Another XLT LED Question - OEM LED vs Bulbs
06-09-2017, 08:32 AM
#21
I bought these and installed them. I could not be happier with them. They are the best I've had so far. Pics and info on my build link below.
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/my-ne...2/#post5335337
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/my-ne...2/#post5335337
06-09-2017, 09:17 AM
#22
Senior Member
The type of aftermarket LED matters a LOT! The first pair I bought had no cutoff line and blinded everyone in a 30 mile radius, after a lot of reading through this forum I gave another set a try and the difference is night and day. Perfect cutoff line and the brightness is pure white.
06-09-2017, 09:34 AM
#23
Small Member
The type of aftermarket LED matters a LOT! The first pair I bought had no cutoff line and blinded everyone in a 30 mile radius, after a lot of reading through this forum I gave another set a try and the difference is night and day. Perfect cutoff line and the brightness is pure white.
Mine have a clear cut off. My wife pointed it out the one night, she said: "You aimed the lights perfectly because they don't shine over the trunk of the cars in front of us."
It was an observation that was out of her norm, but very true. I nice crisp line that most of the light does not go above.
06-09-2017, 09:35 AM
#24
Small Member
I've never ran aftermarket LED bulbs but I've had a set of OEM LED headlights w/ an RR harness in my truck for a year now. The output of the OEM LED's is incredible compared to the stock halogens. Since I plan on owning this truck for many years the OEM LED's were a wise investment to me. Nothing against aftermarket LED bulbs I just prefer to use OEM if the option is there.
06-09-2017, 10:07 AM
#25
Senior Member
06-09-2017, 11:16 AM
#26
Senior Member
06-09-2017, 01:13 PM
#27
I also forgot to mention, the LED's defiantly need to be in a projector housing for the best performance. The light will flood and the headlamp will not throw the beam far enough. I know because I have done it both ways, with (anzo's) and without (factory halogen lamp assembly) a projector.
As far as installation, If you do decide to add them to your factory halogen lamps, you do not need to remove the the headlamp. You can access the rear of the housing through the wheel liner. You will need to turn your wheel to lock to access them. There are 3, 5.5 mm screws, and a plastic twist plug.
As far as installation, If you do decide to add them to your factory halogen lamps, you do not need to remove the the headlamp. You can access the rear of the housing through the wheel liner. You will need to turn your wheel to lock to access them. There are 3, 5.5 mm screws, and a plastic twist plug.
Last edited by 2k12 FX2; 06-09-2017 at 01:15 PM.
06-09-2017, 01:28 PM
#28
Senior Member
I also forgot to mention, the LED's defiantly need to be in a projector housing for the best performance. The light will flood and the headlamp will not throw the beam far enough. I know because I have done it both ways, with (anzo's) and without (factory halogen lamp assembly) a projector.
As far as installation, If you do decide to add them to your factory halogen lamps, you do not need to remove the the headlamp. You can access the rear of the housing through the wheel liner. You will need to turn your wheel to lock to access them. There are 3, 5.5 mm screws, and a plastic twist plug.
As far as installation, If you do decide to add them to your factory halogen lamps, you do not need to remove the the headlamp. You can access the rear of the housing through the wheel liner. You will need to turn your wheel to lock to access them. There are 3, 5.5 mm screws, and a plastic twist plug.
06-09-2017, 01:34 PM
#29
Senior Member
Same here. If you are adding LED's it's much better to remove the headlight so you can make sure the cables and ballast are secured
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