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My Haynes says "Radius Arm to Rear Bracket 80 - 120 ft/lbs"
That project was on my list for this weekend but it's raining up here! I ordered all new hardware for the brackets so I could replace the old ones after I changed the bushings, but Bronco GY sent all 3/8" bolts/nuts instead of 1/2" and 9/16". So now I'm thinking I'll just loosed the shock and spring and try my luck at moving the arm forward with a ratchet strap around the bumper. Sound like a plan or should I try to find the right hardware then grind out the 3 rivets off the drivers side and take off the brackets? Inquiring minds want to know...
Thanks Clint - I had found the 80-120 spec but wasn't sure if I should stick to factory spec for poly - though the instructions does say torque to factory spec. Hmmmm.
I'd grind the rivets out and replace them with the correct hardware - Do you have a knecht's near you? The one by me carries a bunch of grade 8 hardware.
Thanks Clint - I had found the 80-120 spec but wasn't sure if I should stick to factory spec for poly - though the instructions does say torque to factory spec. Hmmmm.
I'd grind the rivets out and replace them with the correct hardware - Do you have a knecht's near you? The one by me carries a bunch of grade 8 hardware.
I think there's one up in Portland, but I do have O'Reillys and Napa close by that I could check. Ace didn't have all that I needed...
But I'll find it, then get to grindin!! Thanks for your advise!
I got the headlights installed and aimed Thursday evening; it sure changed the look of the front of the truck. The job was easy once I figured out the Engineer puzzle/clip holding the lights in place. Now, from 25 feet, my truck looks Dealer new. At 25 inches, it has 24 years of tool scratches and 1 dent stealing the show. Some folks are paying big money to have these details replicated in their finish where I can call mine "authentic patina".
Since I slept most of this past weekend, I figure to go to a big ol' salvage yard in Jacksonville, Fl this weekend to scrounge for parts. This is becoming a pilgrimage as their 50% off sale and a smear of elbow grease can yield major savings. I can look at their vehicle inventory online and make a targeted plan of which vehicles may have what I want. Beats going to yards with 1 or 2 trucks... Gonna cruise through looking for an aftermarket steering box or one with a paper toe-tag or other indicator that it may be recent; I'll check the E Series too. Several Chevy and Ford trucks have sliding rear windows I can use for my truck and camper top, there are Honda cars that may have parts for the 3rd family vehicle, and I might even get a set of GT40P heads if I have the energy and time. I am building a list and have asked friends of needs or wants they may have. Makes for a fun day!
I think there's one up in Portland, but I do have O'Reillys and Napa close by that I could check. Ace didn't have all that I needed...
But I'll find it, then get to grindin!! Thanks for your advise!
clint 6,
You could check a tractor or Ag place for hardware too. Then there's the ol innernet too. If you are going to await delivery, why not exchange the hardware at Bronco Graveyard? Is the bracket and frame drilled for larger hardware?
I'll chime in on the work under the truck. If you choose to swing the axle forward, you'll hafta take the tie rod assembly loose from the Pitman arm or the steering box, as this will resist the horizontal movement. I've done this on my Son's truck (Poly) and mine (rubber); if I ever do it again, I am going to try the bracket method if the suspension and steering parts are not in need of a rebuild.
clint 6,
You could check a tractor or Ag place for hardware too. Then there's the ol innernet too. If you are going to await delivery, why not exchange the hardware at Bronco Graveyard? Is the bracket and frame drilled for larger hardware?
I'll chime in on the work under the truck. If you choose to swing the axle forward, you'll hafta take the tie rod assembly loose from the Pitman arm or the steering box, as this will resist the horizontal movement. I've done this on my Son's truck (Poly) and mine (rubber); if I ever do it again, I am going to try the bracket method if the suspension and steering parts are not in need of a rebuild.
I ended up getting everything I needed here: https://www.boltdepot.com/ Got everything all Grade 8 for both sides for just $20 with the shipping. Ordered Saturday, they shipped today. As far as returning stuff to BGY, they charge a re-stock fee, plus I'd have to pay shipping, so I'd only get back about 5 bucks! So I just tossed the bolts in the toolbox to save for a rainy day! I just have 3 rivets to get out, so hopefully it won't take too long. Saw a air chisel at HF that I might just go get to make the rivet removal easier... Always a good excuse to buy more tools!
What is the trick to removing the headlights? The book shows removing nuts, but I see something like clips or ???? I think one of my lights has a crack so I figured I might try to find replacements first, THEN, remove them. BUT, I want to know how to first.
Settle in; this is lengthy. I removed the battery and the tray and the coolant/windshield fluid bottle for a lot easier access.
Remove the door (Ford's nomenclature for the decorative frame) from the headlight, turn signal, running light assembly. There are 2 styles - 1 has 4 screws as shown in the detail below. The other style - ours, has 2 screws from the top (#2) and 2-11mm nuts (#9) in the bar between the headlight and parking light. These nuts are removed from behind the headlight. Unplug the light connectors from the running lights and turn signals (3ea) by rotating counter-clockwise 90*, and set the door aside.
Now, for the headlight:
Looking at the photo below, the clips look like this. Each headlight has 3 clips; 2 on the top and 1 on the outboard side. These clips engage a vertical slot in the black nylon adjustment nut on the headlight, visible after the nut is passed through a corresponding hole in the plastic mounting bracket/bucket attached to the radiator core support.
This is the process that worked best for me. To remove the clip, first take a flat head screwdriver and disengage the z-ish shaped teeth from the nut grooves by physically bending the tabs outward SLIGHTLY. To do this, insert the screwdriver straight down and gently push on the ear with the round hole in with a downward effort. Note: Upon removal, the clip can be straightened or replaced.
Once the z-ish shaped tabs have clearance, take the screwdriver and engage the square notch on top and rotate the clip a bit to allow the clip to rest on the molded plastic tab on which it engages, rather than settle around it.
Finally, using pliers, grasp the clip and pull/tug straight upward. A buddy suggested using a paint can lid key instead to combine the last 2 steps.
Practice on the top clips before attempting to remove the shrouded side clip; the process is the same but the location provides a challenge.
There is surely a specialty tool for this; I didn't look for it and probably wouldn't pay for it. I tried 8" long snap-ring pliers and a pair of 12" long, curved needle-nose pliers used as snap-ring pliers, to no avail. Longer, more stout snap-ring pliers with 90* pins would more than likely work.
Last edited by stxlt; 06-12-2018 at 11:30 AM.
Reason: shucks
The headlight door and parking light covers the lower, 3rd clip location on my '93; the door has to be removed for unfettered access. The door also covers the screws mounting the headlight to the nylon nuts and adjusters. The 3rd clip could be removed with longer tools and much finesse and patience from above; removing the door was so much easier and the method illustrated in the 1993 Service Manual.
Looking at the link, that is an earlier headlight design and is not correct for the 92-96/7 style.
06-08-2018, 07:17 PM
