Added Active Park Assist on 2015 Lariat 502A
04-25-2017, 10:25 PM
#241
Hole saw
The aluminum will cut like butter, just as gebo21 said. It is quite thin.
I plan to drill a small pilot hole after using a countersink to make the indentation on the center spot and then swap to the hole saw.
Rain is supposed to let up tomorrow so I will pull the passenger liner and run the harness... all that will be left is the holes! Sucks that I work as many hours - get's in the way of playing with my toys!
The aluminum will cut like butter, just as gebo21 said. It is quite thin.
I plan to drill a small pilot hole after using a countersink to make the indentation on the center spot and then swap to the hole saw.
Rain is supposed to let up tomorrow so I will pull the passenger liner and run the harness... all that will be left is the holes! Sucks that I work as many hours - get's in the way of playing with my toys!
04-27-2017, 09:53 PM
#242
I have APA! First and foremost, Thank you(!!) to iridium and others who posted such great information!
Here are a couple of notes:
You do not have to fully remove either of the wheel well liners. You also do not have to remove the the wheels.
What you do have to do is:
1. Remove the pin underneath the fender trim behind the wheel.
2. Remove the 2 screws that are now visible behind the fender trim
3. Remove the first screw tracing up the inside of the fender.
4. Remove the 2 push pins first directly behind the wheel and also above the wheel in the back of the liner.
5. Pull the liner out of the track and expose enough of the area behind to get at the wires and plug.
On the passenger side, the plug is already in the fender. You just have to be able to reach in and plug in the harness and then push the pins into the holes shown in the first post.
On the driver's side, my plug was accessed inside the engine bay just behind the airbox. It was taped to another harness. I carefully cut the tape and ran the plug into the space between the fender and the liner. I had to seat the plug into the hole that was pre-drilled in the fender. I plugged the harness in and ran it down inside the fender.
Make sure you use the DC harness on the driver's side and the PC on the passenger side!
As for the holes, see the pictures for the measurements. I used a paper tape to deal with the contours.
I drilled a small pilot hole with a 1/8" bit and then went with the hole saw. The metal is stupidly thin and the cut was quick and about perfect. I used a round file to smooth off the edges, primed and then laid down a coat of the base for the color of my truck. It was 82 degrees today, so I gave the paint some time to set up before moving on.
Sorry gebo, but your sensor bezels are upside down.
This is critical to get right so that your bezels sit flush with the contour and so that your sensors are level. The key is to have the opening where the sensor plugs into the bezel pointed straight down - thus your short locating ribs are pointed at 6 o'clock. Make your marks relative to this position and you will be golden. I used a flat file and filed a little bit and tested, filed, tested, rinsed and repeated until the bezel went in snugly.
When inserting the bezel, insert the sensor into the back of the bezel (not fully) and introduce it into the hole on an angle. Push the bezel in and then push the sensor fully into the bezel once the bezel has locked into position. Plug the harness into the sensor and button things back up! I used some clear silicone around the edges of the bezel, wetting my finger to smooth it off and then wiped up the excess. This is aluminum of course, but I figured it was cheap insurance nonetheless...
APA works like a freaking champ - even in the dead of night. I was amazed how perfectly it maneuvered my truck into a spot. The wheel snaps pretty quickly, but it parked the truck perfectly within 6" of the curb! I was amazed!
I have a few additional pictures to those posted and 2 videos as well that I have to upload to youboob. Once I do that, I will update this thread and link to the vids.
As Edd China would say, "Job done!"
Here are a couple of notes:
You do not have to fully remove either of the wheel well liners. You also do not have to remove the the wheels.
What you do have to do is:
1. Remove the pin underneath the fender trim behind the wheel.
2. Remove the 2 screws that are now visible behind the fender trim
3. Remove the first screw tracing up the inside of the fender.
4. Remove the 2 push pins first directly behind the wheel and also above the wheel in the back of the liner.
5. Pull the liner out of the track and expose enough of the area behind to get at the wires and plug.
On the passenger side, the plug is already in the fender. You just have to be able to reach in and plug in the harness and then push the pins into the holes shown in the first post.
