RX1Cobra

I tried the self check with the vehicle running and still got the fault. Everything else looked good. I'll check the battery voltage also to be sure but I ordered the pump assembly just to be safe. It was only 100 bucks for a known working used part. Wouldn't I be seeing this issue with other modules too and not just ABS light?

I'm not thrilled about replacing it but if it solves the problem it's a relativity cheap and easy fix. But I think the evidence it pretty good that it's faulty with the fuse blowing before and it only happening both times in really wet conditions. In my simple mind that points to either a wiring issue (really hope not!) or the controller itself.

Can I replace just the control module on the side or do I need to replace the entire assembly? Also, if I need to undo the brake lines what size are the nuts? I only have standard flare wrenches but will pick up a metric set if needed.

Do I need to program the module or should be it just be plug and play?

Napalm

well other modules might not light up at the same time and might not undervolt. that's why it's random - and the codes can be random. SO how did the battery voltage check out? ANd did I read right you have another issue where turning off the key doesn't shut down the truck? It is Key or Push button start?

check your flare nuts and see if they fit. common car sizes are 10mm and 14mm. I've not touched the ones on my F150 so if I had to guess I would say 14 but no idea really.

All my other cars are 10mm so like I said car common.

If you do replace the ABS module I think you do have to pull the assembly total - which then means bleeding the system correctly - I like the motive bleeder device. And I think you do have to tell it what car it's attached to but that would be in the manual if it was. Look for a shop manual procedure on it and I don't know that forscan will do that or not. I think it might though.

The abs module doesn't really answer the shut down problem however so if that's still in play there is more going on.

cthusker

I would get the battery checked with a good battery load tester... something that checks more than voltage. My GF's Mazda was throwing all sorts of codes and the battery was showing good voltage. Even showed good with the load tester until I checked it for starting voltage. That test showed it was bad even though it was starting ok! It was dropping the voltage down to where it was messing with the ECM allowing it start but screwing up other things.

Changed out the battery, reset the ECM and everything was good after doing so.....................

RX1Cobra

I'm at work so I can't check the battery voltage but will when I get home. Looks like I need to pick up some metric flare wrenches, I only have standard. Figured that would be the case. The turning off issue was so weird (key not push button) but seems to have stopped after I disconnected and reconnected the battery.

Thing about this low voltage deal is this happened with the car running and driving. Right after going through a lot of water. Only thing I can think of is water somehow got into the unit. And when I clear the DTC it comes right back. No hesitation at all. And it saying internal failure.

Hope I'm up not barking up the wrong tree here, and I do appreciate you helping me, but all signs seem to point to the unit itself. May look into the motive bleeder. I know its not really needed but seems like it will speed things up drastically.

S1lverStreak

hate to revive a fossilized thread such as this, but OP do you recall what was the fix for this? I am having the same issue, same code, same lights, no blown fuses though. Were you able to get away with replacing just the module, GL3Z2C219C/FL3Z2C219C or did you have to replace the entire control unit, GL3Z2C215B/FL3Z2C215B? Don't really want to attend a dealership for this. Many Thanks.