Best Brake pads?
03-13-2019, 10:36 PM
#11
Senior Member
which pads are those?
hard to navigate their ****ty site
https://www.hawkperformance.com/street
edit. Thx google
https://www.hawkperformance.com/hps-5-0
03-14-2019, 05:10 PM
#12
I had the Z36 full kit on my 14 and moved them to my 16 when the 14 was wrecked. My only two complaints, first, long bedding process, had a soft peddle for at least 1000 miles before they fully seated, and that was both when first installed on the 14, and again on the 16 due to a little bit of rust on the rotor. The other complaint that after 70K miles one pad got a bit sticky in the caliper and grooved the rotor, making a horrible groan when I braked a certain way.
I still have the full kit, but need new pads and have the rotors resurfaced. They have plenty of meat left on them too. Once they bedded, they were fantastic, they worked so well they defeated the Anti lock and would lock all four wheels on a panic stop. They were also very clean, very little brake dust on the wheels, and I got more than 70K out of the pads. Could have got more if the one pad didn't stick.
I have used EBC pads as well and they bed almost immediately, and stop just as good as the Powerstops, but they were dirty, would blacken a wheel in a week. They were the Green Stuff pads.
I was trying to remember the name of the other pads I heard about, and someone here mentioned them, the Hawk pads, which I may try out when I get the Powerstop rotors resurfaced. The OEM brakes are OK, but don't hold a candle to the Powerstops.
I still have the full kit, but need new pads and have the rotors resurfaced. They have plenty of meat left on them too. Once they bedded, they were fantastic, they worked so well they defeated the Anti lock and would lock all four wheels on a panic stop. They were also very clean, very little brake dust on the wheels, and I got more than 70K out of the pads. Could have got more if the one pad didn't stick.
I have used EBC pads as well and they bed almost immediately, and stop just as good as the Powerstops, but they were dirty, would blacken a wheel in a week. They were the Green Stuff pads.
I was trying to remember the name of the other pads I heard about, and someone here mentioned them, the Hawk pads, which I may try out when I get the Powerstop rotors resurfaced. The OEM brakes are OK, but don't hold a candle to the Powerstops.
03-14-2019, 05:15 PM
#13
which pads are those?
hard to navigate their ****ty site
https://www.hawkperformance.com/street
edit. Thx google
https://www.hawkperformance.com/hps-5-0
03-14-2019, 05:22 PM
#14
I had the Z36 full kit on my 14 and moved them to my 16 when the 14 was wrecked. My only two complaints, first, long bedding process, had a soft peddle for at least 1000 miles before they fully seated, and that was both when first installed on the 14, and again on the 16 due to a little bit of rust on the rotor. The other complaint that after 70K miles one pad got a bit sticky in the caliper and grooved the rotor, making a horrible groan when I braked a certain way.
I still have the full kit, but need new pads and have the rotors resurfaced. They have plenty of meat left on them too. Once they bedded, they were fantastic, they worked so well they defeated the Anti lock and would lock all four wheels on a panic stop. They were also very clean, very little brake dust on the wheels, and I got more than 70K out of the pads. Could have got more if the one pad didn't stick.
I have used EBC pads as well and they bed almost immediately, and stop just as good as the Powerstops, but they were dirty, would blacken a wheel in a week. They were the Green Stuff pads.
I was trying to remember the name of the other pads I heard about, and someone here mentioned them, the Hawk pads, which I may try out when I get the Powerstop rotors resurfaced. The OEM brakes are OK, but don't hold a candle to the Powerstops.
I still have the full kit, but need new pads and have the rotors resurfaced. They have plenty of meat left on them too. Once they bedded, they were fantastic, they worked so well they defeated the Anti lock and would lock all four wheels on a panic stop. They were also very clean, very little brake dust on the wheels, and I got more than 70K out of the pads. Could have got more if the one pad didn't stick.
I have used EBC pads as well and they bed almost immediately, and stop just as good as the Powerstops, but they were dirty, would blacken a wheel in a week. They were the Green Stuff pads.
I was trying to remember the name of the other pads I heard about, and someone here mentioned them, the Hawk pads, which I may try out when I get the Powerstop rotors resurfaced. The OEM brakes are OK, but don't hold a candle to the Powerstops.
