ericantonio

Thank you all for following, if you were, my h20 and timing chain adventures. I think it's really time for a new engine. It's 2017, the stars are aligned, I have the $$ and this is it. I can't overthink this and I'll just go for it.

1. I have a GREAT mechanic who calls me with updates and sends me pics.
2. He works clean at his own garage and works at a shop. His garage is how I would envision a garage if I were to set it up (extension cords from ceiling, a whole bunch of snap on boxes, 2 engines on the stand, very very clean epoxy floor.
3. I have so many stuff that I already changed around the block, just want some pointers for what to get add-ons.

I think I'll do this slowly meaning, I'll order the engine block and ship it to him, and get little parts here and there slowly so he can just add it on while its on a stand.

As I've been reading, long blocks usually come with oil pump and gaskets.
Besides the obvious (to a layman like me), things like the following SHOULD be changed right?

1. All hoses probably, some of the shorter coolant hoses are dry and brittle.
2. Should I get my injectors "rebuilt" (cleaned and stuff) or do you recommend after market injectors? I'm sure Motorcraft ones are great but they are 150 bucks a piece.
3. Oil pan should be good right? Just need gaskets
3. Oil pump sometimes comes with new long block? How about the pipe? Are they usually good to go?
4. Pulleys replaced probably a good idea. They aren't expensive
5. Motorcraft distributor, plugs and wires, not that expensive and worth it on new engine eh?
6. Parts I've replaced and could be swamped: starter, PCV, IC, IAC, TPS, accelerator cable, thermometer, thermometer housing, vacuum lines, belt, cleaned out throttle, intake manifold should be cleaned inside.
7. I do love a chrome valve cover but cleaning may be a pain, maybe the basic ford one that says "Ford" on it with the ridge lines.
8. I've read that an e303 cam is worth it on these F150 and if I'm rebuilding, it's a good investment?
9. As he was working on my h2o pump and timing chain, he said "balancer isn't great and something you should get with a new engine"

Anything else I'm missing? I'd love to get California legal headers, any suggestions? Can they be installed before dropping in the motor? Or is that afterwards?

Man, I really can't wait to have a "clean" looking engine. I'm more of a RoadKill guy and HotRod garage type car guy. Rough looking car on the outside and a nice clean engine on the inside. kinda like the way I like my women.


Last thing, any online recommendations for long block engines? I'm not getting a Blueprint engine or Coyote engine, just a basic build. I'm looking at this one:

https://www.powertrainproducts.net/f...uck-p/1673.htm

BLDTruth

First things first, see how she drives when you get it back with the new timing chain .

Have you read qdeezie's thread on building a 300-ish hp 302?

https://www.f150forum.com/f10/bit-in...l-302s-276512/

Next thing I would want to address if I were you - even before the engine - you have a 302 with an automatic transmission and 3.08 gears. This is a lethal combination for anyone wanting a truck to get up and go. You need at least a 3.55 ratio, and if it were me, I would be thinking 3.73 or even 4:10. Why? Because 302's have very weak low end torque, and they need to get up above 2000 rpms (at a minimum) before you really feel your back pressed against the seat.

The only reason I could see keeping the 3.08 is if you drive a LOT on the highway - and even then I would change to 3.55's. A 3.55 ratio would put your 65 mph cruising rpms at right about 1750 (in OD). 4.10 ratio would be closer to 2000 rpms. You are probably kicking at about 1500 rpms at that speed right now.

You should be able to find a yard that has a 3.55 rear end - ideally a limited slip since you are 2WD. It's a cheap and easy swap - one you could do with a buddy in a driveway, or have your mechanic do in a couple of hours with the right setup. A 4.10 rear end only came from the factory in the Ford Lightning, so it will be harder to find.

ericantonio

Yes absolutely!! And of course, he mentioned he noticed a low compression when starting it up so maybe its on the low end of the acceptable compression. Is there such a thing? An acceptable range?

I have and that was while ago. It was way over my head. But now, I've watched a lot of videos, read a lot of information, watched a bunch of videos again, talked to a bunch of people, and now I can understand some of that thread. I'll look at it again today. Don't want to overspend $ on this as you'll see why and I vision for what I want.

Absolutely! It's part of my next dream. And I'll tell you why.

What I really want is 33" wheels, a new [rebuilt] engine, doesn't have to be 300 HP, just decent, sort of stock'ish but clean, and the correct gearing in the back. So starting to look for a set of USED steel 5x5x10 with 1.5" backspacing. I think these 90's F150s look perfect with 33's, what do you think?.

Great info!!! I do have LMK Parts nearby here in Socal and I can start searching around.


Apparently on the Jeep Forums, there's a guy in SoCal that everyone goes to. He's some sort axle expert and THAT'S ALL HE DOES for the 4wheelers here in SoCal. And he has the best prices. People call him up apparently, set up an appointment, and he can do it in a few hours at his place or he comes to you. So that's another option. There is that Bronco graveyard website and I can get a full set of 4.10 rebuild kit for $520 or just the ring and pinion for over $200. Plus the install.

So lots to think about this year!