Martian

Actually you're just a douchebag and mitymerc is right, and no, a valve body problem would not cause a tick or misfire, so learn something about your ing truck before you come here asking for help and bash those who provide it for you

Martian

Let alone mouthing off to a pro like mitymerc who rebuilds these transmissions for a goddamn living

Holicori

So...when I suggest that it would misfire, then ask if that's correct...I'm automatically a know it all?

The reason I spouted off is because I in no way acted like I had all the answers. Yet, this guy whose *** youre kissing makes disrespectful remarks.

I don't care if he's a professional tranny guy...or a jiggalo. There was no need for him to be rude. Especially when the dumbass completely took things out of context.

Keep your head up his *** all you want bud...

Martian

A professional gave you input and you wrote it off completely, which was a slap in his face, then you threw back a swift punch in the *****. Take a walk, buddy. This forum doesn't need you.

Holicori

A professional gave me input...which I then replied....if this happens, wouldn't this also happen?

Holicori

A professional gave me input...which I then replied....if this happens, wouldn't this also happen?

Martian

Valid input... the valve body is inside the transmission, not the engine, and therefore the engine would not tick or misfire. The engine and the transmission aren't really "connected" in the way most people think.

When a guy who rebuilds transmissions to put food on the table (and posts pictures of his work on here to help others) tells you to check the valve body, regardless of whether it's new or not, you don't argue... maybe add input, which you started to do in your first line, but don't tell him he's wrong and just "rule that out". If you knew already, you wouldn't be here. Which is why you got this response:

SO, now that we're back at square one, you need to start posting pictures of the valve body, tell us who made / rebuild the parts, all that stuff. Just because a part is new doesn't mean it can't fail. That's why warranties exist. Sometimes things just don't work.

Martian

And concerning this, you should think it over at least a little. We all come here for help and that help is free. So when a professional offers their time and expertise, which they are normally paid for, it would do you well to be respectful to them like the rest of us are.

Holicori

OK, well unfortunately I have to admit that I was wrong
I completely misread his original post. When he said the valves were sticking...I apparently missed "valve body" and assumed he was referring to the engine. Which is why I mentioned the misfire. And that's also what I was referring to in regards to being completely rebuilt with new parts. Which is why I was really thrown off.

However, I should have known he meant the valve body. And will even admit, does make me look like a dumbass. Kind of hard to deny that one. But this has all just been miscommunication, on my part for misreading.

However, he was still rude by just throwing it out there that I had a big head and knew all the answers...when all I did was tell him why I think this, and asked if I was correct.

I understand this forum, advice is free. But just because a person knows something another doesn't, does not give them liberty to be disrespectful. I'm not apologizing for calling him out, he was rude first.


That being said, lets move on.

It could be in the valve body. Valve body's are still mostly voo-doo for me. I did do the JMod while I had it out. And used the. New check ***** and gaskets that came in the kit. I also used a sonnax servo pin because the previous one was worn, and I suspect that it's what caused the forward clutch to fail.

I didn't replace any pistons though, I cheapest out. I inspected them and they seemed good enough, but could have been replaced.

Anyways, I'm not sure if its mechanical or electrical. Let me give some updates.

1 reason I think it's electrical. I have noticed that when I come to a stop, I have to manually shift into "1", let it shift, then put it back in " D" drive. It does it every time almost. If I leave it in "D" after a stop...it feels like its in 2nd or 3rd gear. Sometimes it stays like that, and sometimes it drops into 1st. Once it's in gear, it runs great...no slipping etc.

That's why I think it may be a solenoid, agree or disagree? I was thinking it could possibly be one of the accumulators as well, but I'm not sure exactly how they function.

Knowing this now, would you still suggest valve body? Where is a good place to get a replacement?
Should I replace entire valve body, or just the valves?
While in there, I pushed on each valve..and they all moved and sprung back.

Now, I still have my second problem. Where it revs to 2,000 rpm and won't rev higher...but still accelerates.

Suggesting valve body is the culprit of this too?

mitymerc

Not sure what to tell you, I have 15 yrs experience building these transmissions, mostly on trucks.

I have no idea what problem you were having the transmission that caused you to decide it needed a rebuild in the first place.

I have no idea what your knowledge, experience or mechanical skills are, so I started with the basic mistakes i see from people rebuilding their own transmissions. Since I wasn't there when you did the rebuild, I have no idea what repairs you did, what parts you did or didnt replace, what kind of kit was used and IF parts were assembled and torqued correctly.

While it is possible the torque converter or shift solenoid has failed, its unlikely and based on my experience I would suspect other parts or incorrect assembly first. But, with out knowing what you have done during the rebuild process it is next to impossible to diagnose over the internet