I had EBC YellowStuffs on a previous Expedition and wasn't impressed. Dirty and horrible bedding times. Almost had a wreck thanks to them.
03-14-2019, 08:06 PM
#17
Dont know yet, but drilled and slotted are not difficult to resurface, and since they are within specs for runout, they only need to go down enough to remove the grooves on the backside of the drivers disk. The slots and hole champhers I will clean up prior to having them turned. Provided I can figure out where I put my dremel.
03-15-2019, 08:32 AM
#18
Senior Member
03-19-2019, 11:30 AM
#19
Senior Member
So few things and eventually I guess there will be a brake rant thread - I seem to have to do this occasionally.
1 - for any truck I would absolutely never condone any drilled rotor. I don't even use them or recommend them for race cars. Now before anyone says but what about the Konnessieggs _______________. Those are cast in place carbon ceramic rotors and a different animal. Note that other makers full carbon rotors are all now slotted too. But I'll get off base in a moment so I'll stop there.
2) factory OEM rotors are just fine for this vehicle - as are replacements. Now I will say I like a slotted rotor for some extreme braking but I don't think I would put them on a truck. YOu can if you want to they will help prevent glazing under high temp and pressure. But for most people even people towing every day - plain face rotor is fine. and what I intend to keep using.
3) pads - nearly any ceramic compound pad should suffice. DO NOT use any sort of race compound pad. They don't bite well while cold/cool and require some heat for them to work right. This is fine on a track when you will heat them up and keep them hot - on street use this is bad. So pass on anything like that.
Looking at rock auto today I would probably choose the raybestos truck ceramic. If you are concerned about dust then I would stay away from anything labeled a semi-metallic pad. But if you want max braking - some of the semi-metallics will give you that - and the expense of being very dusty - this also goes back to the slotted rotors - one other benefit of the rotor slot evacs the dust out from the rotor pad interface. Ceramics don't dust as much as they don't break down quite a much - which is why they also last longer.
Another myth - rotor bedding. This is true when you race a car and rebed - re heat the system. For a daily driver this is bunk. WHy you ask - well tomorrow you will drive though that rain puddle or the veichle will sit and get rained on - leaving a coating of corrosion on the rotor faces. As your first 2 brake applications grind that rust off - into the pad - and out again - you've also scrubbed that 0.002' or so of surface material off and taken any rotor bed you had away with it. so are you going to do it again? Yes the ductile iron rotors are porous - to a point. SO are your new pads - to a point. again that bed will go away often - and if you live up north with road salt - forgetaboutit.
NOW - what does happen when new rotors and pads are installed isn't so much a bedding as a resurfacing - picture the face for your rotor has waves in it and so does your pad - measured in the 0.0001's of an inch. Instead your initial scrub evens them out together - it also cleans the rotors which if new were coated with some oil to keep them from rusting on the shelf.
OH and new rotors - so yes most are indeed made in china now - as let's face it they cast cheap. But the bigger difference is adherence to the alloy spec or exceeding it (no your rotor isn't just cast iron, despite popular belief, it is a ductile iron and in some cases due to carbon content it qualifies as a steel - yes it does). The other difference is runout. Part of why the wagner or raybestos branded rotor costs more than the centric is that they are ground - checked and tested to meet the max allowed runout spec both around the rim and on the face of the rotor. OH and there's a max weight spec too. So please don't bother buying the cheapest rotors and pad you can find - for a common vehicle like the F150 - there are so many choices for just a few dollars more - they are well worth it.
Now brands. Power slot, stop tech and centric are the same people - with the same parts. Centric doesn't make OEM parts for ANYONE in the industry that I know of today. They aren't even the OEM for Kia if you want to get down that road. Now they might be OEM for people like Cheby or GEM or someone like that in the chinese market. In fact I'm sure they are. Let me put that another way - they don't make OEM parts for ANYONE that is DOT approved for sale in the US.
Raybestos, Wagner, Monroe all do - and they are the OEM's for people like Ford, GM, Mercedes, FCA, etc. For this reason I recommend these brands depending on application and for Daily driver or other use. Now if you want to talk racing your truck - well I have a few different recommendations in mind. If you really want the ultimate street pads I'd point you to Carbotech in a heatbeat but I don't know they make a pad for the F150 caliper - but they might.
