Bilstein 5100
#271
I paid 290 for the labor and 90 for the alignment. At 1.75 inch my lariat did NOT need cam adjusters. Don't let some of the shops fool you, I was told by a few unnamed shops they wouldn't touch the alignment without them. The only thing that was slightly out after the level was my toe.
#272
Senior Member
I paid 290 for the labor and 90 for the alignment. At 1.75 inch my lariat did NOT need cam adjusters. Don't let some of the shops fool you, I was told by a few unnamed shops they wouldn't touch the alignment without them. The only thing that was slightly out after the level was my toe.
In an ideal world where the UCA and LCA lengths are identical with the hub centered between the two, camber would not be affected by a leveling kit. The LCA is longer than the UCA and the hub is not centered so moving the entire assembly down using a leveling kit results in a non-centered pivot point which affects camber. The reality is that the impact is usually small and still falls within the factory specifications so no one makes an adjustment. It is also the easy way out for the alignment technician because he makes a quick buck off a toe adjustment only.
Camber adjustments are possible on the Ford pickups because there is room to move around the LCA when loose, but it requires straps to hold it in place and a lot of work to get it right. A basic camber kit consist of an adjustment nut (one on the front of the LCA each side) and backing plate. It takes 5 minutes to install on both sides. The alignment technician at the new shop that I am going to tomorrow to fix my alignment stated he is happy to use the camber kit because it makes his job much easier. The kit was $36.
Last edited by GMC to Ford; 03-10-2017 at 01:40 PM.
#273
All you have to do is look at my alignment numbers in post #260. The before and after camber was after the Bilstein 5100 install and out of specification for cross camber. In fact, look at any truck picture four wheeling over rough terrain with the control arms flexed and it is obvious that camber is affected.
In an ideal world where the UCA and LCA lengths are identical with the hub centered between the two, camber would not be affected by a leveling kit. The LCA is longer than the UCA and the hub is not centered so moving the entire assembly down using a leveling kit results in a non-centered pivot point which affects camber. The reality is that the impact is usually small and still falls within the factory specifications so no one makes an adjustment. It is also the easy way out for the alignment technician because he makes a quick buck off a toe adjustment only.
Camber adjustments are possible on the Ford pickups because there is room to move around the LCA when loose, but it requires straps to hold it in place and a lot of work to get it right. A basic camber kit consist of an adjustment nut (one on the front of the LCA each side) and backing plate. It takes 5 minutes to install on both sides. The alignment technician at the new shop that I am going to tomorrow to fix my alignment stated he is happy to use the camber kit because it makes his job much easier. The kit was $36.
In an ideal world where the UCA and LCA lengths are identical with the hub centered between the two, camber would not be affected by a leveling kit. The LCA is longer than the UCA and the hub is not centered so moving the entire assembly down using a leveling kit results in a non-centered pivot point which affects camber. The reality is that the impact is usually small and still falls within the factory specifications so no one makes an adjustment. It is also the easy way out for the alignment technician because he makes a quick buck off a toe adjustment only.
Camber adjustments are possible on the Ford pickups because there is room to move around the LCA when loose, but it requires straps to hold it in place and a lot of work to get it right. A basic camber kit consist of an adjustment nut (one on the front of the LCA each side) and backing plate. It takes 5 minutes to install on both sides. The alignment technician at the new shop that I am going to tomorrow to fix my alignment stated he is happy to use the camber kit because it makes his job much easier. The kit was $36.
#274
Member
Update to the thread!
I got my 5100's installed a couple days ago on my 2016 F150 FX4, Special Edition with stock 275/55/20 tires and stock wheels. For those who want to see photos of the difference with stock rims, here they are. I had them put on at the 2.1" highest setting, and I'm glad I did.
My stock heights were 40.25" in the rear, and around 37.5" in the front, giving quite a bit of rake. I measured straight through the center of the wheels up to the edge of the wheel well. After installation, the rear height did not change, and the front was raised just a hair over 2" to approx. 39.5". I love the way it looks now, and still maintains a SLIGHT bit of rake.
I did the rears myself in about 25 minutes in the driveway, and had the dealer do the fronts at a cost of 4.5 hours labour plus an alignment. I can't say how much better the truck looks.