On the driver's side, my plug was accessed inside the engine bay just behind the airbox. It was taped to another harness. I carefully cut the tape and ran the plug into the space between the fender and the liner. I had to seat the plug into the hole that was pre-drilled in the fender. I plugged the harness in and ran it down inside the fender.
Make sure you use the DC harness on the driver's side and the PC on the passenger side!
As for the holes, see the pictures for the measurements. I used a paper tape to deal with the contours.
I drilled a small pilot hole with a 1/8" bit and then went with the hole saw. The metal is stupidly thin and the cut was quick and about perfect. I used a round file to smooth off the edges, primed and then laid down a coat of the base for the color of my truck. It was 82 degrees today, so I gave the paint some time to set up before moving on.
Sorry gebo, but your sensor bezels are upside down.
This is critical to get right so that your bezels sit flush with the contour and so that your sensors are level. The key is to have the opening where the sensor plugs into the bezel pointed straight down - thus your short locating ribs are pointed at 6 o'clock. Make your marks relative to this position and you will be golden. I used a flat file and filed a little bit and tested, filed, tested, rinsed and repeated until the bezel went in snugly.When inserting the bezel, insert the sensor into the back of the bezel (not fully) and introduce it into the hole on an angle. Push the bezel in and then push the sensor fully into the bezel once the bezel has locked into position. Plug the harness into the sensor and button things back up! I used some clear silicone around the edges of the bezel, wetting my finger to smooth it off and then wiped up the excess. This is aluminum of course, but I figured it was cheap insurance nonetheless...
APA works like a freaking champ - even in the dead of night. I was amazed how perfectly it maneuvered my truck into a spot. The wheel snaps pretty quickly, but it parked the truck perfectly within 6" of the curb! I was amazed!
I have a few additional pictures to those posted and 2 videos as well that I have to upload to youboob. Once I do that, I will update this thread and link to the vids.
As Edd China would say, "Job done!"
04-27-2017, 11:00 PM
#243
The Source
Nice job guys... just want to give you some as-built corrections from the first post.
IPC: First post says to use a 6... this is a binary 4 and 2 (0110) enabling two options in the IPC... Active Park Assist Chimes and Auto High Beams... If you have Auto High Beams use the 6... if not it should actually be a 4.
SODL/SODR: Under SODL/SODR... The system does not rely on BLIS. The as-built change is correct and tells the SODL/SODR the vehicle has park assist. This is because when Active Park Assist is in use it disables BLIS. This is because it interferes and also Disables the Cross Traffic Alert (CTA) warnings during active park assist maneuvers. Your truck does not need to have BLIS to add active park assist.
There is one last change that is missing... which is telling the BCM (Body Control Module) that your truck now has active park assist... if you have rear bumper sensors, it is possible this setting may already be enabled... 726-46-02: xxxx xxx1 xxxx
Keep up the good work guys!
I've been working with Livinitup to get a full 10-12 park assist sensor system working on his truck with flank guard, perpendicular, etc... like the 2017 Fusion/Explorer have.
I actually added perpendicular, park out assist, and flank guard to my 2014 Fusion via software programming and some extra wiring: http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=6712
IPC: First post says to use a 6... this is a binary 4 and 2 (0110) enabling two options in the IPC... Active Park Assist Chimes and Auto High Beams... If you have Auto High Beams use the 6... if not it should actually be a 4.
SODL/SODR: Under SODL/SODR... The system does not rely on BLIS. The as-built change is correct and tells the SODL/SODR the vehicle has park assist. This is because when Active Park Assist is in use it disables BLIS. This is because it interferes and also Disables the Cross Traffic Alert (CTA) warnings during active park assist maneuvers. Your truck does not need to have BLIS to add active park assist.
There is one last change that is missing... which is telling the BCM (Body Control Module) that your truck now has active park assist... if you have rear bumper sensors, it is possible this setting may already be enabled... 726-46-02: xxxx xxx1 xxxx
Keep up the good work guys!
I've been working with Livinitup to get a full 10-12 park assist sensor system working on his truck with flank guard, perpendicular, etc... like the 2017 Fusion/Explorer have.
