Air in brake line problem after doing rotors/pads
07-04-2017, 01:08 PM
#1
Air in brake line problem after doing rotors/pads
So this weekend I did my front rotors and pads and after finishing the job I got in my truck and my brake pedal went down to the floor... I was at a loss for why this was as all I did was swap the rotors/pads and used my harbor freight caliper tool to push the caliper boots (is that what you call them?) back so that I could get the calipers back on.
After figuring that I would have to bleed the brakes I went and did that with my Griots one man bleeder pump and initially pulled what seemed like a ton of air out when I did the passenger rear. The Griots bleeder doesn't seem to suck any air in from the nipple but it seemed like I couldn't pull fluid without there being some air in it. My question is where is this all coming from?
I ended up redoing the bleed the following day and it made the pedal a little better but today upon going on a trip to Lowes, I noticed I can still push my pedal all the way to floor if I really get on it.
The only thing I wonder is when I pushed the calipers boots back, I would do one of the two which would result in the one not yet done getting pushed a bit further out before I would get to that to push that one in. Did I do that wrong?
What is going on, it should really be simple right?
I'll note this is on a 2015 F150 Platinum.
After figuring that I would have to bleed the brakes I went and did that with my Griots one man bleeder pump and initially pulled what seemed like a ton of air out when I did the passenger rear. The Griots bleeder doesn't seem to suck any air in from the nipple but it seemed like I couldn't pull fluid without there being some air in it. My question is where is this all coming from?
I ended up redoing the bleed the following day and it made the pedal a little better but today upon going on a trip to Lowes, I noticed I can still push my pedal all the way to floor if I really get on it.
The only thing I wonder is when I pushed the calipers boots back, I would do one of the two which would result in the one not yet done getting pushed a bit further out before I would get to that to push that one in. Did I do that wrong?
What is going on, it should really be simple right?
I'll note this is on a 2015 F150 Platinum.
07-04-2017, 01:12 PM
#2
The brake pedal went to the floor because the caliper tool pushed the piston into the caliper. When you pushed the brake pedal all you were doing was pushing the new pad back out against the rotor.
Had you pumped the pedal 2 to 3 times, that would have been all that was necessary. No need to bleed the brakes.
Had you pumped the pedal 2 to 3 times, that would have been all that was necessary. No need to bleed the brakes.
07-04-2017, 01:19 PM
#3
Not true, I initially did pump them to firm it up. But the pedal continued to go to the floor. It never firmed up like it has on every other brake job I've done on every vehicle I've owned.
07-04-2017, 01:50 PM
#4
When you pushed the piston back into the caliper did you open the bleeder screw?
07-04-2017, 01:51 PM
#5
07-04-2017, 01:57 PM
#6
just asking (unrelated to the air in the system)...
is it possible you have/had the inboard brake pads installed on the incorrect side of the vehicle as they are side specific. The outboard pads are not side specific.
is it possible you have/had the inboard brake pads installed on the incorrect side of the vehicle as they are side specific. The outboard pads are not side specific.
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07-04-2017, 02:44 PM
#8
Senior Member
So this weekend I did my front rotors and pads and after finishing the job I got in my truck and my brake pedal went down to the floor... I was at a loss for why this was as all I did was swap the rotors/pads and used my harbor freight caliper tool to push the caliper boots (is that what you call them?) back so that I could get the calipers back on.
After figuring that I would have to bleed the brakes I went and did that with my Griots one man bleeder pump and initially pulled what seemed like a ton of air out when I did the passenger rear. The Griots bleeder doesn't seem to suck any air in from the nipple but it seemed like I couldn't pull fluid without there being some air in it. My question is where is this all coming from?
I ended up redoing the bleed the following day and it made the pedal a little better but today upon going on a trip to Lowes, I noticed I can still push my pedal all the way to floor if I really get on it.
The only thing I wonder is when I pushed the calipers boots back, I would do one of the two which would result in the one not yet done getting pushed a bit further out before I would get to that to push that one in. Did I do that wrong?
What is going on, it should really be simple right?
I'll note this is on a 2015 F150 Platinum.
After figuring that I would have to bleed the brakes I went and did that with my Griots one man bleeder pump and initially pulled what seemed like a ton of air out when I did the passenger rear. The Griots bleeder doesn't seem to suck any air in from the nipple but it seemed like I couldn't pull fluid without there being some air in it. My question is where is this all coming from?
I ended up redoing the bleed the following day and it made the pedal a little better but today upon going on a trip to Lowes, I noticed I can still push my pedal all the way to floor if I really get on it.
The only thing I wonder is when I pushed the calipers boots back, I would do one of the two which would result in the one not yet done getting pushed a bit further out before I would get to that to push that one in. Did I do that wrong?
What is going on, it should really be simple right?
I'll note this is on a 2015 F150 Platinum.
On all vehicles with antilock brakes it is recommended to open the bleeder at the wheel being serviced while compressing the bleeder. Yes it can be messy but will eliminate debris from being pushed into the master cylinder or very expensive antilock unit. And yes it's important to keep the reservoir full during these procedures.
Dealerships and some aftermarket ECM scanners have programs that jog the solenoids in the antilock unit while the tech simultaneously bleeds air from the system.
By bleeding at the wheel while compressing the piston these headaches and cost can usually be avoided.
I'm curious to know what you find to be your problem. Good luck and have a happy 4th.
07-04-2017, 02:47 PM
#9
I just re-bled everything again with my neighbor pressing the brake pedal. It seems like tons of air was coming out of the nipple and no matter how many times we cycled I would get air bubbles every time I opened the bleeder screw. When I was buying fluid a couple days ago the NAPA guy mentioned having to cycle the abs module as a possiblity which is something the shade tree guy cannot do. I can drive it, and it does brake when I get on the pedal but I can still get it to travel all the way down yet. I think I will be trying to be first in line at the dealer tomorrow.... So frustrating.
07-04-2017, 03:24 PM
#10
Gone Golfin
iTrader: (3)
When I replaced the rotors and pads (Stop Tech) we (my bud the mechanic and myself) did nothing but carefully remove and replace the rotors and pads. Pistons were pushed back only enough to get the new pads in place. No bleeding, no pedal pumping, nothing. Granted the pads we took off were still relatively new. (4500 mi.)
When I asked my bud if we needed to bleed the brakes he said we shouldn't need to and shouldn't unless there was a problem with the pedal. I'll admit I was a bit confused.... he did nothing special but maintain everything as it was when we pulled everything off and then back together.
Hope you find a resolution.
When I asked my bud if we needed to bleed the brakes he said we shouldn't need to and shouldn't unless there was a problem with the pedal. I'll admit I was a bit confused.... he did nothing special but maintain everything as it was when we pulled everything off and then back together.
Hope you find a resolution.