46 lbFT (63 Nm)
(3) IEW bolts: 16 lbIN (12 Nm)
(1) axle nut: 30 lbFT (40 Nm)
(1) Brake Hose Bracket (outermost) 22 lbFT (30 Nm)
(1) Tie Rod end nut: 76 lbFT (103 Nm)
(1) Wheel speed sensor wire bracket bolt: 106 lbIN (12 Nm)
Lugs: 150 lbFt (204 Nm)
Just noticed the link above is to these settings! Mods please feel free to delete this post.
Last edited by MESCMS&P; 07-25-2017 at 07:05 PM. Reason: Stupidity...
The following users liked this post:
thsmith (07-27-2017)
#235
Senior Member
I did 2nd to highest setting so that left a little rake, hate seeing trucks nose high when they put stuff in the bed or hook up a trailer, but these trucks come with way too much rake. But I'm also not trying to stuff the biggest tire possible on it without rubbing.
Before
After
Before
After
-
The following 2 users liked this post by devinsdad:
Dale Willimus (08-09-2017),
Pancho11 (02-14-2021)
#237
Senior Member
I am! Here you go. These were posted by another member here though I can't find the original post -
Taking off the axle nut might involve removing IWE. This might get into vacumn issues. I just did both front shocks and did NOT remove axle nut or IWE stuff. The key seemed to be loosening the Lower Control Arm nuts (21mm ???) a little and that allowed the LCA to swing down enough to clear the pressed in lower bolts on OEM shock.
(3) top shock bolts: 52 lbFT (70 Nm)
(1) top shock rod nut: 41 lbFT (55 Nm)
(2) bottom shock bolts: 66 lbFT (90 Nm)
(1) Stabilizer link upper nut: 59 lbFT (80 Nm)
(1) Lower ball Joint nut: 76 lbFT (103 Nm)
(1) Upper ball Joint nut: 46 lbFT (63 Nm)
(3) IEW bolts: 16 lbIN (12 Nm)
(1) axle nut: 30 lbFT (40 Nm)
(1) Brake Hose Bracket (outermost) 22 lbFT (30 Nm)
(1) Tie Rod end nut: 76 lbFT (103 Nm)
(1) Wheel speed sensor wire bracket bolt: 106 lbIN (12 Nm)
Lugs: 150 lbFt (204 Nm)
Just noticed the link above is to these settings! Mods please feel free to delete this post.
Taking off the axle nut might involve removing IWE. This might get into vacumn issues. I just did both front shocks and did NOT remove axle nut or IWE stuff. The key seemed to be loosening the Lower Control Arm nuts (21mm ???) a little and that allowed the LCA to swing down enough to clear the pressed in lower bolts on OEM shock.
(3) top shock bolts: 52 lbFT (70 Nm)
(1) top shock rod nut: 41 lbFT (55 Nm)
(2) bottom shock bolts: 66 lbFT (90 Nm)
(1) Stabilizer link upper nut: 59 lbFT (80 Nm)
(1) Lower ball Joint nut: 76 lbFT (103 Nm)
(1) Upper ball Joint nut: 46 lbFT (63 Nm)
(3) IEW bolts: 16 lbIN (12 Nm)
(1) axle nut: 30 lbFT (40 Nm)
(1) Brake Hose Bracket (outermost) 22 lbFT (30 Nm)
(1) Tie Rod end nut: 76 lbFT (103 Nm)
(1) Wheel speed sensor wire bracket bolt: 106 lbIN (12 Nm)
Lugs: 150 lbFt (204 Nm)
Just noticed the link above is to these settings! Mods please feel free to delete this post.
#239
5.0 DOHC V8
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: The southern California sardine can
Posts: 3,354
Received 1,587 Likes
on
974 Posts
Are you guys getting an alignment after installing the shocks?
You should, especially when your intent is to also raise your front ride height (due to a thing called bump steer). I believe that as you let the front suspension droop, or, extend (raising the front), your front tires will toe-in. With the front ride height higher, you might also gain positive camber. These are the primary reasons to re-align... and to check the overall caster setting now that the truck sits more level? A shop can tell you.
#240
Senior Member
You should, especially when your intent is to also raise your front ride height (due to a thing called bump steer). I believe that as you let the front suspension droop, or, extend (raising the front), your front tires will toe-in. With the front ride height higher, you might also gain positive camber. These are the primary reasons to re-align... and to check the overall caster setting now that the truck sits more level? A shop can tell you.