"early morning rodknock of death"
12-27-2009, 10:22 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"early morning rodknock of death"
after a 5-6 minit warm up it goes away but,
it's getting worse so i better tackle it now before the crank jurnal gets out of round.
i use this truck for work (construction)= i beat the crap out of it
smoked the tranny already cost me $1600 to fix it: complete rebuild, new torque converter and shift kit. shift kit aliminates the down and upshift every time you let off the peddle when you are on the freeway. i drive 50 mi. a day on the freeway for work for the last 6 years: downshift-upshif-downshift-upshift-downshft...KABLAMO
there goes 4th clutch pack and you're torque converter...anyways, it doesn't do that anymore
can't find my book, can someone give me torque spec on rod cap bolts please and can i reuse the bolts or do i HAVE to buy new ones
136000 mi. 1998 f-150 4.6 triton windser
thx in advance.
it's getting worse so i better tackle it now before the crank jurnal gets out of round.
i use this truck for work (construction)= i beat the crap out of it
smoked the tranny already cost me $1600 to fix it: complete rebuild, new torque converter and shift kit. shift kit aliminates the down and upshift every time you let off the peddle when you are on the freeway. i drive 50 mi. a day on the freeway for work for the last 6 years: downshift-upshif-downshift-upshift-downshft...KABLAMO
there goes 4th clutch pack and you're torque converter...anyways, it doesn't do that anymorecan't find my book, can someone give me torque spec on rod cap bolts please and can i reuse the bolts or do i HAVE to buy new ones
136000 mi. 1998 f-150 4.6 triton windser
thx in advance.
12-29-2009, 04:32 PM
#2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rod cap bolts are torque to yeild, you can not reuse them. throw them away. go to a ford dealership and special order them, they are $9 each. cost $104 for all 16. also order you're bearings $47 for standerd set. also new oil pan gasket $22. 2 day wait for bolts and bearings. they had the oil pan gasket. not going to buy oil or filter from them, will pick that up at autozoner along with perma gasket to hold the oil pan gasket on there while i cram that puppy back in there.
$100 bill to rent a torque wrench, you get it back when you return it, autozoner.
torque sequence:
#1 torque 29 to 34 FT/LBS
#2 torque an additional 90 to 120 degrees
going to dive in this weekend. i will come back and explain how it all went in case anyone else needs to do this "god forbid".
$100 bill to rent a torque wrench, you get it back when you return it, autozoner.
torque sequence:
#1 torque 29 to 34 FT/LBS
#2 torque an additional 90 to 120 degrees
going to dive in this weekend. i will come back and explain how it all went in case anyone else needs to do this "god forbid".
Last edited by raz187; 12-30-2009 at 11:35 AM.
12-30-2009, 09:57 AM
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my 83 knocks for a split second when i start it up cold in the morning.
changed my oil with some castrol gtx, and added a bottle of lucas for my oil pan gasket. went away for a while. but still does it every now and then.
But, your fix is the right way to get rid of it. good luck.
changed my oil with some castrol gtx, and added a bottle of lucas for my oil pan gasket. went away for a while. but still does it every now and then.
But, your fix is the right way to get rid of it. good luck.
12-30-2009, 11:28 AM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thx for the luck, i'm going to need it. i am moving from california to michigan. that is why it's getting fixed properly. all i need is to kick a rod out the side of the block halfway there >.< i will make a step by step write up of my expereince, for all you 4.6/5.4 tritons with this unfortunate condition.
01-04-2010, 12:49 AM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
took all weekend but i finaly got it finished. what a pain in the azz. if i can do it anybody can do it.
what you need:
1. torque wrench rental. $105 you get that back when you return it "clean"
2. rod cap bolts. $104 special order them at the stealership. 2 day wait.
3. bearings. $47 special order them from the stealership. 2 day wait.
4. oil pan gasket. $22
5. oil, oil filter. $20
6. perma gasket. $5
7. = $303
-
going to need all you're tools so grap them.
