dewman

You are not supposed to drive in 4x4 on dry pavement. It can damage your transfer case and front driveline. That is why your front end is making noises and bucking when you turn.

t.crawford714

I'm not on pavement, its on the lake.

CRAZY

It doesn't matter if it is dry, wet, or muddy, driving in 4-hi or 4-lo will cause damage to your transcase and front driveline. It's just the fact that the drier it is the worse it is for your truck. Unless you have the capability of being in 4-hi all times, as that's the way the truck was made, your causing damage everytime you turn the wheel in hi or low fours.

Kubb 147

I just drove in 3 inches of snow and mine still bucks. I was actually kinda disapointed... I asked an old friend of mine why this was and he explained it to me like this. The longer the wheel base the more it will buck due to the radius verses the wheel base length. Mathmaticaly, the numbers do not match like on a short base like a bronco or even a jeep. The back wheels are "pushing" while the front wheels are trying to turn. Therefore the front wheels are being pushed forward while trying to turn at the same time. This doesnt happen on a bronco or a jeep very bad cause they have a shorter wheel base. So my solution is while in 4x4, I make wide turns. As if I I'm pulling a 16 ft trailer. That way I get less bucking and i'm not hurting anything underneath.

Good old Bill

I think the "hubs" questioned has been answered. A comment was made about traction lock in the front axle, I wasn't aware that it was even an option. I too have a 4X4 with manual shift and manual hubs, I know exactly the bucking bronco effect in tight turns, I thought it was the tight turn exceeding the axle u-joint range of movement. I have LS in back axle but not the front, while on jacks or stands, with 2WD selected and tranny in neutral but hubs locked in, my front wheels turn in oposited direction to each other, while my rears turn same direction. Please try this on yours. A friend of mine has a Jeep, he claims he put in lockers in his front end, watching him turn around on gravel roads, his jeep appears to be stuck on flat ground.

casey

as stated above you are never supposed to drive on dry pavement locked in four wheel, if you do it will most deff hope all over the place. but if youve got noise such as clicking and or popping, then your u-joints are bad. mine were bad and made all kinds of noise and when replaced now turns smooth as hell.

casey

so the noise in the front is prob bad u-joints in your front axles. mine would pop and click and where real bad. replaced em and even in 4wheel hi driving on the road it is smooth as silk.

t.crawford714

How much would replacing u joints cost?

casey

well that all depends on which ones you buy. they range from 23 to 50 bucks and even up for ones that will not break for sure. its not that much, but the work is!!!!!!! you have to completly tare apart your front end. not the diff but everything else. take off your hubs(auto or manual) and your caliper, then your retaining washers and remove your bearings and rotor. this is a good time to replace or grease your bearings. ther is a (spindle) that your axle goes thro that has to come off so you can pull your axle out. its five bolts that are a real pain. and when you get them off be ready to beat the hell out of it cause they NEVER just come off. and they dont make those spindles anymore so dont hurt it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! youll also need the seal for the axle and the rear bearing and a dust (sheild) seal. napa auto parts is the only one that has all those seals, not even my local ford dealer had them. once all thats out pull out the axle and replace the u-joint, and put it all back together useing all the new parts!!!!! a lot of work but worth it!!!!!!!! and i do believe i spent like 40 bucks for seals-each side. the passenger side is the same but you have to disconnect the axle shaft as it is a two piece axle.