What did you do to your truck today?
04-05-2014, 02:03 AM
04-05-2014, 07:17 AM
Backing plates rot out in the rear
Weaker rear differential
Unit bearings wear on the front
Brake caliper slides suck.
Lol.
But yes. Its a great upgrade! I can't wait for this cold weather to quit so I can put my 20's back on.
04-05-2014, 11:39 AM
As for the 10.5 being weaker then the 10.25 rear that is ridicules!
04-06-2014, 12:22 PM
I have a '92 F-150. I bought my truck brand new. I've driven it 150,000 miles. It was my daily driver for 14 years. I drove it 25 miles to work one way. I can't keep mufflers in it. I've replaced 6 since it was new. I got wise and bought lifetime warrantied Napa brand mufflers, but I still have to do the work. One person told me the carbon canister is at fault, but he had no particulars. Any ideas? Also the serpentine belt only lasts 5,000 miles before it starts screeching and carrying on. One person told me that the a/c bracket was out of line, so I pulled the plug on the clutch as well as it's pulley and put on a shorter belt, bypassing the a/c. No improvement. I couldn't see anything crooked, but he was a Ford expert.
I have replaced the radiator, alternator, steering pump, brake master cylinder, bearings in the steering column (explain that in 150,000 miles), computer (more on that later), Throttle pos. sensor, idle air solenoid valve, map sensor, egr valve. I've even had to replace the drivers side widow motor. The truck had to be repainted after a year, because the factory forgot the clear coat. All this to say that it's been a wild ride. Other than I wish it had limited slip front differential, I have no complaints about the basic truck.
Recently she started acting up. I read the codes and it repeatedly told me that the egr valve and oxygen sensor were bad. I replaced the egr valve and the code was still present. I cleared the code, but it didn't clear. After repeated code readings it was telling me that the engine was both too hot and too cold. Now I backtrack. The computer was bad from the factory. The truck was also out of line from the factory and ruined it's original tires. Never needed adjustment since. Anyway. After four trips to the dealership, I confronted the mechanic. He was lost. I listened to what he had checked and realized that he had tested all of the inputs, they were good and was getting bad outputs from the computer. I told him to change the computer. Roll ahead 17 years and I discovered that the output to the fuel pump was messing up. I made the mistake of getting a computer from Advance Auto Parts. It lasted 5 years or so and died again.
I pulled the computer, got out my shop manual and using the pin-out diagram, I checked every single input and output for grounds, etc. I also came here and elsewhere and read every articles that described my running problem. The truck would start fine and run fine for a few minutes then hesitate and stall when you gave it gas. The consensus seemed to be idle air solenoid valve. Mind you, I had ordered the computer, but wouldn't put it in until I was reasonably satisfied that all was well. The IAC didn't make the slightest difference, but the throttle position sensor improved things. I still had a stalling problem, until I changed the map sensor. Now I just had a little roughness at idle and since I had not done a tune-up in awhile, I decided to let 'er have it. New cap, rotor, wires, plugs and a high performance coil. She idles smooth as silk now. Now I'm worried about the fuel pump. My best ever car ever '99 Taurus puked hers out at 160,000 and I got to experience what a few years makes in difficulty of replacement. Used to be two bolts and you could get right to it.
Anyway, I'm going to replace the pump. I hope my aftermarket parts are a cut above the originals. If so she'll go another 100,000 without incident. Ha!
Thanks for letting me blow off steam. I hope that someone gets something out of my odyssey. candyspaw
I have replaced the radiator, alternator, steering pump, brake master cylinder, bearings in the steering column (explain that in 150,000 miles), computer (more on that later), Throttle pos. sensor, idle air solenoid valve, map sensor, egr valve. I've even had to replace the drivers side widow motor. The truck had to be repainted after a year, because the factory forgot the clear coat. All this to say that it's been a wild ride. Other than I wish it had limited slip front differential, I have no complaints about the basic truck.
Recently she started acting up. I read the codes and it repeatedly told me that the egr valve and oxygen sensor were bad. I replaced the egr valve and the code was still present. I cleared the code, but it didn't clear. After repeated code readings it was telling me that the engine was both too hot and too cold. Now I backtrack. The computer was bad from the factory. The truck was also out of line from the factory and ruined it's original tires. Never needed adjustment since. Anyway. After four trips to the dealership, I confronted the mechanic. He was lost. I listened to what he had checked and realized that he had tested all of the inputs, they were good and was getting bad outputs from the computer. I told him to change the computer. Roll ahead 17 years and I discovered that the output to the fuel pump was messing up. I made the mistake of getting a computer from Advance Auto Parts. It lasted 5 years or so and died again.
