4wd Actuator breaking
I recently had a 2.5 level installed on my 2015 f150. Since the install, I have experienced IWE and vacuum problems that I can't seem to fix. Unplugging the solenoid stops the grinding, but the 4wd actuator keeps breaking on the driver side. Both times it broke there was still vacuum hooked up.
My question moving forward is do you think the intermittent loss of vacuum is what's causing the actuator to keep breaking or is it a CV axle issue (maybe too short with 2.5 level).
I can either have my mechanic replace cv axles, hubs, actuators or I can have him put in just a new warrantied actuator on the drivers side. I'm leaning towards the free choice of just replacing the actuator again and capping the vacuum lines, but I would like to hear your thoughts as I don't want to keep bringing this truck back to the shop week after week.
My question moving forward is do you think the intermittent loss of vacuum is what's causing the actuator to keep breaking or is it a CV axle issue (maybe too short with 2.5 level).
I can either have my mechanic replace cv axles, hubs, actuators or I can have him put in just a new warrantied actuator on the drivers side. I'm leaning towards the free choice of just replacing the actuator again and capping the vacuum lines, but I would like to hear your thoughts as I don't want to keep bringing this truck back to the shop week after week.
Each time you hear the IWEs grinding, it is causing damage to them. Eventually, if let go, will completely destroy them. So you need to find the leak. Until you fix the issue (more later) you can leave the solenoid unplugged when you need to use the truck for non-testing purposes. Won't hurt a thing.
You can find and fix the leak, you will need to check all hoses throughly. Especially the connections where the rubber line from the actual IWE connects to the plastic line. That joint gets pulled a little when the wheels are turned sharp enough (maybe even more with your lift) and can open the crack there which seals back up when it stops pulling on the line. Check the check valve by making sure you can only blow through one direction but, this isn't a fool proof test as they can work and only fail intermittently.
Or you could just leave the solenoid unplugged.
You can find and fix the leak, you will need to check all hoses throughly. Especially the connections where the rubber line from the actual IWE connects to the plastic line. That joint gets pulled a little when the wheels are turned sharp enough (maybe even more with your lift) and can open the crack there which seals back up when it stops pulling on the line. Check the check valve by making sure you can only blow through one direction but, this isn't a fool proof test as they can work and only fail intermittently.
Or you could just leave the solenoid unplugged.
Thank you for the reply! I have been running around with the solenoid unplugged and the grinding has stopped but there is a constant vibration now. My mechanic tore it apart and found the 4wd actuator was broken. He replaced that and all was good except the 4wd actuator has now broke again. I'm trying to figure out if this is still a result of poor vacuum and IWE grinding or if it's an issue with too short of cv axles due to the 2.5 level.
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 31,720
Likes: 12,550
From: Nowhereville, Barton City Michigan
My 2020 has an actual 3" level with HaloLift coilovers. I installed them around the 1st month I bought the truck new. Had coilovers at 2.5" on my 2017. Had 2.5" coilovers on my 2012. reason I mentioned 3 trucks is because I experienced, and am experiencing zero problems.
All work done by me, and have done the same job on others trucks as well.
My question to the OP, was the cv shaft reinstalled properly, and torqued correctly? Many times the the teeth aren't meshed BEFORE torquing the axle nut, and ending up ruining a new IWE immediately, or shortly down the road.
No, the cv shafts aren't too short.
What trim package do you have? If you have 4A, Fords very lame fix is simply to remove and cap vacuum source between the engine and checkvalve.
All work done by me, and have done the same job on others trucks as well.
My question to the OP, was the cv shaft reinstalled properly, and torqued correctly? Many times the the teeth aren't meshed BEFORE torquing the axle nut, and ending up ruining a new IWE immediately, or shortly down the road.
No, the cv shafts aren't too short.
What trim package do you have? If you have 4A, Fords very lame fix is simply to remove and cap vacuum source between the engine and checkvalve.