-
put it up on jack stands. loosen right side motor mount, leave the 2 bolts in there. take out the left side motor mount bolt, the long one. loosen the tranny mount nuts, leave them on there. if you have a chery picker hook it up to the top of the motor some how and lift the motor up as far as it can go. i did not have one so i put a 2x4 across the crank pully and a/c pully and lifted the motor as far as it would go. i took the belt off first. then i put a small peice of 2x4 and wedged it in between the motor mount. let the bottle jack down and out of the way. the small peice of 2x4 held that side of the motor way up there. drain the oil, take the old oil filter off. take the oil pan bolts off. the oil pan should drop down and get hung up by the pick up tube. at the front of the oil pan you need to twist the oil pan to the right and the backside to the left. now you should have a strait shot to the 2 lil bolts holding the front of the pick up tube. take those 2 lil bolts off. go to the rear with a 10mm wrench and take off that last bolt holding the back of the pick up tube. be carefull couse the oil pan will slide right out, as long as you have the motor lifted up enough.
put a ratchet on you're crank bolt and start replacing bearings. 1 at a time. mark the side of the rod with something, i used a screwdriver. take the cap off, center punch the old bolts out throw them away. pop the new and expensive ones in. wipe cap with clean shop rag. pop in new bearing, oil with finger. push the rod and piston up and to the right and then down to get the other half of the old bearing out of there. wipe clean, put new bearing up in there, oil with finger. push rod and piston up and back over and down on top of the crank. put cap on. now, torque to yeild. i torqued both bolts to 34 FT lbs. then i used a magic marker and drew a line across the bolt. then i put a mark on the rod which would be 1/4 turn (90*). i put a cheater bar on a ratchet, said a "prayer" and ganked the bolt half way. went to the other one and ganked that one half way. then went back to the first one and slowly turned it till it was 1/4 turn. then finished the other bolt. when i was done the marks on both bolts were pointing at the mark on the rod 1/4 turn (90*). do the other 7 that way and you should be good to go. it gets kinda tight where the cross member is but do-able.
put it all back together the same way ya took it apart. put you're oil filter on and oil in and fire it up. use commen sense, make sure the motor is held firmly before you stick you're arm up and into the oil pan to get that nut off. i test drove it on the free way at 70 mph for about 20 minits. if it was going to let go it would of write there!
all the bearings i took out of my motor looked freaken bran new!! 150,000 miles o.0
but there was 1 bearing with a lil bit of ware, the very first one from the front, the last one i did. i don't think it was bad enough to make it knock like that but we shall see. when i wake up early tomarow morning and fire it up when it's ice cold. i'll come back and let ya know.
sry about spelling, i have a headache, i'm tired, i'm sore and i'm to old for this crap
what you need:
1. torque wrench rental. $105 you get that back when you return it "clean"
2. rod cap bolts. $104 special order them at the stealership. 2 day wait.
3. bearings. $47 special order them from the stealership. 2 day wait.
4. oil pan gasket. $22
5. oil, oil filter. $20
6. perma gasket. $5
7. = $303
-
going to need all you're tools so grap them.
-
put it up on jack stands. loosen right side motor mount, leave the 2 bolts in there. take out the left side motor mount bolt, the long one. loosen the tranny mount nuts, leave them on there. if you have a chery picker hook it up to the top of the motor some how and lift the motor up as far as it can go. i did not have one so i put a 2x4 across the crank pully and a/c pully and lifted the motor as far as it would go. i took the belt off first. then i put a small peice of 2x4 and wedged it in between the motor mount. let the bottle jack down and out of the way. the small peice of 2x4 held that side of the motor way up there. drain the oil, take the old oil filter off. take the oil pan bolts off. the oil pan should drop down and get hung up by the pick up tube. at the front of the oil pan you need to twist the oil pan to the right and the backside to the left. now you should have a strait shot to the 2 lil bolts holding the front of the pick up tube. take those 2 lil bolts off. go to the rear with a 10mm wrench and take off that last bolt holding the back of the pick up tube. be carefull couse the oil pan will slide right out, as long as you have the motor lifted up enough.
put a ratchet on you're crank bolt and start replacing bearings. 1 at a time. mark the side of the rod with something, i used a screwdriver. take the cap off, center punch the old bolts out throw them away. pop the new and expensive ones in. wipe cap with clean shop rag. pop in new bearing, oil with finger. push the rod and piston up and to the right and then down to get the other half of the old bearing out of there. wipe clean, put new bearing up in there, oil with finger. push rod and piston up and back over and down on top of the crank. put cap on. now, torque to yeild. i torqued both bolts to 34 FT lbs. then i used a magic marker and drew a line across the bolt. then i put a mark on the rod which would be 1/4 turn (90*). i put a cheater bar on a ratchet, said a "prayer" and ganked the bolt half way. went to the other one and ganked that one half way. then went back to the first one and slowly turned it till it was 1/4 turn. then finished the other bolt. when i was done the marks on both bolts were pointing at the mark on the rod 1/4 turn (90*). do the other 7 that way and you should be good to go. it gets kinda tight where the cross member is but do-able.