I pulled the computer, got out my shop manual and using the pin-out diagram, I checked every single input and output for grounds, etc. I also came here and elsewhere and read every articles that described my running problem. The truck would start fine and run fine for a few minutes then hesitate and stall when you gave it gas. The consensus seemed to be idle air solenoid valve. Mind you, I had ordered the computer, but wouldn't put it in until I was reasonably satisfied that all was well. The IAC didn't make the slightest difference, but the throttle position sensor improved things. I still had a stalling problem, until I changed the map sensor. Now I just had a little roughness at idle and since I had not done a tune-up in awhile, I decided to let 'er have it. New cap, rotor, wires, plugs and a high performance coil. She idles smooth as silk now. Now I'm worried about the fuel pump. My best ever car ever '99 Taurus puked hers out at 160,000 and I got to experience what a few years makes in difficulty of replacement. Used to be two bolts and you could get right to it.
Anyway, I'm going to replace the pump. I hope my aftermarket parts are a cut above the originals. If so she'll go another 100,000 without incident. Ha!
Thanks for letting me blow off steam. I hope that someone gets something out of my odyssey. candyspaw
04-06-2014, 02:12 PM
Okie.
I have a '92 F-150. I bought my truck brand new. I've driven it 150,000 miles. It was my daily driver for 14 years. I drove it 25 miles to work one way. I can't keep mufflers in it. I've replaced 6 since it was new. I got wise and bought lifetime warrantied Napa brand mufflers, but I still have to do the work. One person told me the carbon canister is at fault, but he had no particulars. Any ideas? Also the serpentine belt only lasts 5,000 miles before it starts screeching and carrying on. One person told me that the a/c bracket was out of line, so I pulled the plug on the clutch as well as it's pulley and put on a shorter belt, bypassing the a/c. No improvement. I couldn't see anything crooked, but he was a Ford expert.
I have replaced the radiator, alternator, steering pump, brake master cylinder, bearings in the steering column (explain that in 150,000 miles), computer (more on that later), Throttle pos. sensor, idle air solenoid valve, map sensor, egr valve. I've even had to replace the drivers side widow motor. The truck had to be repainted after a year, because the factory forgot the clear coat. All this to say that it's been a wild ride. Other than I wish it had limited slip front differential, I have no complaints about the basic truck.
Recently she started acting up. I read the codes and it repeatedly told me that the egr valve and oxygen sensor were bad. I replaced the egr valve and the code was still present. I cleared the code, but it didn't clear. After repeated code readings it was telling me that the engine was both too hot and too cold. Now I backtrack. The computer was bad from the factory. The truck was also out of line from the factory and ruined it's original tires. Never needed adjustment since. Anyway. After four trips to the dealership, I confronted the mechanic. He was lost. I listened to what he had checked and realized that he had tested all of the inputs, they were good and was getting bad outputs from the computer. I told him to change the computer. Roll ahead 17 years and I discovered that the output to the fuel pump was messing up. I made the mistake of getting a computer from Advance Auto Parts. It lasted 5 years or so and died again.
I pulled the computer, got out my shop manual and using the pin-out diagram, I checked every single input and output for grounds, etc. I also came here and elsewhere and read every articles that described my running problem. The truck would start fine and run fine for a few minutes then hesitate and stall when you gave it gas. The consensus seemed to be idle air solenoid valve. Mind you, I had ordered the computer, but wouldn't put it in until I was reasonably satisfied that all was well. The IAC didn't make the slightest difference, but the throttle position sensor improved things. I still had a stalling problem, until I changed the map sensor. Now I just had a little roughness at idle and since I had not done a tune-up in awhile, I decided to let 'er have it. New cap, rotor, wires, plugs and a high performance coil. She idles smooth as silk now. Now I'm worried about the fuel pump. My best ever car ever '99 Taurus puked hers out at 160,000 and I got to experience what a few years makes in difficulty of replacement. Used to be two bolts and you could get right to it.
Anyway, I'm going to replace the pump. I hope my aftermarket parts are a cut above the originals. If so she'll go another 100,000 without incident. Ha!