I run wagner thermo-quiet on my Daily drivers at the moment - and when my F!50 needs brakes I will probably grab those Raybestos speciality truck pads. TRW is the OEM suppler of brakes to Ford for the F150 - and I forget exactly who makes their pads.
OH change out your brake fluid.
Hope this helps and give a logical view of what is in the market and what is useful to your brake system.
1 - for any truck I would absolutely never condone any drilled rotor. I don't even use them or recommend them for race cars. Now before anyone says but what about the Konnessieggs _______________. Those are cast in place carbon ceramic rotors and a different animal. Note that other makers full carbon rotors are all now slotted too. But I'll get off base in a moment so I'll stop there.
2) factory OEM rotors are just fine for this vehicle - as are replacements. Now I will say I like a slotted rotor for some extreme braking but I don't think I would put them on a truck. YOu can if you want to they will help prevent glazing under high temp and pressure. But for most people even people towing every day - plain face rotor is fine. and what I intend to keep using.
3) pads - nearly any ceramic compound pad should suffice. DO NOT use any sort of race compound pad. They don't bite well while cold/cool and require some heat for them to work right. This is fine on a track when you will heat them up and keep them hot - on street use this is bad. So pass on anything like that.
Looking at rock auto today I would probably choose the raybestos truck ceramic. If you are concerned about dust then I would stay away from anything labeled a semi-metallic pad. But if you want max braking - some of the semi-metallics will give you that - and the expense of being very dusty - this also goes back to the slotted rotors - one other benefit of the rotor slot evacs the dust out from the rotor pad interface. Ceramics don't dust as much as they don't break down quite a much - which is why they also last longer.
Another myth - rotor bedding. This is true when you race a car and rebed - re heat the system. For a daily driver this is bunk. WHy you ask - well tomorrow you will drive though that rain puddle or the veichle will sit and get rained on - leaving a coating of corrosion on the rotor faces. As your first 2 brake applications grind that rust off - into the pad - and out again - you've also scrubbed that 0.002' or so of surface material off and taken any rotor bed you had away with it. so are you going to do it again? Yes the ductile iron rotors are porous - to a point. SO are your new pads - to a point. again that bed will go away often - and if you live up north with road salt - forgetaboutit.
NOW - what does happen when new rotors and pads are installed isn't so much a bedding as a resurfacing - picture the face for your rotor has waves in it and so does your pad - measured in the 0.0001's of an inch. Instead your initial scrub evens them out together - it also cleans the rotors which if new were coated with some oil to keep them from rusting on the shelf.
OH and new rotors - so yes most are indeed made in china now - as let's face it they cast cheap. But the bigger difference is adherence to the alloy spec or exceeding it (no your rotor isn't just cast iron, despite popular belief, it is a ductile iron and in some cases due to carbon content it qualifies as a steel - yes it does). The other difference is runout. Part of why the wagner or raybestos branded rotor costs more than the centric is that they are ground - checked and tested to meet the max allowed runout spec both around the rim and on the face of the rotor. OH and there's a max weight spec too. So please don't bother buying the cheapest rotors and pad you can find - for a common vehicle like the F150 - there are so many choices for just a few dollars more - they are well worth it.
Now brands. Power slot, stop tech and centric are the same people - with the same parts. Centric doesn't make OEM parts for ANYONE in the industry that I know of today. They aren't even the OEM for Kia if you want to get down that road. Now they might be OEM for people like Cheby or GEM or someone like that in the chinese market. In fact I'm sure they are. Let me put that another way - they don't make OEM parts for ANYONE that is DOT approved for sale in the US.
Raybestos, Wagner, Monroe all do - and they are the OEM's for people like Ford, GM, Mercedes, FCA, etc. For this reason I recommend these brands depending on application and for Daily driver or other use. Now if you want to talk racing your truck - well I have a few different recommendations in mind. If you really want the ultimate street pads I'd point you to Carbotech in a heatbeat but I don't know they make a pad for the F150 caliper - but they might.
I run wagner thermo-quiet on my Daily drivers at the moment - and when my F!50 needs brakes I will probably grab those Raybestos speciality truck pads. TRW is the OEM suppler of brakes to Ford for the F150 - and I forget exactly who makes their pads.
