Adaptive Cruise Control *Added*
I have a 2.7 & I only removed the pass. headlight & grille. You can replace the harness and add the radar bracket without removing the bumper.
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 9
Thanks. Looks like I have one more problem in front of that one. My body harness has no grey wire to tap into for power. I only have 1, 2, 3, 4, 8 and 16 populated on C134. 302A XLT 5.0L V8. Any suggestions on where to tap power from?
Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 57
Likes: 7
If you have to replace the harness along the bumper I don't know how you would do it without removing the bumper. 6 bolts and the bumper is off. Really easy to do and goes quick. Seems a lot easier than pulling the grill.
5 Year Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 433
Likes: 241
On the 5.0 trucks you don't need to pull the bumper at all. The harness is right along the edge - if you lay under the truck you can see it plainly in sight.
5 Year Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 353
Likes: 74
I did the harness lying under the truck without removing bumper or grill. Definitely not difficult on a 5.0 (2015)
I tapped the fuse that powers the CCA on trucks that have the gray wire. Fuse 110 maybe? Used an add-a-circuit fuse thing in the fuse box, ran the wire along the harness, and used a screw-tap thing just past the harness connector next to the passenger headlight.
Maybe there was a simpler or more elegant way to do it but it wasn’t hard and it works.
Maybe there was a simpler or more elegant way to do it but it wasn’t hard and it works.
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 9
Add complete. This mod is AWESOME! Many thanks to everyone who has put time and effort into figuring this out... it was one step above "bolt-on" easy in my case!
I ended up purchasing a WPT-1404 pigtail to add CBBB0 to C134 (power to the CCM). Had to open up the wiring harness back go the large "Y" by the passenger headlight, and tapping into the grey wire that routes over to the active grill via the other leg of the Y.
I also did not remove my bumper, but rather just removed the grille. This proved to be a better solution for me as I had full access to both harnesses at once. I think from start to finish, it was about 6 hours worth of work.
If anyone needs any leads from a WPT-1404, send me a PM. I don't know if you can get the individual wires, so I am going to cannibalize this one.
I ended up purchasing a WPT-1404 pigtail to add CBBB0 to C134 (power to the CCM). Had to open up the wiring harness back go the large "Y" by the passenger headlight, and tapping into the grey wire that routes over to the active grill via the other leg of the Y.
I also did not remove my bumper, but rather just removed the grille. This proved to be a better solution for me as I had full access to both harnesses at once. I think from start to finish, it was about 6 hours worth of work.
If anyone needs any leads from a WPT-1404, send me a PM. I don't know if you can get the individual wires, so I am going to cannibalize this one.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 338
Likes: 64
From: Kansas City
No update, I hear that the hold up is the calibration cycle is then specific with IDS ( so if the truck came with stop and go is the only one that can be calibrated) and of course it still nonexistent in Forscan. We see if Forscan will add in the near future.
