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2015 3.5L Ecoboost intercooler

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Old 12-28-2014, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Boatmanbuzz
You can't drill a hole in the air to air or you would have no turbo pressure/boost.
The air to air is pressurized. No turbo pressure=no power. Dead horse.
Most drill a small hole then put a small screw in to seal it then pull screw to drain. A small enough hole shouldn't effect boost that much and will just keep the diverter closed more often instead of bleeding the excess boost I would guess
Old 12-28-2014, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by NickPic83
Most drill a small hole then put a small screw in to seal it then pull screw to drain. A small enough hole shouldn't effect boost that much and will just keep the diverter closed more often instead of bleeding the excess boost I would guess
Am I the only one who thinks its unacceptable to have to do this?
Old 12-28-2014, 04:56 PM
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Not saying I would do it. I would rather do a catch can which I would do anyway especially since its a DI motor. Even have one on my 6.2
Old 12-28-2014, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Boatmanbuzz
You can't drill a hole in the air to air or you would have no turbo pressure/boost.
The air to air is pressurized. No turbo pressure=no power. Dead horse.
Sure you can. A 1/16" hole is not going to cause any noticeable loss of boost. The pressure is the point. It will help push out any accumulation with no side effects.

And even if it caused some significant boost loss, the wastegates can account for that unless it is at the limit of the turbo. And the tuners have shown us that isn't true.

Last edited by packplantpath; 12-28-2014 at 06:15 PM.
Old 12-28-2014, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug06fx4screw
Am I the only one who thinks its unacceptable to have to do this?
Lol, you're not the only one. I'd do it if I had to, but I wouldn't be happy about it.
Old 12-28-2014, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by joek03
I've tried to find this through search, but does anyone have pictures of the "revised" intercooler on the 3.5 ecoboost? Any other information or thoughts out there on what they've done to mitigate the condensation issue?
From what I could see when I looked at one was that it is now in the same location as diesel engines, in front of the radiator. It appeared to be the same width of the radiator and seemed to be about 3 to 4 inches thick. I did not crawl under it to see the bottom as the ground was wet and nasty. From what I could see it resembled how diesel intercoolers were mounted. I could not really tell if it was the same length as the radiator, but it looked like it was at least 3/4 of the radiators length. Also the airbox intake was from a scoop in front of the airbox facing the front grill. It did have the active shutters so it was really hard to look through the grill to see it.
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Old 12-28-2014, 06:25 PM
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A small screw from a child's toy battery cover will work to plug the hole if going back to dealer or state inspection and not wanting any questions asked, then remove it. Hex head is easiest to work. The only side effect could be driving thru bumper deep water if restarting the motor a drop might get ingested into the tiny hole and then expelled by PSI again when running. So if you live in a flood prone area it could be best to plug it first. Otherwise open 100% of the time. Open is the best chance to prevent hydro lock from condensed snot ingestion possibly !

Last edited by papa tiger; 12-28-2014 at 06:31 PM.
Old 12-28-2014, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Derodeo
I'm not aware of anything other than active grill shutters that may stop the ingestion of moisture in the first place.
You do understand that the intercooler is not ingesting the water....right????
Old 12-29-2014, 10:45 AM
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Oil vapor, combustion blow by products and H2O will condense together into a snot that is heavy enough to collect near the CAC outlet. The tiny hole will force most of it out as it collects into globs of gluck and are pushed out the tiny hole. Varying temperatures and operating conditions such as humidity and altitude plus driving style will vary the Condensates levels and chemical composition. Chemists have proven all this can/will happen because water vapor likes to unite/bond/mix, with other substances when at the molecular level as it changes back to liquid. The total that does condense is far below the total amount of H2O that is contained in the total amount of air that enters the intake. If the total amount condensed there would be gallons of water each day. Instead it is mostly the amount of vapor from the Crankcase blow by and operating characteristics of the bottom oil spray onto scorching hot pistons, an ounce or 2 each driving hour traveling back thru the clean air side tube to the driver side turbo. Remove this Oil vapor mix in that tube and you will remove most all of the possible CAC mix condensing and coming out the tiny hole. Very little pure clear water will then exist, dripping from that hole.

Last edited by papa tiger; 12-29-2014 at 11:05 AM.
Old 12-29-2014, 10:58 AM
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Oil vapor, combustion blow by products and H2O will condense together ...
This the best description I've read of the phenomenon, including dozens and dozens of posts over the years in the 3.5 EB Forum


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