Added Active Park Assist on 2015 Lariat 502A
#251
Senior Member
I think I got the right stuff was right at $100 delivered Painted the bezels already.
#252
Senior Member
Seems like every photo I post lately I have to rotate 360 degrees to show up in the post straight even if the pic is already straight anyone else having the same issue I’m on a MacBook Pro?
#253
Senior Member
#254
Senior Member
I now reading this Thread again 3 times and I guess it looks like they are both mounted to the front driver and passenger sides so what one goes where “L” stand for left side? “N” stands for knucklehead?
#255
Yes, the harnesses are for the driver's side and the passenger's side. The sensors and bezels mount just behind the trim in the front fender in front of the door. See the picts in the very first post.
The two harnesses are exactly the same, except for the lowest mounting grommet. I actually have them on the "wrong" side - and used electrical tape to re-orient the bottom grommet....
But, to get it right, N goes on the driver's side. PC goes on the passenger side.
The two harnesses are exactly the same, except for the lowest mounting grommet. I actually have them on the "wrong" side - and used electrical tape to re-orient the bottom grommet....
But, to get it right, N goes on the driver's side. PC goes on the passenger side.
The following users liked this post:
caneman88 (05-05-2017)
#256
Senior Member
Yes, the harnesses are for the driver's side and the passenger's side. The sensors and bezels mount just behind the trim in the front fender in front of the door. See the picts in the very first post.
The two harnesses are exactly the same, except for the lowest mounting grommet. I actually have them on the "wrong" side - and used electrical tape to re-orient the bottom grommet....
But, to get it right, N goes on the driver's side. PC goes on the passenger side.
The two harnesses are exactly the same, except for the lowest mounting grommet. I actually have them on the "wrong" side - and used electrical tape to re-orient the bottom grommet....
But, to get it right, N goes on the driver's side. PC goes on the passenger side.
#257
Yup. When you unpackage them, I believe the sticker has the N and P... If you look at the harnesses, they are exactly the same - except for that last push pin which is reversed. You can always unwind the tape that holds them to the harness and switch them around if you put them on the wrong sides... the plugs are exactly the same on both ends and the upper 3 push pins are oriented the same as well.
The following users liked this post:
caneman88 (05-06-2017)
#258
Senior Member
All parts painted I installed the new switch today now the hard part tomorrow drilling holes in my truck
#259
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I have APA! First and foremost, Thank you(!!) to iridium and others who posted such great information!
Here are a couple of notes:
You do not have to fully remove either of the wheel well liners. You also do not have to remove the the wheels.
What you do have to do is:
1. Remove the pin underneath the fender trim behind the wheel.
2. Remove the 2 screws that are now visible behind the fender trim
3. Remove the first screw tracing up the inside of the fender.
4. Remove the 2 push pins first directly behind the wheel and also above the wheel in the back of the liner.
5. Pull the liner out of the track and expose enough of the area behind to get at the wires and plug.
On the passenger side, the plug is already in the fender. You just have to be able to reach in and plug in the harness and then push the pins into the holes shown in the first post.
On the driver's side, my plug was accessed inside the engine bay just behind the airbox. It was taped to another harness. I carefully cut the tape and ran the plug into the space between the fender and the liner. I had to seat the plug into the hole that was pre-drilled in the fender. I plugged the harness in and ran it down inside the fender.
Make sure you use the DC harness on the driver's side and the PC on the passenger side!
As for the holes, see the pictures for the measurements. I used a paper tape to deal with the contours.
I drilled a small pilot hole with a 1/8" bit and then went with the hole saw. The metal is stupidly thin and the cut was quick and about perfect. I used a round file to smooth off the edges, primed and then laid down a coat of the base for the color of my truck. It was 82 degrees today, so I gave the paint some time to set up before moving on.
Sorry gebo, but your sensor bezels are upside down. This is critical to get right so that your bezels sit flush with the contour and so that your sensors are level. The key is to have the opening where the sensor plugs into the bezel pointed straight down - thus your short locating ribs are pointed at 6 o'clock. Make your marks relative to this position and you will be golden. I used a flat file and filed a little bit and tested, filed, tested, rinsed and repeated until the bezel went in snugly.