OH change out your brake fluid.
Hope this helps and give a logical view of what is in the market and what is useful to your brake system.
The following 5 users liked this post by Napalm:
albo99 (06-19-2021),
aspade (02-09-2023),
cdiddy4224 (03-19-2019),
redhatbert (08-05-2023),
Tad1299 (08-01-2020)
03-19-2019, 12:13 PM
#20
So few things and eventually I guess there will be a brake rant thread - I seem to have to do this occasionally.
1 - for any truck I would absolutely never condone any drilled rotor. I don't even use them or recommend them for race cars. Now before anyone says but what about the Konnessieggs _______________. Those are cast in place carbon ceramic rotors and a different animal. Note that other makers full carbon rotors are all now slotted too. But I'll get off base in a moment so I'll stop there.
2) factory OEM rotors are just fine for this vehicle - as are replacements. Now I will say I like a slotted rotor for some extreme braking but I don't think I would put them on a truck. YOu can if you want to they will help prevent glazing under high temp and pressure. But for most people even people towing every day - plain face rotor is fine. and what I intend to keep using.
3) pads - nearly any ceramic compound pad should suffice. DO NOT use any sort of race compound pad. They don't bite well while cold/cool and require some heat for them to work right. This is fine on a track when you will heat them up and keep them hot - on street use this is bad. So pass on anything like that.
Looking at rock auto today I would probably choose the raybestos truck ceramic. If you are concerned about dust then I would stay away from anything labeled a semi-metallic pad. But if you want max braking - some of the semi-metallics will give you that - and the expense of being very dusty - this also goes back to the slotted rotors - one other benefit of the rotor slot evacs the dust out from the rotor pad interface. Ceramics don't dust as much as they don't break down quite a much - which is why they also last longer.
Another myth - rotor bedding. This is true when you race a car and rebed - re heat the system. For a daily driver this is bunk. WHy you ask - well tomorrow you will drive though that rain puddle or the veichle will sit and get rained on - leaving a coating of corrosion on the rotor faces. As your first 2 brake applications grind that rust off - into the pad - and out again - you've also scrubbed that 0.002' or so of surface material off and taken any rotor bed you had away with it. so are you going to do it again? Yes the ductile iron rotors are porous - to a point. SO are your new pads - to a point. again that bed will go away often - and if you live up north with road salt - forgetaboutit.
NOW - what does happen when new rotors and pads are installed isn't so much a bedding as a resurfacing - picture the face for your rotor has waves in it and so does your pad - measured in the 0.0001's of an inch. Instead your initial scrub evens them out together - it also cleans the rotors which if new were coated with some oil to keep them from rusting on the shelf.
OH and new rotors - so yes most are indeed made in china now - as let's face it they cast cheap. But the bigger difference is adherence to the alloy spec or exceeding it (no your rotor isn't just cast iron, despite popular belief, it is a ductile iron and in some cases due to carbon content it qualifies as a steel - yes it does). The other difference is runout. Part of why the wagner or raybestos branded rotor costs more than the centric is that they are ground - checked and tested to meet the max allowed runout spec both around the rim and on the face of the rotor. OH and there's a max weight spec too. So please don't bother buying the cheapest rotors and pad you can find - for a common vehicle like the F150 - there are so many choices for just a few dollars more - they are well worth it.
Now brands. Power slot, stop tech and centric are the same people - with the same parts. Centric doesn't make OEM parts for ANYONE in the industry that I know of today. They aren't even the OEM for Kia if you want to get down that road. Now they might be OEM for people like Cheby or GEM or someone like that in the chinese market. In fact I'm sure they are. Let me put that another way - they don't make OEM parts for ANYONE that is DOT approved for sale in the US.
Raybestos, Wagner, Monroe all do - and they are the OEM's for people like Ford, GM, Mercedes, FCA, etc. For this reason I recommend these brands depending on application and for Daily driver or other use. Now if you want to talk racing your truck - well I have a few different recommendations in mind. If you really want the ultimate street pads I'd point you to Carbotech in a heatbeat but I don't know they make a pad for the F150 caliper - but they might.
