4.2 V6 P0353 Rough Idle/No Power
01-23-2013, 07:31 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4.2 V6 P0353 Rough Idle/No Power
Hello all, first post after much searching & reading.
2006 F150 XL 4.2 V6 with 5sp manual - son bought about 6 months ago at about 107k miles
Truck died on highway while wife was limping it home running rough. Towed home, charged battery (needed it). Cranks but wont start. Checked fuses 9, 32, 33 - found 33 blown. Replaced, started up but runs very rough. Head to Adv to check codes, getting only a P0353. Checked for any loose connections, none found. Researched here, found a lot about Fuel Pump Control Module. Surprisingly, it was in very good shape compared to what I read about on forums. Very little corrosion, no swelling. Cleaned frame and module up and reinstalled. Bought new coil pack from AZ, installed and get good crank but no start. Checked every fuse in box, none blown. Put old coil back in and starts on first try, but still rough, same as before. Drive to Adv to check codes, still only P0353 (not even any other pending). Read more on here, everyone seems to suggest new plugs in this situation, so I went with the Motorcraft Platinum gapped to .053 on all 6 (old were Motorcraft Platinum also). Plug wires look good but I did not ohm them out. Starts right up but runs very rough still. Buy new coil pack from Adv, install and same as one from AZ, cranks but wont start. Did not see any damaged wires near what I think is the accumulator, but will check again tomorrow in daylight rather than flashlight. Have checked the emergency fuel switch frequently also. New fuel and air filters, > half tank gas all this time.
Feel pretty confident if I put the old coil pack back in it would go back to rough idle. Will likely do that tomorrow. Thinking of changing plug wires but trying not to just throw parts at it. Don't see that it is PCM, but I could be wrong. Not sure why neither new coil pack would start.
Thinking of
1 - Verify flow at fuel filter
2 - Ohm plug wires or just replace
3 - Replace fuel pump control module
I'm frustrated, looking for some guidance. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
2006 F150 XL 4.2 V6 with 5sp manual - son bought about 6 months ago at about 107k miles
Truck died on highway while wife was limping it home running rough. Towed home, charged battery (needed it). Cranks but wont start. Checked fuses 9, 32, 33 - found 33 blown. Replaced, started up but runs very rough. Head to Adv to check codes, getting only a P0353. Checked for any loose connections, none found. Researched here, found a lot about Fuel Pump Control Module. Surprisingly, it was in very good shape compared to what I read about on forums. Very little corrosion, no swelling. Cleaned frame and module up and reinstalled. Bought new coil pack from AZ, installed and get good crank but no start. Checked every fuse in box, none blown. Put old coil back in and starts on first try, but still rough, same as before. Drive to Adv to check codes, still only P0353 (not even any other pending). Read more on here, everyone seems to suggest new plugs in this situation, so I went with the Motorcraft Platinum gapped to .053 on all 6 (old were Motorcraft Platinum also). Plug wires look good but I did not ohm them out. Starts right up but runs very rough still. Buy new coil pack from Adv, install and same as one from AZ, cranks but wont start. Did not see any damaged wires near what I think is the accumulator, but will check again tomorrow in daylight rather than flashlight. Have checked the emergency fuel switch frequently also. New fuel and air filters, > half tank gas all this time.
Feel pretty confident if I put the old coil pack back in it would go back to rough idle. Will likely do that tomorrow. Thinking of changing plug wires but trying not to just throw parts at it. Don't see that it is PCM, but I could be wrong. Not sure why neither new coil pack would start.
Thinking of
1 - Verify flow at fuel filter
2 - Ohm plug wires or just replace
3 - Replace fuel pump control module
I'm frustrated, looking for some guidance. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
01-23-2013, 07:50 PM
#2
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description
Article by
Dale Toalston
ASE Certified Technician
Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
What does that mean?
The COP (coil on plug) ignition system is what is used on most modern engines. There is an individual coil for each cylinder that is controlled by the PCM (powertrain control module). It eliminates the need for spark plug wires by putting the coil right above the sparkplug. Two wires are dedicated to each coil. One is a battery feed usually from the power distribution center. The other wire is the coil driver circuit from the PCM. The PCM grounds/ungrounds this circuit to activate or deactivate the coil. The coil driver circuit is monitored by the PCM for faults
If an open or a short is detected in the driver circuit for coil number 3, a P0353 may set. Also, depending on the vehicle, the PCM may also shut down the fuel injector to the cylinder also.
