Adaptive Cruise Control *Added*
As others have stated clear all dtc's. Make sure acc is in adaptive mode on the IPC. Start acc module calibration in forscan. There will be an info box that pops up in forscan. I think you click yes/ok. Leaving forscan on begin driving. Mine calibrated in about 3kms in light traffic. It did not actually turn on afterwards but the calibration window on the IPC went away. I had not put the correct hexadecimal vin in the acc module so acc wouldn't activate but it was present. Once I inputted the correct vin into the acc module the system worked. No need to recalibrate. If I remember correctly I had to close an info window on forscan at the end of the acc programming. Not sure if that last part is critical. But the first request when starting the acc calibration is.
Hope this helps. You are so close.
Hope this helps. You are so close.
Installed the new module and calibration went as smoothly as everyone else says. Followed the prompts on the Forscan window and a 2 mile cruise up the highway and we were calibrated.
I think I screwed up the other module calibration and now it is stuck in a calibration loop.
I think I screwed up the other module calibration and now it is stuck in a calibration loop.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
What’s the cost of equipment? Any estimate on an installation cost?
Hi Everyone. I am new to this forum, not new to this industry. I have an ongoing thread on another board, but thought I would share on this platform as well.
I have a 2016 F150 502a, that I have added the adaptive Cruise Control components to yesterday. Still working on enabling the ACC function with IDS, didn't have any luck last night using IDS and another VIN. Might have to try a different approach. I will post a parts list once everything is complete.
Before..
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I have briefly seen FORscan on these threads, but know nothing about it. Seems like a good idea if I can modify the AB data line by line. Might be the trick to making it go live instead of using an as-built from another vin. Once it's live, I'll calibrate the horizontal radar alignment with IDS and will be G2g.
I have a 2016 F150 502a, that I have added the adaptive Cruise Control components to yesterday. Still working on enabling the ACC function with IDS, didn't have any luck last night using IDS and another VIN. Might have to try a different approach. I will post a parts list once everything is complete.
Before..
Attachment 467983
Attachment 467987
Attachment 467984
Attachment 467989
Attachment 467986
Attachment 467985
Attachment 467988
Attachment 467990
Attachment 467991
Attachment 467992
I have briefly seen FORscan on these threads, but know nothing about it. Seems like a good idea if I can modify the AB data line by line. Might be the trick to making it go live instead of using an as-built from another vin. Once it's live, I'll calibrate the horizontal radar alignment with IDS and will be G2g.
Any info is appreciated.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 202
Likes: 129
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/2019-...cruise-454662/
May have more relevant to your model year. I'm wokring on mine now on a 19 XLT 302A.
Unfortunately, on an XLT you're in for a good bit more work than the higher trim boys/girls.
Back in a Ford
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 29
Likes: 15
From: Watervliet, NY
So I installed mine last night, and wanted to share my experience:
First, that bracket is NOT easy to install if you don't take off the bumper. I did the install by just removing the grill, and while the wire harness just fell into place (the whole harness is on top of the bumper under the radiator- just use a clip tool to pry the locating pins out, disconnect all the connectors for shutters, lights etc. and replace with the new harness- so simple!), the bracket install was quite another story.
I have the Chrome package on my 2015 Lariat- perhaps other front bumpers might be different VERY slightly? Either way, the only way I could get the bracket to align enough to use those silly scrivets was to hammer it into position before aligning the top two bolts...I spent over 2 hours fighting the bracket install. When I FINALLY aligned it enough to get the three scrivets to seat enough to push the locking pin into place (the lower left hand hole of the bracket just did NOT want to align with the hole in the bumper), I still had to do some bashing to get the top two bolts aligned enough to get them to start threading the speednuts. What a PITA that whole process was: and I'm not convinced that doing it by removing the bumper would have made things much easier. Again, I'm not sure if something was just a bit "off" on my truck, or what.
AFTER getting the bracket on, the rest of the process was simple: install the sensor on the three studs, check for level, and then swap the steering wheel controls and did the FORSCAN edits as necessary. I had to purchase an extended license since I upgraded to the latest version of FORSCAN: so take note that the very latest version seems to require purchase of an extended license, not just going in for a free 2 month "trial" (my 2 months ended 30JUN). No problem: the software has and will be useful in the future. I set up the calibration and took a drive: at midnight and without a single other car traveling in my direction!! Luckily the road I was on had enough side items for the horizontal calibration to take: once the message went away on the instrument panel, I touched the "ok" on the Surface Pro to close out the FORSCAN calibration process, then parked for a minute to go in and clear the last DTC I had for the install (that was "Calibration not completed" or something close). Of course, on the drive HOME, I set the cruise (now in Adaptive mode and selectable via my IPC), no cars in front of me to "test".
I did test it out today on the ride home: I set a cruise speed of 71 on a 65 MPH road, and a dude in an old Jeep Cherokee pulled into the lane ahead of me doing somewhere near the speed limit. It's an odd feeling to have the truck slow down on its own to maintain the spacing you set (and watching the cruise speed drop without input is strange! He was coasting or something, so my speed dropped to about 66 MPH before I changed lanes and my speed increased back to what I set!). All in all, it seems to work well!
The Collision Avoidance Warning is also working- but I usually only see 6 bars projected up on my windshield no matter my speed and as long as I'm off the brakes: 40+ MPH seems to be where that kicks on, but I've yet to get closer than a car-length or so away from someone or something at any kind of speed to see if/when I'll get ALL bars and any audio warning. I'm curious as to how sensitive each level actually is (Low, Normal, High). I'm not curious enough to drive into a wall or someone's rear bumper though!
Bottom line: the "remove the grill only" option IS doable to install the parts necessary, but be prepared to fight the bracket a bit more than you expect.