I run wagner thermo-quiet on my Daily drivers at the moment - and when my F!50 needs brakes I will probably grab those Raybestos speciality truck pads. TRW is the OEM suppler of brakes to Ford for the F150 - and I forget exactly who makes their pads.
OH change out your brake fluid.
Hope this helps and give a logical view of what is in the market and what is useful to your brake system.
1 - for any truck I would absolutely never condone any drilled rotor. I don't even use them or recommend them for race cars. Now before anyone says but what about the Konnessieggs _______________. Those are cast in place carbon ceramic rotors and a different animal. Note that other makers full carbon rotors are all now slotted too. But I'll get off base in a moment so I'll stop there.
2) factory OEM rotors are just fine for this vehicle - as are replacements. Now I will say I like a slotted rotor for some extreme braking but I don't think I would put them on a truck. YOu can if you want to they will help prevent glazing under high temp and pressure. But for most people even people towing every day - plain face rotor is fine. and what I intend to keep using.
3) pads - nearly any ceramic compound pad should suffice. DO NOT use any sort of race compound pad. They don't bite well while cold/cool and require some heat for them to work right. This is fine on a track when you will heat them up and keep them hot - on street use this is bad. So pass on anything like that.
Looking at rock auto today I would probably choose the raybestos truck ceramic. If you are concerned about dust then I would stay away from anything labeled a semi-metallic pad. But if you want max braking - some of the semi-metallics will give you that - and the expense of being very dusty - this also goes back to the slotted rotors - one other benefit of the rotor slot evacs the dust out from the rotor pad interface. Ceramics don't dust as much as they don't break down quite a much - which is why they also last longer.
Another myth - rotor bedding. This is true when you race a car and rebed - re heat the system. For a daily driver this is bunk. WHy you ask - well tomorrow you will drive though that rain puddle or the veichle will sit and get rained on - leaving a coating of corrosion on the rotor faces. As your first 2 brake applications grind that rust off - into the pad - and out again - you've also scrubbed that 0.002' or so of surface material off and taken any rotor bed you had away with it. so are you going to do it again? Yes the ductile iron rotors are porous - to a point. SO are your new pads - to a point. again that bed will go away often - and if you live up north with road salt - forgetaboutit.
NOW - what does happen when new rotors and pads are installed isn't so much a bedding as a resurfacing - picture the face for your rotor has waves in it and so does your pad - measured in the 0.0001's of an inch. Instead your initial scrub evens them out together - it also cleans the rotors which if new were coated with some oil to keep them from rusting on the shelf.
OH and new rotors - so yes most are indeed made in china now - as let's face it they cast cheap. But the bigger difference is adherence to the alloy spec or exceeding it (no your rotor isn't just cast iron, despite popular belief, it is a ductile iron and in some cases due to carbon content it qualifies as a steel - yes it does). The other difference is runout. Part of why the wagner or raybestos branded rotor costs more than the centric is that they are ground - checked and tested to meet the max allowed runout spec both around the rim and on the face of the rotor. OH and there's a max weight spec too. So please don't bother buying the cheapest rotors and pad you can find - for a common vehicle like the F150 - there are so many choices for just a few dollars more - they are well worth it.
Now brands. Power slot, stop tech and centric are the same people - with the same parts. Centric doesn't make OEM parts for ANYONE in the industry that I know of today. They aren't even the OEM for Kia if you want to get down that road. Now they might be OEM for people like Cheby or GEM or someone like that in the chinese market. In fact I'm sure they are. Let me put that another way - they don't make OEM parts for ANYONE that is DOT approved for sale in the US.
Raybestos, Wagner, Monroe all do - and they are the OEM's for people like Ford, GM, Mercedes, FCA, etc. For this reason I recommend these brands depending on application and for Daily driver or other use. Now if you want to talk racing your truck - well I have a few different recommendations in mind. If you really want the ultimate street pads I'd point you to Carbotech in a heatbeat but I don't know they make a pad for the F150 caliper - but they might.
I run wagner thermo-quiet on my Daily drivers at the moment - and when my F!50 needs brakes I will probably grab those Raybestos speciality truck pads. TRW is the OEM suppler of brakes to Ford for the F150 - and I forget exactly who makes their pads.
OH change out your brake fluid.
Hope this helps and give a logical view of what is in the market and what is useful to your brake system.