Reichenbach

A test for vct is to unplug them. If it does not want to stall when coming to an idle it is a sure indication of vct failure. I had recently had a tap or knock when accelerating. After cleaning and checking all cop's. I unplugged the vct's. With them unplugged it had no tap. As soon as I plugged them back in it showed up again.

Mike Sarracino

What do you mean “tap”? As in like a lean ping?

egessoverland

How did you determine which bank VCT to replace? Or did you have the dealership running up on computer to check numbers?

Nick P.

How long did it take the dealer to replace them? Having the job start tomorrow. They said 2-3 days.
Wondering what your experience was. Thanks

Davidmk001

How is it holding up? Still running ok? 🤞🤞

rdsi

The 5.0 stalling at idle after warm-up can be one of several things. You really need it to spit out a code before you replacing parts. So it could be the VCT system but many people have reported this issue was solved by replacing the cam sensors, crank sensor, purge valve and even the throttle body.

Without a code its just a crap shoot. If you do get a VCT related code then it could be one or more of the VCT solenoids, cam phasors and/or clogged filter screens that reside between the phasors & camshaft.

Replacing a VCT is easy compared to the phasors and/or filter screens. Sometimes this will fix the problem and it’s something I would do first. Removing the timing cover & chains to get at the phasors and filter screens is a BIG job and its something I would not call cheap parts wise.

So my truck definitely has a VCT problem (I’m getting VCT related codes) & I have some new solenoids ready to go. But in the mean time I’ve found that the harder I work the engine the happier it gets. If fact, after towing a heavy load for 200 miles the problem went completely away for a couple of weeks. Now I’m starting to think this might be an oil issue whereas the solenoids get tarnished up from driving it around like like a little old lady (man in my case) where the RPM’s never get above 2,000.

So it’s definitely better the more aggressive I drive but it’s not fixed. The Seafoam comment was interesting about having a positive effect but I’m afraid of adding it to my oil. I don’t recall about where I read this was a bad idea for a VCT engine.

Anyway, I’m gonna keep driving it like I stole it and give it a few more oil changes. If it doesn't fix itself then its solenoid time. If that don’t get it then its the whole shebang.

Davidmk001

Well said... that's where I plan to start also is the VCT/VVT solenoids. Hopefully this weekend if I have time as that (aside from the cam phasers) seems to be the more common fix people are reporting.

Also, funny you mention the drive the heck out of it point. I had gotten so frustrated with the crappy idle and loss of power I've been seeing (intermittently) that I got so bothered by the truck that I just decided to take out my frustration via flooring it and just doing a seris of WOT runs. Sure as hell it did make a difference. Throttle response felt better, smoother running engine etc. Was only temporary though. Went back to its old ways few days later

cdeheer

I had the rough idle/stall at temp when oil was 3,000-4,000. Rode it out to 7,000 and took to dealer. No codes but they couldn't deny the issue. Changed Bank 1 VCT solenoid and all seems well. Dealer told me 2-3 days as well and they sold all the loaners due to low inventory so I was SOL on a loaner. I called Ford and they said to request a prior authorization form for an out of pocket rental and I would be reimbursed. When I dropped the truck of I requested this and amazingly my truck was ready by lunchtime on day 1. They called today to tell me my reimbursement check for the rental was ready to go.

Nick P.

Had a similar experience. I made an appt for the VCT (one bank) replacement with a loaner. When I got there they said there was a mixup and they overbooked the loaner. I waited till the next morning to bring my truck back in. They had the loaner ready for me and said they’d call when ready in 2-3 days. By 1 pm they called and said I could pickup my truck and they were done. I questioned my service writer as to if they actually even did anything and he assured me it was completed but admitted he was a little hesitant to call me because it took way less time than the book says. He said that the tech had done lots of them and could basically do it in his sleep. I told them that I hoped he wasn’t sleeping. He offered to let me talk to the tech who did it but at that point I just trusted humanity and said thanks for getting it done quickly. It has knocked a very few times since replacement but not near the issue it was. I do run mid grade fuel. Seems the summer blend allows the truck to run better than the winter blend. I am in north Ohio by Michigan border so not sure how the winter blends of fuel vary state to state. These 5.0’s seem to be very particular to the fuel they burn vs how happy they are

Chetak150

I have a 2016 f150 lariat 5.0, 4wd. I have the same code p0012. It all started with p0303 about 10k miles back. So i changed the ignition coil on cylinder 3. The light was gone for about 500 miles but came back on soon after. This time a p0012 code. However, in my case the engine light came and went. Usually came on when the engine was warmed up specially after driving a 100 miles in one go. My truck idled rough at low rpms particularly when it came to a stop. Seldomly, it would stall too.

I finally decided to have ford dealership run a diagnostic test. They told me they didnt hear any funky noise related to the cam phaser or timing but found erratic behavior of the solenoid(some graph with 7deg diff or something). They sounded pretty sure that the vct solenoids are bad.They were asking about $1200 to replace the solenoid. That is just ridiculous for a job that should not take more than a couple hours and playing with a dozen bolts. A friend has offered to change these for me. Hopefully this will end my nightmares. I will keep you guys posted.

Also, please make sure to change oil every 5k miles at the most. I was going by the dash monitor and didn't change the oil for about 7-8k a couple times. I am suspecting that could have led to the solenoid failure.