Big 3 Upgrade & Battery Saver Fuction
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Big 3 Upgrade & Battery Saver Fuction
I made a suggestion to do the big three upgrade on a 2015 2.7L and was met with a reply from a member that it was a "really bad idea" and to read about the Battery Saver Info. Looked for such info for a few hours and couldn't find anything. Almost two days later, I'm still looking and this member doesn't seem to want to give me an answer.
Anyone know why this is supposedly a "really bad idea" or did I just get trolled and got sent on a wild goose chase?
Anyone know why this is supposedly a "really bad idea" or did I just get trolled and got sent on a wild goose chase?
#3
system has a built in amp meter on the negative cable by the battery, looks like a loose ring hanging around the cable. it uses this to measure total load on the battery to determine how high to command the alternator. as long as you dont do anything on the ground side that bypasses this and goes straight to the battery i dont see a problem
#4
One Clean Machine
iTrader: (5)
Probably because you have the 2.7EB, with the Start/Stop feature.
Some have had Issues, with it enables, after upgrading theyre stereo, and adding a aftermarket Sub. But, then few, havent had a Issue... ymmv...
Some have had Issues, with it enables, after upgrading theyre stereo, and adding a aftermarket Sub. But, then few, havent had a Issue... ymmv...
#6
On the 2.7L w/ Start Stop, Ford uses a sensor that mounts directly to your battery negative post (it is a resistive sensor w/ temperature monitoring). Ford uses these on this application because battery health is more important for the Start/Stop functionality. On other non-start/stop Ford vehicles in recent production, Ford uses a Hall Effect sensor that looks like a doughnut that wraps around the negative cable near the battery negative post.
It was likely mentioned doing the Big 3 upgrade would be a bad idea, only if you bypassed the current measuring sensor. What can happen is if the sensor is bypassed, any battery drain loss would not be captured by the system and could possibly have a weaker battery than the vehicle believes. Vehicles have a protection to shut down the electrical system to preserve enough battery power to restart under certain circumstances.
But with the battery current sensor, simply tap off after the sensor and all will be fine. I'm assuming you are doing an audio upgrade, how much watts do you plan to pull?
It was likely mentioned doing the Big 3 upgrade would be a bad idea, only if you bypassed the current measuring sensor. What can happen is if the sensor is bypassed, any battery drain loss would not be captured by the system and could possibly have a weaker battery than the vehicle believes. Vehicles have a protection to shut down the electrical system to preserve enough battery power to restart under certain circumstances.
But with the battery current sensor, simply tap off after the sensor and all will be fine. I'm assuming you are doing an audio upgrade, how much watts do you plan to pull?
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Ricktwuhk (10-18-2016)
#7
Member
Thread Starter
On the 2.7L w/ Start Stop, Ford uses a sensor that mounts directly to your battery negative post (it is a resistive sensor w/ temperature monitoring). Ford uses these on this application because battery health is more important for the Start/Stop functionality. On other non-start/stop Ford vehicles in recent production, Ford uses a Hall Effect sensor that looks like a doughnut that wraps around the negative cable near the battery negative post.
It was likely mentioned doing the Big 3 upgrade would be a bad idea, only if you bypassed the current measuring sensor. What can happen is if the sensor is bypassed, any battery drain loss would not be captured by the system and could possibly have a weaker battery than the vehicle believes. Vehicles have a protection to shut down the electrical system to preserve enough battery power to restart under certain circumstances.
But with the battery current sensor, simply tap off after the sensor and all will be fine. I'm assuming you are doing an audio upgrade, how much watts do you plan to pull?
It was likely mentioned doing the Big 3 upgrade would be a bad idea, only if you bypassed the current measuring sensor. What can happen is if the sensor is bypassed, any battery drain loss would not be captured by the system and could possibly have a weaker battery than the vehicle believes. Vehicles have a protection to shut down the electrical system to preserve enough battery power to restart under certain circumstances.
But with the battery current sensor, simply tap off after the sensor and all will be fine. I'm assuming you are doing an audio upgrade, how much watts do you plan to pull?
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MAGNJ (10-18-2016)
#9
One Clean Machine
iTrader: (5)
"The Big Three wiring upgrade. ... This upgrade replaces or augments three key cables in the electrical system with 1/0 or 4 gauge wires: the battery ground to chassis wire, the chassis to engine block wire, and the alternator plus to battery plus wire."