2.7l First Oil Change and oil review
05-09-2016, 01:51 AM
#1
2.7l First Oil Change and oil review
truck details:
2.7l ecoboost
gauge cluster indicated 39% oil life remaining
odometer showed 11843 km or about 7400 miles.
my useage has been a lot of start stop in Canada's fridged north (bought last november).
vehicle would get plugged in at anything below -15C about 5F
I set the front up on the new ramps I bought (tricky). I actually shifted into 4L to carefully crawl up and not shoot the ramps out from under. I then set jack stands under the frame rails just in case. The oil was drained out for over half an hour as I had to go chase down a 27mm socket to fit the cartridge filter. Note: I can confirm that if you pour your new oil in the top of the 2.7l engine it will begin to immediately drain out the bottom. At least until you put the drain plug back in!!! The filter is on the opposite side and may drain back differently. Oil was quite black but had a good slick feel between the fingertips. Startup on after the change resulted in a much quieter engine. At least per my calibrated ears. As for cost, I bought the filter from ford. The Pennzoil Platinum oil at walmart and used the $10 dollar discount coupon. overall, price comparable to Castrol or Mobil 1 on sale.
A recent dealer experience, has reaffirmed to me that if you want to treat your truck the best, then you do it yourself. In fact, my oil change was a lot of fun. it was nice working on my own truck. while I was down there I had a good look around and noticed that the topper company cheaped out and just ran exposed wire through the body and along the frame rail to the back of the truck. I fixed that after the oil change, looks factory under there now. Just another reason to do things yourself.
I did a little internet browsing looking for deals on my favorite synthetic oil and came across some interesting information that has changed my future oil choices for good. What I found on the oils is indicated in the screen shots below.
We all know that most damage happens at startup, so the smaller number at -30C can be interpreted as much better.
A slower oil mass loss means its going to turn to sludge slower. ie. last longer.
the motorcraft was tested in 2011 and was listed as an SM vs the newer standard SN
2.7l ecoboost
gauge cluster indicated 39% oil life remaining
odometer showed 11843 km or about 7400 miles.
my useage has been a lot of start stop in Canada's fridged north (bought last november).
vehicle would get plugged in at anything below -15C about 5F
I set the front up on the new ramps I bought (tricky). I actually shifted into 4L to carefully crawl up and not shoot the ramps out from under. I then set jack stands under the frame rails just in case. The oil was drained out for over half an hour as I had to go chase down a 27mm socket to fit the cartridge filter. Note: I can confirm that if you pour your new oil in the top of the 2.7l engine it will begin to immediately drain out the bottom. At least until you put the drain plug back in!!! The filter is on the opposite side and may drain back differently. Oil was quite black but had a good slick feel between the fingertips. Startup on after the change resulted in a much quieter engine. At least per my calibrated ears. As for cost, I bought the filter from ford. The Pennzoil Platinum oil at walmart and used the $10 dollar discount coupon. overall, price comparable to Castrol or Mobil 1 on sale.
A recent dealer experience, has reaffirmed to me that if you want to treat your truck the best, then you do it yourself. In fact, my oil change was a lot of fun. it was nice working on my own truck. while I was down there I had a good look around and noticed that the topper company cheaped out and just ran exposed wire through the body and along the frame rail to the back of the truck. I fixed that after the oil change, looks factory under there now. Just another reason to do things yourself.
I did a little internet browsing looking for deals on my favorite synthetic oil and came across some interesting information that has changed my future oil choices for good. What I found on the oils is indicated in the screen shots below.
We all know that most damage happens at startup, so the smaller number at -30C can be interpreted as much better.
A slower oil mass loss means its going to turn to sludge slower. ie. last longer.
the motorcraft was tested in 2011 and was listed as an SM vs the newer standard SN
Last edited by Toizzz; 05-09-2016 at 02:49 AM.
05-09-2016, 08:51 AM
#2
How does the -30C number mean anything to me when I start my truck at 22C + most of the time?
Hint: You need way more info. Picking oil on purely its -30C properties is good if you live in the frozen tundra though
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html
Hint: You need way more info. Picking oil on purely its -30C properties is good if you live in the frozen tundra though
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html
Last edited by BeerCan; 05-09-2016 at 08:54 AM.