I actually added perpendicular, park out assist, and flank guard to my 2014 Fusion via software programming and some extra wiring: http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=6712
04-28-2017, 06:35 AM
#245
Nice job guys... just want to give you some as-built corrections from the first post.
IPC: First post says to use a 6... this is a binary 4 and 2 (0110) enabling two options in the IPC... Active Park Assist Chimes and Auto High Beams... If you have Auto High Beams use the 6... if not it should actually be a 4.
SODL/SODR: Under SODL/SODR... The system does not rely on BLIS. The as-built change is correct and tells the SODL/SODR the vehicle has park assist. This is because when Active Park Assist is in use it disables BLIS. This is because it interferes and also Disables the Cross Traffic Alert (CTA) warnings during active park assist maneuvers. Your truck does not need to have BLIS to add active park assist.
There is one last change that is missing... which is telling the BCM (Body Control Module) that your truck now has active park assist... if you have rear bumper sensors, it is possible this setting may already be enabled... 726-46-02: xxxx xxx1 xxxx
Keep up the good work guys!
I've been working with Livinitup to get a full 10-12 park assist sensor system working on his truck with flank guard, perpendicular, etc... like the 2017 Fusion/Explorer have.
I actually added perpendicular, park out assist, and flank guard to my 2014 Fusion via software programming and some extra wiring: http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=6712
IPC: First post says to use a 6... this is a binary 4 and 2 (0110) enabling two options in the IPC... Active Park Assist Chimes and Auto High Beams... If you have Auto High Beams use the 6... if not it should actually be a 4.
SODL/SODR: Under SODL/SODR... The system does not rely on BLIS. The as-built change is correct and tells the SODL/SODR the vehicle has park assist. This is because when Active Park Assist is in use it disables BLIS. This is because it interferes and also Disables the Cross Traffic Alert (CTA) warnings during active park assist maneuvers. Your truck does not need to have BLIS to add active park assist.
There is one last change that is missing... which is telling the BCM (Body Control Module) that your truck now has active park assist... if you have rear bumper sensors, it is possible this setting may already be enabled... 726-46-02: xxxx xxx1 xxxx
Keep up the good work guys!
I've been working with Livinitup to get a full 10-12 park assist sensor system working on his truck with flank guard, perpendicular, etc... like the 2017 Fusion/Explorer have.
I actually added perpendicular, park out assist, and flank guard to my 2014 Fusion via software programming and some extra wiring: http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=6712
I will confirm the BCM value tonight and report back.
As for SODL/SODR, are you saying the change in iridium's post is not needed? Sorry, a bit confused on your explanation.
It would be great to have the full park out capability!
04-28-2017, 06:36 AM
#246
04-28-2017, 09:34 AM
#247
The Source
Originally Posted by jwanck11
As for SODL/SODR, are you saying the change in iridium's post is not needed? Sorry, a bit confused on your explanation.
The following users liked this post:
jwanck11 (04-28-2017)
04-28-2017, 11:30 AM
#248
Got'cha - thank you!
05-01-2017, 10:09 PM
#250
Senior Member
I have APA! First and foremost, Thank you(!!) to iridium and others who posted such great information!
Here are a couple of notes:
You do not have to fully remove either of the wheel well liners. You also do not have to remove the the wheels.
What you do have to do is:
1. Remove the pin underneath the fender trim behind the wheel.
2. Remove the 2 screws that are now visible behind the fender trim
3. Remove the first screw tracing up the inside of the fender.
4. Remove the 2 push pins first directly behind the wheel and also above the wheel in the back of the liner.
5. Pull the liner out of the track and expose enough of the area behind to get at the wires and plug.
On the passenger side, the plug is already in the fender. You just have to be able to reach in and plug in the harness and then push the pins into the holes shown in the first post.
On the driver's side, my plug was accessed inside the engine bay just behind the airbox. It was taped to another harness. I carefully cut the tape and ran the plug into the space between the fender and the liner. I had to seat the plug into the hole that was pre-drilled in the fender. I plugged the harness in and ran it down inside the fender.
Make sure you use the DC harness on the driver's side and the PC on the passenger side!
