2010 BakFlip G2 mod to fit 2015
#12
Senior Member
Thank you sir. I did this today and it worked. The tailgate would shut without trimming the rails, but it was a little tight. Knocked off 1/4" and it is perfect. Smooth operation, rests perfectly on tailgate/bulkhead.
This works a lot better with the Undercover Swing Case than the soft tri-fold that I had.
This works a lot better with the Undercover Swing Case than the soft tri-fold that I had.
#13
My wife's hotter!
Any shims necessary? I have a line on a used g2 and was wondering what I may need. Has everything but drain hoses and the weather stripping near the cab and tailgate. Thanks
#14
Senior Member
No shims necessary on the F150.
You can get the 2 things you're missing for about $20 from the Bakflip site, or buy some stuff from Home Depot that will probably work as well.
Drain Tubes
Bulkhead Seal
#15
My wife's hotter!
No shims necessary on the F150.
You can get the 2 things you're missing for about $20 from the Bakflip site, or buy some stuff from Home Depot that will probably work as well.
Drain Tubes
Bulkhead Seal
You can get the 2 things you're missing for about $20 from the Bakflip site, or buy some stuff from Home Depot that will probably work as well.
Drain Tubes
Bulkhead Seal
#16
It's my first day
I just put a used 2013 5.5 BakFlip G2 on my new 2016. The rail over hangs a little bit like in the above photos but it works all the same. The auto open tail gate will pop open but stick in the upright position until I manually open it all the way down.
I'll look into trimming my rails this weekend, thanks for the upload.
Initially I had some trouble with the width but it was my fault. I used foam tape (like with a truck cap) to try and seal out as much moisture as possible but the added thickness of said tape made it harder to operate.
I'll look into trimming my rails this weekend, thanks for the upload.
Initially I had some trouble with the width but it was my fault. I used foam tape (like with a truck cap) to try and seal out as much moisture as possible but the added thickness of said tape made it harder to operate.
#17
I have a Bakflip Fibermax that was on my 2013 & have installed with a couple mods on my '16. Seems to work fine. I didn't have to trim it nor add any weather stripping. This is the 6.5 ft box.
I had to shim where the clamps were with a piece of 1/8 or so hard board (what I had handy, scrap at the time) between the extrusion (cover rail) and the plastic bed rail cap. The shim goes right below the plastic one that was stuck on originally at the factory for the previous body style. If the shim isn't there the rail clamps down angled outward & the latches won't catch. I've also modded the drain, all it takes is 2- 1/2 std / tight turn style copper 90 degree elbow from the home store & 2- 4 inch pieces of the drain tubing. All connections are press fit only & utilizes the little access hole in the front stake pockets.
The rails go as far forward as possible, butting up against the front of the box. The cover does the same when you install it on the rails. I haven't seen any leaking issues yet over the previous installation on the '13, or at least no more than the slight dribbling in the corners & by the tailgate I had previously as well.
I had to shim where the clamps were with a piece of 1/8 or so hard board (what I had handy, scrap at the time) between the extrusion (cover rail) and the plastic bed rail cap. The shim goes right below the plastic one that was stuck on originally at the factory for the previous body style. If the shim isn't there the rail clamps down angled outward & the latches won't catch. I've also modded the drain, all it takes is 2- 1/2 std / tight turn style copper 90 degree elbow from the home store & 2- 4 inch pieces of the drain tubing. All connections are press fit only & utilizes the little access hole in the front stake pockets.
The rails go as far forward as possible, butting up against the front of the box. The cover does the same when you install it on the rails. I haven't seen any leaking issues yet over the previous installation on the '13, or at least no more than the slight dribbling in the corners & by the tailgate I had previously as well.
Last edited by kmac1036; 02-06-2017 at 04:14 PM.
#18
If anyone is looking for the correct rails for the G2, I have 2 BAKFlip rails (5.6' bed) sent to me in error by BAK Industries. They didn't want them back. I posted the details in the Trade & Sales section.
#19
Senior Member
I have a Bakflip Fibermax that was on my 2013 & have installed with a couple mods on my '16. Seems to work fine. I didn't have to trim it nor add any weather stripping. This is the 6.5 ft box.
I had to shim where the clamps were with a piece of 1/8 or so hard board (what I had handy, scrap at the time) between the extrusion (cover rail) and the plastic bed rail cap. The shim goes right below the plastic one that was stuck on originally at the factory for the previous body style. If the shim isn't there the rail clamps down angled outward & the latches won't catch. I've also modded the drain, all it takes is 2- 1/2 std / tight turn style copper 90 degree elbow from the home store & 2- 4 inch pieces of the drain tubing. All connections are press fit only & utilizes the little access hole in the front stake pockets.
The rails go as far forward as possible, butting up against the front of the box. The cover does the same when you install it on the rails. I haven't seen any leaking issues yet over the previous installation on the '13, or at least no more than the slight dribbling in the corners & by the tailgate I had previously as well.
Attachment 466262
Attachment 466257
Attachment 466258
Attachment 466261
Attachment 466260
Attachment 466263
Attachment 466259
I had to shim where the clamps were with a piece of 1/8 or so hard board (what I had handy, scrap at the time) between the extrusion (cover rail) and the plastic bed rail cap. The shim goes right below the plastic one that was stuck on originally at the factory for the previous body style. If the shim isn't there the rail clamps down angled outward & the latches won't catch. I've also modded the drain, all it takes is 2- 1/2 std / tight turn style copper 90 degree elbow from the home store & 2- 4 inch pieces of the drain tubing. All connections are press fit only & utilizes the little access hole in the front stake pockets.
The rails go as far forward as possible, butting up against the front of the box. The cover does the same when you install it on the rails. I haven't seen any leaking issues yet over the previous installation on the '13, or at least no more than the slight dribbling in the corners & by the tailgate I had previously as well.
Attachment 466262
Attachment 466257
Attachment 466258
Attachment 466261
Attachment 466260
Attachment 466263
Attachment 466259