Symptoms
Symptoms of a P0353 DTC may include:
MIL (Malfunction indicator lamp) illumination
Engine misfire may be present or intermittent
Causes
Potential causes of a P0353 code include:
Short to voltage or ground on COP driver circuit
Open on COP driver circuit
Loose connection at coil or broken connector locks
Bad Coil (COP)
Faulty Powertrain Control Module
Possible Solutions
Is the engine misfiring presently? If not, the problem is likely intermittent. Try wiggle testing the wiring at the #3 coil and along the wiring harness to the PCM. If manipulating the wiring causes the misfire to surface, repair the wiring problem. Check for poor connection at the coil connector. Verify the harness isn't misrouted or chafing on anything. Repair as necessary
If the engine is misfiring presently, stop the engine and disconnect the #3 coil wiring connector. Then start the engine and check for a driver signal to the #3 coil. Using a scope will give you a visual pattern to observe, but since most people don't have access to one there's an easier way. Use a Voltmeter in AC Hertz scale and see if there's a Hz reading of between 5 and 20 or so that indicates the driver is working. If there is a Hertz signal, then replace the #3 ignition coil. It's likely bad. If you don't detect any frequency signal from the PCM on the ignition coil driver circuit indicating the PCM is grounding/ungrounding the circuit (or there is no visible pattern on the scope if you have one) then leave the coil disconnected and check for DC voltage on the driver circuit at the ignition coil connector. If there is any significant voltage on that wire then there is a short to voltage somewhere. Find the short and repair it.
If there is no voltage on the driver circuit, then turn the ignition off. Disconnect the PCM connector and check the continuity of the driver between the PCM and the coil. If there is no continuity repair the open or short to ground in the circuit. If continuity is present, then check for resistance between ground and the ignition coil connector. There should be infinite resistance. If there isn't, repair the short to ground in the coil driver circuit
NOTE: If the ignition coil driver signal wire is not open or shorted to voltage or ground and there is no trigger signal to the coil then suspect a faulty PCM coil driver. Also keep in mind that if the PCM driver is at fault, there may be a wiring problem that caused the PCM failure. It's a good idea to do the above check after PCM replacement to verify there won't be a repeat failure. If you find that the engine isn't misfiring, the coil is being triggered properly but P0353 is continually being reset, there is the possibility that the PCM coil monitoring system may be faulty.
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0353
OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description
Article by
Dale Toalston
ASE Certified Technician
Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
What does that mean?
The COP (coil on plug) ignition system is what is used on most modern engines. There is an individual coil for each cylinder that is controlled by the PCM (powertrain control module). It eliminates the need for spark plug wires by putting the coil right above the sparkplug. Two wires are dedicated to each coil. One is a battery feed usually from the power distribution center. The other wire is the coil driver circuit from the PCM. The PCM grounds/ungrounds this circuit to activate or deactivate the coil. The coil driver circuit is monitored by the PCM for faults
If an open or a short is detected in the driver circuit for coil number 3, a P0353 may set. Also, depending on the vehicle, the PCM may also shut down the fuel injector to the cylinder also.
Symptoms
Symptoms of a P0353 DTC may include:
MIL (Malfunction indicator lamp) illumination
Engine misfire may be present or intermittent
Causes
Potential causes of a P0353 code include:
Short to voltage or ground on COP driver circuit
Open on COP driver circuit
Loose connection at coil or broken connector locks
Bad Coil (COP)
Faulty Powertrain Control Module
Possible Solutions
Is the engine misfiring presently? If not, the problem is likely intermittent. Try wiggle testing the wiring at the #3 coil and along the wiring harness to the PCM. If manipulating the wiring causes the misfire to surface, repair the wiring problem. Check for poor connection at the coil connector. Verify the harness isn't misrouted or chafing on anything. Repair as necessary
If the engine is misfiring presently, stop the engine and disconnect the #3 coil wiring connector. Then start the engine and check for a driver signal to the #3 coil. Using a scope will give you a visual pattern to observe, but since most people don't have access to one there's an easier way. Use a Voltmeter in AC Hertz scale and see if there's a Hz reading of between 5 and 20 or so that indicates the driver is working. If there is a Hertz signal, then replace the #3 ignition coil. It's likely bad. If you don't detect any frequency signal from the PCM on the ignition coil driver circuit indicating the PCM is grounding/ungrounding the circuit (or there is no visible pattern on the scope if you have one) then leave the coil disconnected and check for DC voltage on the driver circuit at the ignition coil connector. If there is any significant voltage on that wire then there is a short to voltage somewhere. Find the short and repair it.
If there is no voltage on the driver circuit, then turn the ignition off. Disconnect the PCM connector and check the continuity of the driver between the PCM and the coil. If there is no continuity repair the open or short to ground in the circuit. If continuity is present, then check for resistance between ground and the ignition coil connector. There should be infinite resistance. If there isn't, repair the short to ground in the coil driver circuit
NOTE: If the ignition coil driver signal wire is not open or shorted to voltage or ground and there is no trigger signal to the coil then suspect a faulty PCM coil driver. Also keep in mind that if the PCM driver is at fault, there may be a wiring problem that caused the PCM failure. It's a good idea to do the above check after PCM replacement to verify there won't be a repeat failure. If you find that the engine isn't misfiring, the coil is being triggered properly but P0353 is continually being reset, there is the possibility that the PCM coil monitoring system may be faulty.
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0353
02-07-2013, 01:50 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For the sake of those that get here via Google or Bing, I will put more notes:
Replaced plug wires with no change. Cleaned TB and MAF, no change. Replaced Crankshaft position sensor, no change. Finally took out PCM and had it tested, bad coil driver output. Opened PCM and found bad coil driver and wounded resistor that powers coil drivers. Check original coil pack, found 1 bad secondary coil. Repaired PCM, bought new coil pack again and verified it was good.