put it all back together the same way ya took it apart. put you're oil filter on and oil in and fire it up. use commen sense, make sure the motor is held firmly before you stick you're arm up and into the oil pan to get that nut off. i test drove it on the free way at 70 mph for about 20 minits. if it was going to let go it would of write there!
all the bearings i took out of my motor looked freaken bran new!! 150,000 miles o.0
but there was 1 bearing with a lil bit of ware, the very first one from the front, the last one i did. i don't think it was bad enough to make it knock like that but we shall see. when i wake up early tomarow morning and fire it up when it's ice cold. i'll come back and let ya know.
sry about spelling, i have a headache, i'm tired, i'm sore and i'm to old for this crap
01-04-2010, 10:13 AM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
victory is mine!! it's in the morning and it's cold...went out and fired it up and turned on the defrost like i did for the last 5 years, waited for that ugly rod knock sound...nothing but a smooth puring motor i guess that first rod with the lil bit of wear was it, couse it don't do it any more.
bill: i guess in the morning when it's cold the crank gernal and bearing shrink from the cold on the rod that has the most clearence and that's the one that makes that ugly rod knock. with mine before i fixed it, it was double knocking and that is the reason i went ahead and replaced the bearings. like i said up above ^ all the bearings looked bran new except the first rod in front. it had a lil bit of wear but wasn't down to copper or anything. i use to be a striper my job was to take apart all the motors that came in. most of them were wore down to copper. that's what i was looking for with my motor at least 1 but that wasn't the case. so i am good to go and i bet i can put another 50,000 to 75,000 more miles on her before she starts smoking from being wore out. then i'll rebuild.
forgot to say woot!
i guess that first rod with the lil bit of wear was it, couse it don't do it any more.bill: i guess in the morning when it's cold the crank gernal and bearing shrink from the cold on the rod that has the most clearence and that's the one that makes that ugly rod knock. with mine before i fixed it, it was double knocking and that is the reason i went ahead and replaced the bearings. like i said up above ^ all the bearings looked bran new except the first rod in front. it had a lil bit of wear but wasn't down to copper or anything. i use to be a striper my job was to take apart all the motors that came in. most of them were wore down to copper. that's what i was looking for with my motor at least 1 but that wasn't the case. so i am good to go and i bet i can put another 50,000 to 75,000 more miles on her before she starts smoking from being wore out. then i'll rebuild.
forgot to say woot!
Last edited by raz187; 01-04-2010 at 10:28 AM.
Trending Topics
02-16-2011, 06:46 AM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well i made it to michigin. no problums, truck ran great. i plugged the pcv valve with duck tape and put a chrome breather on the valve cover to keep it from sucking up oil and burning it. i drove 40 miles or so to work and back 6 day's a week for 6 years and i would burn 2 qourts of oil every 5k. couldn't figure out where it was going. no blue smoke out the tailpipe and not 1 drop on the ground. before i took the trip, i looked at the pcv valve and it was all oily. so that means it's getting sucked up and being burned thru the motor so i bought a new one and tapped it up and put that chrome thing on. in the 2500 miles it didn't burn not 1 freaken drop o.0 but every time i stopped for the night i had to wipe all the milkshake crap off the bottem of the filler cap...yuk. and all the way down the tub >.< . i guess with no curculation (pcv valve) from being heated and cooled (started and stopped) every day the condensation stayed in the motor and in the oil. so when i got here i popped that chrome breather off and hooked the pcv valve back up. i still get that milkshake on the filler cap but just a lil bit, not all the way down the freaken filler tube. in the 2500 miles the oil was starting to get a lil dirty, so i changed it and put a new motorcraft filter on funny thing thou, i get pisten slap in the morning when i first start it up couse it's so freaken cold here in the winter lol it last about 1 minit then goese away almost sounds like before i thru those rod bearings in but you can tell it's pisten slap couse of the "hollow" sound it makes couse the pistens are hollow. slap slap slap.
funny thing thou, i get pisten slap in the morning when i first start it up couse it's so freaken cold here in the winter lol it last about 1 minit then goese away almost sounds like before i thru those rod bearings in but you can tell it's pisten slap couse of the "hollow" sound it makes couse the pistens are hollow. slap slap slap.