All this. Perfect example, Method race wheels, very good wheels, stand up to lots of abuse during race conditions too - any guesses where they're made?


Best thing to do for batteries (as all the above is true) is look for the ones offering the best warranty, they're all made to a price point, though the long lasting quality batteries of 15, 20 years ago, no longer exist, there are still better than others out there. The warranty is how long they think their product will last at least until.

 

Indeed but I'm also not going to spend a 30-50% premium for some specific name brand like Odyssey. and I'm not going to buy a battery from Jim bobs spare parts truck.

so yes look at the warranty and do a little research but don't go all for a more expensive battery ( I suppose here I should say significantly more) just for a extra year of warranty.

Also be aware of who your buying from if you can be. true of all things including brake pads.

 

I bought my Diehard Platinum AGM from Advance.
Why?
I had a $30 coupon.

 

I was told the same thing by Costco, which means Mr battery thief above is most likely lying about his awesome "hack" to never buy a battery again

 

Well, I had to use my portable jump pack today so it was definitely time. I have a 2018 XLT I bought June 2018 with the H6 battery and I replaced it with an H8/Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM 850CCA BCI Group 49 Heavy Duty Battery, and it fit like a charm with a little room to spare (they changed the battery tray after 2015 some time.

Was $215 not including tax at Batteries Plus. 4 Year Free Replacement, was close to my house, didn't have to lug through Costco and install myself (not that it is hard, it was just easy and quick, didn't have to return the core, etc.), and they carry odd batteries, like the batteries my Aimpoint PROs take, so I much prefer to support them over WalMart and Costco. Coupons wouldn't work at the auto places and the H7s would have been more expensive. So hopefully I get at least almost 5 years again out of this one.

I'll change the battery type in Forscan and do a reset tomorrow. Thanks for the read, and glad to see most of us think scamming retailers is reprehensible. Ballin' on a budget if you're worried about the cost of a battery on a 40+k truck.

 

I bought an Odyssey battery. Have used them on boats and my motorcycles and they are worth the premium you pay. Mine was $256 at FCP Euro.

 

I've got nearly 4 years on the original AGM from Ford in my 2019. I'll just get the same one when needed. As far as I'm concerned, any battery without a flaw is only as good as being well maintained if no abnormal parasitic draw exists.

 

Going on 6 years for my original battery.

 

The OEM battery in my van lasted 7 years. The OEM battery in my pickup lasted 9 years. I wonder if the OEM Ford battery is the same as the over-the-counter MotorCraft.

I had an Optima YellowTop last 6 years. I had an Optima RedTop last 20 months. The same symptom. One day it needs a jump start. Jump start to go to work. Then it needs a jump every time I start the car. Jump start to go home. Jump start to go buy fuel. 10 minutes later, jump start to leave the gas station. Even a 10 amp charger on repair mode could not fix the battery.

I used to buy whatever house brand battery from the auto parts stores, on sale and with a coupon. Essentially, the cheapest battery I could find. All failed within the warranty period. Then I got a warranty replacement. Which means that I bought a 36 months battery, it lasted 25 months, then they prorated it to discount the next cheap battery.

My recollection is that InterState and Sears batteries lasted beyond the warranty. Then there was that fiasco where Exide and Sears were cleaning up old batteries and reselling as new batteries.

 

Wife's 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee still running original battery. Not sure of brand but I guess I should check it!