05-09-2016, 11:15 AM
#3
Cycle For Fun and Health
For that "flow through" test, were you using quart containers or the 5 liter container?
Either way it could have been a costly mess.
Either way it could have been a costly mess.
05-09-2016, 09:57 PM
#4
I had heard they take 30 minutes to drain, so I just started slowly. not sure if I would get an air bubble or not. anyways. my drain pan was still in place as I was letting it drip while I went part searching. just heard it wasting my new oil. so I quickly popped the plug back in and gave it a twist to lock in place. probably lost less than 1/2 a quart. glad I didn't have the radio blasting.... that might have been a real problem. lol
05-09-2016, 10:00 PM
#5
How does the -30C number mean anything to me when I start my truck at 22C + most of the time?
Hint: You need way more info. Picking oil on purely its -30C properties is good if you live in the frozen tundra though
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html
Hint: You need way more info. Picking oil on purely its -30C properties is good if you live in the frozen tundra though
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html
not everyone lives in the lower states. but I was surprised at the huge difference at -30C between oil brands. When winter returns I will look hard at a 0-20 or 0-30 oil for our winter conditions.
I made my choice between brands, mostly based on the fact Pennzoil is now made from natural gas and is a cleaner base oil and that its going to last longer based on the Noack Volatility. especially when compared to the dealership oil.
Last edited by Toizzz; 05-09-2016 at 10:03 PM.
05-09-2016, 10:07 PM
#6
was wondering about Castrol Magnatec it was engineer with Ford ecoboost.
Castrol GTX Magnatec 5W-30
Method Result
Viscosity @ 100C, cSt ASTM D455 11.20 cSt
Viscosity @ 40C, cSt ASTM D455 68.6 cSt
Viscosity Index ASTM D2270 156
Low temperature (C) ASTM D5293 6600 max
Cranking viscosity, cP max
Low temperature (C) ASTM D4684 40000 max
Pumping viscosity, cP max
HT/HS viscosity, cP min ASTM D4683 2.9 min
Pour Point (C), max ASTM D97 -36 max
Flash Point PMCC C, min ASTM D93 200 C min
Density ASTM D4052 0.860
Castrol GTX Magnatec 5W-30
Method Result
Viscosity @ 100C, cSt ASTM D455 11.20 cSt
Viscosity @ 40C, cSt ASTM D455 68.6 cSt
Viscosity Index ASTM D2270 156
Low temperature (C) ASTM D5293 6600 max
Cranking viscosity, cP max
Low temperature (C) ASTM D4684 40000 max
Pumping viscosity, cP max
HT/HS viscosity, cP min ASTM D4683 2.9 min
Pour Point (C), max ASTM D97 -36 max
Flash Point PMCC C, min ASTM D93 200 C min
Density ASTM D4052 0.860
05-09-2016, 11:06 PM
#7
Senior Member
Atlas...the Castrol oil in your YouTube post is only relevant to the EUROPEAN Ford spec WSS-M2C913-B&C (e.g. Transit engines, etc.) requirements that are NOT applicable to North American vehicles. BTW, the test sequence numbers provided are incomplete and meaningless since they lack results related to ASTM testing.
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AtlasF150 (05-10-2016)
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05-09-2016, 11:19 PM
#8
not everyone lives in the lower states. but I was surprised at the huge difference at -30C between oil brands. When winter returns I will look hard at a 0-20 or 0-30 oil for our winter conditions.
I made my choice between brands, mostly based on the fact Pennzoil is now made from natural gas and is a cleaner base oil and that its going to last longer based on the Noack Volatility. especially when compared to the dealership oil.
I made my choice between brands, mostly based on the fact Pennzoil is now made from natural gas and is a cleaner base oil and that its going to last longer based on the Noack Volatility. especially when compared to the dealership oil.
How is the oil going to last longer based on NOACK?
Regarding the -30C spec, you said you plug in at -15C. If you use the calculator I linked you will see at that temp and higher the oils viscosity is much closer. I would speculate that very few people crank at -30C, most plug in or have heated garages.
05-09-2016, 11:38 PM
#9
Senior Member
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Twin snail putput (01-20-2022)
05-09-2016, 11:57 PM
#10
That is what add pack, base oil chemistries etc are for. At least in my mind. NOACK is nice to know but is only one part of the equation.