2016 5.0 - Front End IWE Grinding Noise SOLVED
05-13-2019, 03:59 PM
#1
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2016 5.0 - Front End IWE Grinding Noise SOLVED
History:
I had this grinding noise coming from my front end while in 4A.
Took it to the dealership, told them that I had this weird noise in 4A while turning. Also felt it in the steering wheel and gas pedal sometimes in 2H. Thought it was maybe the IWE's.
1st Visit -The IWE's checked out fine. Had it in again the day after..
2nd Visit - Said that my front diff bearings were making noise (Changed Diff Bearings)
3rd Visit (month later) - Still making noise, sometimes in 2H as well. (Changed Diff Bearings again.)
Noise still appears, especially in the morning within 2 minutes of driving. Would be coasting to a stoplight or barely touching the brakes and it would grind for 2 seconds till I press the accelerator
4th Visit (2 months later) - (Changed Wheel Bearing/Hub) Known issue in these trucks, Ford was releasing new bearings with a new manufacturer but I got the old ones.
5th Visit (2 month later) - Went for a test drive with the Tech, he says he hears it, but doesn't know what it is, tried to pull the "new trucks make the same noise" line on me, which I respectfully told him that its not normal and brought up that I think its the IWE's still.
I had this grinding noise coming from my front end while in 4A.
Took it to the dealership, told them that I had this weird noise in 4A while turning. Also felt it in the steering wheel and gas pedal sometimes in 2H. Thought it was maybe the IWE's.
1st Visit -The IWE's checked out fine. Had it in again the day after..
2nd Visit - Said that my front diff bearings were making noise (Changed Diff Bearings)
3rd Visit (month later) - Still making noise, sometimes in 2H as well. (Changed Diff Bearings again.)
Noise still appears, especially in the morning within 2 minutes of driving. Would be coasting to a stoplight or barely touching the brakes and it would grind for 2 seconds till I press the accelerator
4th Visit (2 months later) - (Changed Wheel Bearing/Hub) Known issue in these trucks, Ford was releasing new bearings with a new manufacturer but I got the old ones.
5th Visit (2 month later) - Went for a test drive with the Tech, he says he hears it, but doesn't know what it is, tried to pull the "new trucks make the same noise" line on me, which I respectfully told him that its not normal and brought up that I think its the IWE's still.
He checked the vacuum line in the engine compartment and notices that the line coming to the Check Valve had vacuum but not much. Took it for the weekend and noticed that one of the hose outlets leading up to the check valve wasn't cast properly and instead of a 1/8" hole there was only a pin hole. He drilled it out and now there is way more vacuum in the line. He also replaced the check-valve to the updated "Blue" design.
This seems to be the fix so far, I will update if it comes back.
Lessons:- Be nice to the service staff, they're only human and sometimes things don't go as planned. (They threw in a full detail w/ Wax/Polish for free as a result of being courteous)
- Get to know your Service Tech. I had the shop foreman who was apprehensive at first but when I was nice to him I was able to have frank conversations with him and he always took the time to explain how stuff works and why he changed out certain parts.
- Ask for a car rental if your within the warranty. I got a car rental for all my visits from Day 1 to the day I picked up my truck. I even got a 2019 Mustang GT 5.0 Convertible for 3 days
.. - Be Patient, this whole process is going on almost 6 months..
05-20-2019, 12:14 PM
#2
Member
Thanks for the details. I have an appt. tomorrow for the grinding/IWE related issue with my 2016 at 34k miles. I suspect at least one of my IWE's has been damaged from the check valve or solenoid not operating properly.
04-07-2020, 11:06 AM
#3
Junior Member
I had this same issue for months. Couldn't figure it out so I started researching and found tons of people with the problem. DO NOT REPLACE YOUR IWE's UNTIL YOU TEST AND REPLACE THE VACUUM TUBE that runs between the 2 IWE's and the solenoid. This part cost 40 bucks and is most likely the culprit of the vacuum leak. Its extremely small, exposed and somewhat brittle plastic.
From my experience I would say chase the problem like so:
1) replace the check valve - $20 3mins of work
2) test and replace the vacuum tube between the two IWE's - $40 45mins of work at most (dealer wanted $350)
3) replace the IWE's - $150 2-4 hours of work (dealer wanted $800)
From my experience I would say chase the problem like so:
1) replace the check valve - $20 3mins of work
2) test and replace the vacuum tube between the two IWE's - $40 45mins of work at most (dealer wanted $350)
3) replace the IWE's - $150 2-4 hours of work (dealer wanted $800)
.