First, that bracket is NOT easy to install if you don't take off the bumper. I did the install by just removing the grill, and while the wire harness just fell into place (the whole harness is on top of the bumper under the radiator- just use a clip tool to pry the locating pins out, disconnect all the connectors for shutters, lights etc. and replace with the new harness- so simple!), the bracket install was quite another story.
I have the Chrome package on my 2015 Lariat- perhaps other front bumpers might be different VERY slightly? Either way, the only way I could get the bracket to align enough to use those silly scrivets was to hammer it into position before aligning the top two bolts...I spent over 2 hours fighting the bracket install. When I FINALLY aligned it enough to get the three scrivets to seat enough to push the locking pin into place (the lower left hand hole of the bracket just did NOT want to align with the hole in the bumper), I still had to do some bashing to get the top two bolts aligned enough to get them to start threading the speednuts. What a PITA that whole process was: and I'm not convinced that doing it by removing the bumper would have made things much easier. Again, I'm not sure if something was just a bit "off" on my truck, or what.
AFTER getting the bracket on, the rest of the process was simple: install the sensor on the three studs, check for level, and then swap the steering wheel controls and did the FORSCAN edits as necessary. I had to purchase an extended license since I upgraded to the latest version of FORSCAN: so take note that the very latest version seems to require purchase of an extended license, not just going in for a free 2 month "trial" (my 2 months ended 30JUN). No problem: the software has and will be useful in the future. I set up the calibration and took a drive: at midnight and without a single other car traveling in my direction!! Luckily the road I was on had enough side items for the horizontal calibration to take: once the message went away on the instrument panel, I touched the "ok" on the Surface Pro to close out the FORSCAN calibration process, then parked for a minute to go in and clear the last DTC I had for the install (that was "Calibration not completed" or something close). Of course, on the drive HOME, I set the cruise (now in Adaptive mode and selectable via my IPC), no cars in front of me to "test".
I did test it out today on the ride home: I set a cruise speed of 71 on a 65 MPH road, and a dude in an old Jeep Cherokee pulled into the lane ahead of me doing somewhere near the speed limit. It's an odd feeling to have the truck slow down on its own to maintain the spacing you set (and watching the cruise speed drop without input is strange! He was coasting or something, so my speed dropped to about 66 MPH before I changed lanes and my speed increased back to what I set!). All in all, it seems to work well!
The Collision Avoidance Warning is also working- but I usually only see 6 bars projected up on my windshield no matter my speed and as long as I'm off the brakes: 40+ MPH seems to be where that kicks on, but I've yet to get closer than a car-length or so away from someone or something at any kind of speed to see if/when I'll get ALL bars and any audio warning. I'm curious as to how sensitive each level actually is (Low, Normal, High). I'm not curious enough to drive into a wall or someone's rear bumper though!
Bottom line: the "remove the grill only" option IS doable to install the parts necessary, but be prepared to fight the bracket a bit more than you expect.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
ccm calibration
I've got IDS, I've been a diesel technician part time for roughly 6 years. I picked up the trade while pursuing my bachelors degree.
To summarize progress thus far:
1. I've programmed from an AB and calibrated the CCM
2. Enabled ACC in the BCM
3. Enabled collision warning and HUD in the IPC.
The ACC system is still not active yet because of (2) modules:
1. The steering controls(?) control module (SCCM) recognizes the new switch on the wheel and has thrown a communication fault. Pressing the on/off button does not produce a response on the IPC yet.
2. The ABS module appears to need a change in the instructions to enable the automatic braking function. The pigtail leading into the module has the HS CAN II wires ran, as well as a fuse in place for the automatic braking which I why I am confident the fix is in the programming.
The modules that I am certain are involved with ACC are the following:
CCM, ABS, SCCM, IPC, BCM and PCM.
There may be more, but this is what I've seen so far. More to come soon.
To summarize progress thus far:
1. I've programmed from an AB and calibrated the CCM
2. Enabled ACC in the BCM
3. Enabled collision warning and HUD in the IPC.
The ACC system is still not active yet because of (2) modules:
1. The steering controls(?) control module (SCCM) recognizes the new switch on the wheel and has thrown a communication fault. Pressing the on/off button does not produce a response on the IPC yet.
2. The ABS module appears to need a change in the instructions to enable the automatic braking function. The pigtail leading into the module has the HS CAN II wires ran, as well as a fuse in place for the automatic braking which I why I am confident the fix is in the programming.
The modules that I am certain are involved with ACC are the following:
CCM, ABS, SCCM, IPC, BCM and PCM.
There may be more, but this is what I've seen so far. More to come soon.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Attachment 468190
More good news from yesterday. We're almost there. I had to learn a crash course on hexadecimal and FORScan last night.
I ran an AB on the SCCM and it accepted it without changing the hexadecimal code (there is not a series of VIN hexadecimal lines like the BCM has).
I found out there are a few lines in the CCM data that require the VIN. With FORScan, I went into the hexadecimal code after downloading an AB and input my hexadecimal VIN in the CCM module. It accepted the VIN.
IPC now shows the ACC picture. The system is still not operational because there are 3 communication codes remaining between the CCM and ABS. All other modules have passed the self test.
More good news from yesterday. We're almost there. I had to learn a crash course on hexadecimal and FORScan last night.
I ran an AB on the SCCM and it accepted it without changing the hexadecimal code (there is not a series of VIN hexadecimal lines like the BCM has).
I found out there are a few lines in the CCM data that require the VIN. With FORScan, I went into the hexadecimal code after downloading an AB and input my hexadecimal VIN in the CCM module. It accepted the VIN.
IPC now shows the ACC picture. The system is still not operational because there are 3 communication codes remaining between the CCM and ABS. All other modules have passed the self test.
