Sound like you got a smooth bent system. True mandrel bends will stay nearly the same diameter throughout the bend.


Don't expect any gains with shorty headers. Likewise, it's not the silencers in the intake that are restrictive. Actually going after the restriction with the Gotts mod is good for a few horse and long tube headers can gain 20 hp.

 

you mean to say headers arent even good for any hp/tq gains?
can i see an example of these long tubes u talk about?
so all these tv shows that show dyno proven gains are purposely lying to fudge the numbers for their advertisers? isnt that prosecutable fraud?

 

Headers are good for power gains, but only long tube style headers and when properly tuned on these trucks. Other motors will respond differently to short vs. long depending on factory design and the rest of the exhaust system so this isn't an across the board set in stone type of rule but a decent
generalization.

If you are around a dyno ever, you'll find how easy it is to vary power between each run (what gear run it was from one to another, ambient temp, dyno runs on different days, warm vs. cold motor, etc). Most CAI companies do this to expand their numbers. Not exactly fraud, but not exactly being totally honest and up front with how the tests were performed. It's marketing, and sadly the consumer largely blindly trusts it.

http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/h11449s.html

 

http://us-dc1-order.store.yahoo.net/...onId=ysco.cart


i knew that price was too good to be true. looks like their only shipping available to canada is 365 bucks!

sucks as these are only other ones i found

http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts...A3013A0A0.aspx
not really comparable systems but whatever

 

I had a Dynomax UltraFlo cat back kit for my old truck and loved the way it sounded. The mufflers are rated to hold up to 2000hp with out creating a restriction and are all welded and stainless steel construction. I was leery about them at first due to the low price of a all stainless mandrel bent exhaust for $300 but it was well worth it. I had mine 3" SI 2.5" DO dumped under the bed and gave it great rumble at an idle and a good performance tone under throttle. Highly recommend!

 

So true! Mods can rob so much power/torque if the physics of the exhaust system is not properly taken into account. So many people around where I live have all "Noise and Show" but have no "Get Up and Go"!

 

Wanted to start this back up since it seems like y'all know what y'all are talking about. Talked to a local muffler shop and he said do NOT put true dual on a 2013! That sucks cause that's what I wanted! He says it'll burn a valve and he did one for a guy and the guy lost 5-6 mpg's! Is this true!? Could you do an H pipe and get away with it? I want loud so was also thinking of going with no muffler. Is that a bad thing?

 

I could see the guy losing those MPG's on his first tank because he couldnt keep his foot out of it and wanted to hear it roar.

 

"True dual" is the old (and frankly stupid) way of doing duals. There no reason to run separate pipes. Why sacrifice power and possibly longevity when putting a crossover is so easy to do.? An X or an H (I usually recommend X for better sound and slight power advantage to H), makes the proper dual system. The reasoning and dynamics are in the first post in this thread.

There are several mufflers that won't take down the decibel level, and still create a better tone. IMO you'd be better off looking at a short body muffler with your properly designed dual system to get a loud, quality sounding system.

 

Thanks Otto. I'm a lil outta date with exhaust. The last truck I had was a 89 gmc with a 305 and that was 13 or so years ago! You're awesome and again, thanks for the help.