So, from start of problem to now, I have replaced:
- plugs (Motorcraft)
- plug wires (Autolite)
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (BWD)
- Coil pack (BWD)
It looks like the issue was either the coil pack that killed the PCM or the PCM that killed the coil pack. I'm guessing the coil pack did it.
Will post a little more of what I learned later when I verify all is good.
Replaced plug wires with no change. Cleaned TB and MAF, no change. Replaced Crankshaft position sensor, no change. Finally took out PCM and had it tested, bad coil driver output. Opened PCM and found bad coil driver and wounded resistor that powers coil drivers. Check original coil pack, found 1 bad secondary coil. Repaired PCM, bought new coil pack again and verified it was good.
So, from start of problem to now, I have replaced:
- plugs (Motorcraft)
- plug wires (Autolite)
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (BWD)
- Coil pack (BWD)
It looks like the issue was either the coil pack that killed the PCM or the PCM that killed the coil pack. I'm guessing the coil pack did it.
Will post a little more of what I learned later when I verify all is good.
02-07-2013, 11:09 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Truck runs like new now. It was a combo of PCM bad and secondary coil bad on coil pack. All the other stuff (other than crankshaft position sensor) was needed anyway at 111k, so I don't feel like I wasted parts.
2 errors in my troubleshooting:
1 - I did not check the coil pack directly, would have found bad coil right away instead of replacing, problem not going away, so I assumed coil pack was not issue
2 - I did not isolate the PCM sooner. If I had done #1 sooner, then I would likely have got to #2 sooner.
Isolate each part and test individually. In my hurry to get it fixed, I tried to cut corners and ended up costing me more time.
2 errors in my troubleshooting:
1 - I did not check the coil pack directly, would have found bad coil right away instead of replacing, problem not going away, so I assumed coil pack was not issue
2 - I did not isolate the PCM sooner. If I had done #1 sooner, then I would likely have got to #2 sooner.
Isolate each part and test individually. In my hurry to get it fixed, I tried to cut corners and ended up costing me more time.
10-17-2013, 05:51 AM
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: florida
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am having the same problem with my 08 F-150 4.2
Were you able to repair your PCM yourself or did someone else actually do the repair.
Thanks for all the details on your pcm problems
Were you able to repair your PCM yourself or did someone else actually do the repair.
Thanks for all the details on your pcm problems
Last edited by fladale; 10-17-2013 at 05:59 AM. Reason: spelling error
10-12-2018, 11:38 AM
#7
For the sake of those that get here via Google or Bing, I will put more notes:
Replaced plug wires with no change. Cleaned TB and MAF, no change. Replaced Crankshaft position sensor, no change. Finally took out PCM and had it tested, bad coil driver output. Opened PCM and found bad coil driver and wounded resistor that powers coil drivers. Check original coil pack, found 1 bad secondary coil. Repaired PCM, bought new coil pack again and verified it was good.
So, from start of problem to now, I have replaced:
- plugs (Motorcraft)
- plug wires (Autolite)
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (BWD)
- Coil pack (BWD)
It looks like the issue was either the coil pack that killed the PCM or the PCM that killed the coil pack. I'm guessing the coil pack did it.
Will post a little more of what I learned later when I verify all is good.
Replaced plug wires with no change. Cleaned TB and MAF, no change. Replaced Crankshaft position sensor, no change. Finally took out PCM and had it tested, bad coil driver output. Opened PCM and found bad coil driver and wounded resistor that powers coil drivers. Check original coil pack, found 1 bad secondary coil. Repaired PCM, bought new coil pack again and verified it was good.
So, from start of problem to now, I have replaced:
- plugs (Motorcraft)
- plug wires (Autolite)
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (BWD)
- Coil pack (BWD)
It looks like the issue was either the coil pack that killed the PCM or the PCM that killed the coil pack. I'm guessing the coil pack did it.
Will post a little more of what I learned later when I verify all is good.
Driving kids to school and after slowing down, left in 2nd gear (manual transmission). It jerked really bad and the truck then stalled. I was able to turn back on (limp mode) and dropped off kids like normal. Upon returning home, decided to check spark plugs: found cylinder 2 plug was very loose (no tension or force used when turning my socket wrench) as I removed the plug. Found it was very "sooty". Also, assumed the coil pack was defective, and I replaced it with an ECONOMY brand at AZ. Soon to realize, the issue was still there. Luckily for me, I had just purchased the vehicle at a used auto dealership and I purchased the extended warranty. So I had it towed to the Ford Dealership where it is sitting right now. They called me back to tell me it was just a coil pack. I said: "OK, Replace it and call me after you've test driven it to confirm the issue has been corrected". They called back to say: "Sorry, the coil pack wasn't the problem. the issue is with the PCM. We're having a hard time finding a replacement and once we do, we'll tell you how long before you can get your truck back".
I just wish I had joined this FORUM before sending the truck to the shop, because now they'll keep it until it's repaired... Anyhow, I will see if the new PCM repaires the issue.
