Berton

Hello, I have my 2001 Super Crew 2 wheel drive, has a hard shift kit, 8inch differential lifted on 35s(speedo way off).....I started having crazy noise and weird brakes crunching...after looking and driving with my friend mechanic we decided it sounded like ABS failure, I pulled ABS fuse and it got better.......then....noise in the rear end....I pull cover on the pumpkin and couple sheered bolts come out and chunk of I think ring gear....the ABS gear is like part taco and off.....ALL BAD.....

So my question is this....I have the H9 its like 8.8 by 3.55 limited slip......Should I look for a 4.10 or is it 4.11? and Why?
Will the physical size and length difference of a different (total rear end )make any difference other then a slight change in driveline angle to the Installation???
Thanks in Advance for any advice

Eric Kleven

Get a 9.75" axle and 4.10 or ~4.30 gears with tires that big.

Berton

Thanks for response...what is the advantage? and will i have issue with the physical fit/ install of different differential?

Eric Kleven

Shouldn't be a big issue going from an 8.8 to a 9.75. the axle is heavier, but a lot more durable for what you're doing. You're going to probably want the drive shaft from a truck with the same wheelbase/drive configuration as yours. 9.75 uses a different u-joint setup than the 8.8, I think.

35" wheels are quite a bit taller than stock, making your axle ration 'stiffer/faster' than what's in there. your 3.55 and tall tires is probably behaving like a 3.08 with stock tires. 4.10 or 4.33 gears will put your truck and you back into a happy spot.
If this is a 4.6l engine, try to go with the 4.33, even though it would probably be an aftermarket gear set. hell, 4.56 wouldn't be out of line with that engine and tire combo.

Berton

Thanks for the input, so now doing some research on what truck years have that 9.75 with ratios I like.... I will look closer at the drive line and flange U-joint set up as well.... Thanks again!!!
Berton

norcal screw

Okay, This one I can help on cause I've done it. Leave the entire brake system intact. Pull your calipers and tywrap the up. Pull you brake lines lose off the axle. open up the Diff and release the c clips that hold the axles in. Pull the axles out. Remove the backing plates/ caliper and e-brakes intact. Slide in the 9.75 axle and mount the backing plates/ e-brakes. Slide the 9.75 axles in and re assemble the spiders/ c-clip and pin. install rear disc, lower the brake line and calipers and bolt them up. If you think and plan it right you should not have to even bleed the brakes at all. Fill your diff with fluid and the rest of the obvious stuff and your done. I did mine by myself in 2 hours provided you have the parts and oil. Replace the 9.75 axle seals and pinion seal while it's apart. On mine the backing plates, brake hoses and lines, calipers were interchangeable. You just need the complete 9.75 housing and axles, the rest will swap right over.