As for the holes, see the pictures for the measurements. I used a paper tape to deal with the contours.
I drilled a small pilot hole with a 1/8" bit and then went with the hole saw. The metal is stupidly thin and the cut was quick and about perfect. I used a round file to smooth off the edges, primed and then laid down a coat of the base for the color of my truck. It was 82 degrees today, so I gave the paint some time to set up before moving on.
Sorry gebo, but your sensor bezels are upside down. This is critical to get right so that your bezels sit flush with the contour and so that your sensors are level. The key is to have the opening where the sensor plugs into the bezel pointed straight down - thus your short locating ribs are pointed at 6 o'clock. Make your marks relative to this position and you will be golden. I used a flat file and filed a little bit and tested, filed, tested, rinsed and repeated until the bezel went in snugly.
When inserting the bezel, insert the sensor into the back of the bezel (not fully) and introduce it into the hole on an angle. Push the bezel in and then push the sensor fully into the bezel once the bezel has locked into position. Plug the harness into the sensor and button things back up! I used some clear silicone around the edges of the bezel, wetting my finger to smooth it off and then wiped up the excess. This is aluminum of course, but I figured it was cheap insurance nonetheless...
APA works like a freaking champ - even in the dead of night. I was amazed how perfectly it maneuvered my truck into a spot. The wheel snaps pretty quickly, but it parked the truck perfectly within 6" of the curb! I was amazed!
I have a few additional pictures to those posted and 2 videos as well that I have to upload to youboob. Once I do that, I will update this thread and link to the vids.
As Edd China would say, "Job done!"
Here are a couple of notes:
You do not have to fully remove either of the wheel well liners. You also do not have to remove the the wheels.
What you do have to do is:
1. Remove the pin underneath the fender trim behind the wheel.
2. Remove the 2 screws that are now visible behind the fender trim
3. Remove the first screw tracing up the inside of the fender.
4. Remove the 2 push pins first directly behind the wheel and also above the wheel in the back of the liner.
5. Pull the liner out of the track and expose enough of the area behind to get at the wires and plug.
On the passenger side, the plug is already in the fender. You just have to be able to reach in and plug in the harness and then push the pins into the holes shown in the first post.
On the driver's side, my plug was accessed inside the engine bay just behind the airbox. It was taped to another harness. I carefully cut the tape and ran the plug into the space between the fender and the liner. I had to seat the plug into the hole that was pre-drilled in the fender. I plugged the harness in and ran it down inside the fender.
Make sure you use the DC harness on the driver's side and the PC on the passenger side!
As for the holes, see the pictures for the measurements. I used a paper tape to deal with the contours.
I drilled a small pilot hole with a 1/8" bit and then went with the hole saw. The metal is stupidly thin and the cut was quick and about perfect. I used a round file to smooth off the edges, primed and then laid down a coat of the base for the color of my truck. It was 82 degrees today, so I gave the paint some time to set up before moving on.
Sorry gebo, but your sensor bezels are upside down.
This is critical to get right so that your bezels sit flush with the contour and so that your sensors are level. The key is to have the opening where the sensor plugs into the bezel pointed straight down - thus your short locating ribs are pointed at 6 o'clock. Make your marks relative to this position and you will be golden. I used a flat file and filed a little bit and tested, filed, tested, rinsed and repeated until the bezel went in snugly.When inserting the bezel, insert the sensor into the back of the bezel (not fully) and introduce it into the hole on an angle. Push the bezel in and then push the sensor fully into the bezel once the bezel has locked into position. Plug the harness into the sensor and button things back up! I used some clear silicone around the edges of the bezel, wetting my finger to smooth it off and then wiped up the excess. This is aluminum of course, but I figured it was cheap insurance nonetheless...
APA works like a freaking champ - even in the dead of night. I was amazed how perfectly it maneuvered my truck into a spot. The wheel snaps pretty quickly, but it parked the truck perfectly within 6" of the curb! I was amazed!
I have a few additional pictures to those posted and 2 videos as well that I have to upload to youboob. Once I do that, I will update this thread and link to the vids.
As Edd China would say, "Job done!"
Thanks in Advance