Most dealerships only like to deal with and service "as built" from the factory vehicles. No matter how simple the mod is and even using all OEM parts, their eyes glaze over the second you want to do specific things to complete the mod that requires their dealer only tools and tech access.

 

If a truck is wrecked / repaired, the dealer perform the rebuild per the asbuilt status. This covers them.

When the install of the system is DIY, they have no ability to verify that the install was done according to spec. ie torque, application of 262 TL, alignment/leveling, etc.

I am working on getting the IDS system - as I will have this mod as well as others I plan on doing.

 

Summary of parts and FORScan changes required for this mod

 

Awesome, thank you!

As for the vertical alignment, note that the face of the sensor is cupped (concave.) Therefore, when leveling, make sure to take the level indication from the middle of the face. I measured in 3 places; right edge, left edge and center - all along the center line - just to be certain.

This is critical as the vertical alignment determines when and whether the sensor will pick up vehicles in front of you.

 

Well, Count me in, too. ACC is installed and operational. With the instructions in this thread, and a manual from factory manuals, it is super easy.

I tested the system and it works great. As most of mine are highway miles, I can see getting a lot of use from this capability. As a bonus, I also have the upgraded Platinum wheel, as well.

I made a video of how to take off the bumper - and will upload it to Youtube and post the link here. It's a pretty crappy video, but hope it will help someone.

Thank you to the pioneers!!!

 

Nice job!!! Welcome to the club.

 

Everyone is still using IDS to make the changes that forScan cannot, right?

 

The only thing that requires IDS is the actual calibration of the sensor (horizontal calibration.) All other changes are FORScan based on the table that EBM posted above.

A dealer can set up the calibration and perform it within 15 minutes and have you out the door in under a half hour.

Per 1st-F-150:
CCM Calibration
Go into Electrical, CCM, then Calibrate. You have to drive for a few minutes straight over 30 MPH and after 5 or so minutes the IPC message goes away.

 

I have a 2016 Lariat 501A, does anyone have any idea what it would take to add ACC to this package? I pulled the trim out where the HUD Light would be, and there is no connector there. I am assuming that adding the ACC would be a bunch more work on this package, and may not be worth the effort. Is it possible to add ACC without the HUD? Anyone have any idea what it would take to add ACC to a 501A package?

Thanks

Mike

 

You wouldn't be able to add collision warning without pulling the dash.

A typical way to check for ACC compatibility is to check the pigtail on the passenger side of the bumper for the ACC HS CAN 2 wires. In addition, you would also check to see if the fuse is present in the engine compartment fuse box for the automatic braking (solenoid) function.

Edit: It is assumed that you have the 8" IPC - if you don't, you would need to add that as well.