The ride is much stiffer, instead of riding like a Cadillac, it now rides like a real truck, which I prefer. The body roll in cornering is much improved, as is the back end hop I noticed over speed bumps, etc. Also, the power transfer on take off is much more noticeable as well, the truck feels faster even though it isn't.
I have attached before and after photos of the right side of the truck, as well as the CV angles before and after. With the 2.1" of lift, the CV angles are slightly more, but not as much as on my 2004 F150 with a 2" spacer block. I apologize that the pics of the CV's are opposite sides.
All in all, I am very satisfied with the 5100's. In my opinion, the added cost over spacers was well worth it as I intend to keep this truck for quite a while.
I got my 5100's installed a couple days ago on my 2016 F150 FX4, Special Edition with stock 275/55/20 tires and stock wheels. For those who want to see photos of the difference with stock rims, here they are. I had them put on at the 2.1" highest setting, and I'm glad I did.
My stock heights were 40.25" in the rear, and around 37.5" in the front, giving quite a bit of rake. I measured straight through the center of the wheels up to the edge of the wheel well. After installation, the rear height did not change, and the front was raised just a hair over 2" to approx. 39.5". I love the way it looks now, and still maintains a SLIGHT bit of rake.
I did the rears myself in about 25 minutes in the driveway, and had the dealer do the fronts at a cost of 4.5 hours labour plus an alignment. I can't say how much better the truck looks.
The ride is much stiffer, instead of riding like a Cadillac, it now rides like a real truck, which I prefer. The body roll in cornering is much improved, as is the back end hop I noticed over speed bumps, etc. Also, the power transfer on take off is much more noticeable as well, the truck feels faster even though it isn't.
I have attached before and after photos of the right side of the truck, as well as the CV angles before and after. With the 2.1" of lift, the CV angles are slightly more, but not as much as on my 2004 F150 with a 2" spacer block. I apologize that the pics of the CV's are opposite sides.
All in all, I am very satisfied with the 5100's. In my opinion, the added cost over spacers was well worth it as I intend to keep this truck for quite a while.
The following 3 users liked this post by WheatleyF150:
#275
Fishmonger
my 5100s should arrive tomorrow from Stage3Motorsports; hoping to get them installed over the weekend. Thanks for the pics, Wheatley. I have a canopy on my truck so the back is weighed down a bit, I'll probably go 1.75" setting.
#277
Senior Member
#278
5.0 DOHC V8
Join Date: Apr 2017
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I ordered a set yesterday from Andy at Stage3... he said the kit would be at least 10 days from shipping; they can't keep enough inventory. These are selling like hotcakes, apparently.
Also, the lowest setting for the front, which would be the *stock* setting, raises the front 0.8" fwiw.
I've lowered the back of my 5.0/300A '16 XLT Screw approx. 1" using the MaxTrac shackles. When I install the 5100s at the lowest front setting, I expect the front to rise that 0.8 (+/-)", making the truck very close to level but not quite, just as Wheatley reported his preference of how his truck sits.
Also, the lowest setting for the front, which would be the *stock* setting, raises the front 0.8" fwiw.
I've lowered the back of my 5.0/300A '16 XLT Screw approx. 1" using the MaxTrac shackles. When I install the 5100s at the lowest front setting, I expect the front to rise that 0.8 (+/-)", making the truck very close to level but not quite, just as Wheatley reported his preference of how his truck sits.
#280
Senior Member
I received my rears yesterday and fronts should be here today from Stage 3. Super stoked about getting them installed.
I have put so much thought in to what height to set them at 1.26 or 1.75. I fell like my wife deciding on a dress.
Going to install 275/60/20 KO2's so believe the 1.76 should be ok but I also tow a boat on alot of summer weekends and feel it may squat a little too much for my liking.
Grrrrrrr. easy decision for others but hell for me lol.
I have put so much thought in to what height to set them at 1.26 or 1.75. I fell like my wife deciding on a dress.
Going to install 275/60/20 KO2's so believe the 1.76 should be ok but I also tow a boat on alot of summer weekends and feel it may squat a little too much for my liking.
Grrrrrrr. easy decision for others but hell for me lol.