When inserting the bezel, insert the sensor into the back of the bezel (not fully) and introduce it into the hole on an angle. Push the bezel in and then push the sensor fully into the bezel once the bezel has locked into position. Plug the harness into the sensor and button things back up! I used some clear silicone around the edges of the bezel, wetting my finger to smooth it off and then wiped up the excess. This is aluminum of course, but I figured it was cheap insurance nonetheless...
APA works like a freaking champ - even in the dead of night. I was amazed how perfectly it maneuvered my truck into a spot. The wheel snaps pretty quickly, but it parked the truck perfectly within 6" of the curb! I was amazed!
I have a few additional pictures to those posted and 2 videos as well that I have to upload to youboob. Once I do that, I will update this thread and link to the vids.
As Edd China would say, "Job done!"
Here are a couple of notes:
You do not have to fully remove either of the wheel well liners. You also do not have to remove the the wheels.
What you do have to do is:
1. Remove the pin underneath the fender trim behind the wheel.
2. Remove the 2 screws that are now visible behind the fender trim
3. Remove the first screw tracing up the inside of the fender.
4. Remove the 2 push pins first directly behind the wheel and also above the wheel in the back of the liner.
5. Pull the liner out of the track and expose enough of the area behind to get at the wires and plug.
On the passenger side, the plug is already in the fender. You just have to be able to reach in and plug in the harness and then push the pins into the holes shown in the first post.
On the driver's side, my plug was accessed inside the engine bay just behind the airbox. It was taped to another harness. I carefully cut the tape and ran the plug into the space between the fender and the liner. I had to seat the plug into the hole that was pre-drilled in the fender. I plugged the harness in and ran it down inside the fender.
Make sure you use the DC harness on the driver's side and the PC on the passenger side!
As for the holes, see the pictures for the measurements. I used a paper tape to deal with the contours.
I drilled a small pilot hole with a 1/8" bit and then went with the hole saw. The metal is stupidly thin and the cut was quick and about perfect. I used a round file to smooth off the edges, primed and then laid down a coat of the base for the color of my truck. It was 82 degrees today, so I gave the paint some time to set up before moving on.
Sorry gebo, but your sensor bezels are upside down. This is critical to get right so that your bezels sit flush with the contour and so that your sensors are level. The key is to have the opening where the sensor plugs into the bezel pointed straight down - thus your short locating ribs are pointed at 6 o'clock. Make your marks relative to this position and you will be golden. I used a flat file and filed a little bit and tested, filed, tested, rinsed and repeated until the bezel went in snugly.
When inserting the bezel, insert the sensor into the back of the bezel (not fully) and introduce it into the hole on an angle. Push the bezel in and then push the sensor fully into the bezel once the bezel has locked into position. Plug the harness into the sensor and button things back up! I used some clear silicone around the edges of the bezel, wetting my finger to smooth it off and then wiped up the excess. This is aluminum of course, but I figured it was cheap insurance nonetheless...
APA works like a freaking champ - even in the dead of night. I was amazed how perfectly it maneuvered my truck into a spot. The wheel snaps pretty quickly, but it parked the truck perfectly within 6" of the curb! I was amazed!
I have a few additional pictures to those posted and 2 videos as well that I have to upload to youboob. Once I do that, I will update this thread and link to the vids.
As Edd China would say, "Job done!"
Hole location - looks to be 7.375" down and 1.25" over from the wheel lip moulding?
#260
A touch more than 1.25. More like 1 9/32 - 1 5/16
One more thing, I use a piece of cardboard in the gap between the door and fender to catch over-spray when I painted the raw metal after cutting the hole and filing out for the locating ribs... it caught a fair amount and I was glad I did it.
One more thing, I use a piece of cardboard in the gap between the door and fender to catch over-spray when I painted the raw metal after cutting the hole and filing out for the locating ribs... it caught a fair amount and I was glad I did it.