Thanks for letting me blow off steam. I hope that someone gets something out of my odyssey. candyspaw
I have replaced the radiator, alternator, steering pump, brake master cylinder, bearings in the steering column (explain that in 150,000 miles), computer (more on that later), Throttle pos. sensor, idle air solenoid valve, map sensor, egr valve. I've even had to replace the drivers side widow motor. The truck had to be repainted after a year, because the factory forgot the clear coat. All this to say that it's been a wild ride. Other than I wish it had limited slip front differential, I have no complaints about the basic truck.
Recently she started acting up. I read the codes and it repeatedly told me that the egr valve and oxygen sensor were bad. I replaced the egr valve and the code was still present. I cleared the code, but it didn't clear. After repeated code readings it was telling me that the engine was both too hot and too cold. Now I backtrack. The computer was bad from the factory. The truck was also out of line from the factory and ruined it's original tires. Never needed adjustment since. Anyway. After four trips to the dealership, I confronted the mechanic. He was lost. I listened to what he had checked and realized that he had tested all of the inputs, they were good and was getting bad outputs from the computer. I told him to change the computer. Roll ahead 17 years and I discovered that the output to the fuel pump was messing up. I made the mistake of getting a computer from Advance Auto Parts. It lasted 5 years or so and died again.
I pulled the computer, got out my shop manual and using the pin-out diagram, I checked every single input and output for grounds, etc. I also came here and elsewhere and read every articles that described my running problem. The truck would start fine and run fine for a few minutes then hesitate and stall when you gave it gas. The consensus seemed to be idle air solenoid valve. Mind you, I had ordered the computer, but wouldn't put it in until I was reasonably satisfied that all was well. The IAC didn't make the slightest difference, but the throttle position sensor improved things. I still had a stalling problem, until I changed the map sensor. Now I just had a little roughness at idle and since I had not done a tune-up in awhile, I decided to let 'er have it. New cap, rotor, wires, plugs and a high performance coil. She idles smooth as silk now. Now I'm worried about the fuel pump. My best ever car ever '99 Taurus puked hers out at 160,000 and I got to experience what a few years makes in difficulty of replacement. Used to be two bolts and you could get right to it.
Anyway, I'm going to replace the pump. I hope my aftermarket parts are a cut above the originals. If so she'll go another 100,000 without incident. Ha!
Thanks for letting me blow off steam. I hope that someone gets something out of my odyssey. candyspaw
04-06-2014, 02:14 PM
I have a '92 F-150. I bought my truck brand new. I've driven it 150,000 miles. It was my daily driver for 14 years. I drove it 25 miles to work one way. I can't keep mufflers in it. I've replaced 6 since it was new. I got wise and bought lifetime warrantied Napa brand mufflers, but I still have to do the work. One person told me the carbon canister is at fault, but he had no particulars. Any ideas? Also the serpentine belt only lasts 5,000 miles before it starts screeching and carrying on. One person told me that the a/c bracket was out of line, so I pulled the plug on the clutch as well as it's pulley and put on a shorter belt, bypassing the a/c. No improvement. I couldn't see anything crooked, but he was a Ford expert.
I have replaced the radiator, alternator, steering pump, brake master cylinder, bearings in the steering column (explain that in 150,000 miles), computer (more on that later), Throttle pos. sensor, idle air solenoid valve, map sensor, egr valve. I've even had to replace the drivers side widow motor. The truck had to be repainted after a year, because the factory forgot the clear coat. All this to say that it's been a wild ride. Other than I wish it had limited slip front differential, I have no complaints about the basic truck.
Recently she started acting up. I read the codes and it repeatedly told me that the egr valve and oxygen sensor were bad. I replaced the egr valve and the code was still present. I cleared the code, but it didn't clear. After repeated code readings it was telling me that the engine was both too hot and too cold. Now I backtrack. The computer was bad from the factory. The truck was also out of line from the factory and ruined it's original tires. Never needed adjustment since. Anyway. After four trips to the dealership, I confronted the mechanic. He was lost. I listened to what he had checked and realized that he had tested all of the inputs, they were good and was getting bad outputs from the computer. I told him to change the computer. Roll ahead 17 years and I discovered that the output to the fuel pump was messing up. I made the mistake of getting a computer from Advance Auto Parts. It lasted 5 years or so and died again.
I pulled the computer, got out my shop manual and using the pin-out diagram, I checked every single input and output for grounds, etc. I also came here and elsewhere and read every articles that described my running problem. The truck would start fine and run fine for a few minutes then hesitate and stall when you gave it gas. The consensus seemed to be idle air solenoid valve. Mind you, I had ordered the computer, but wouldn't put it in until I was reasonably satisfied that all was well. The IAC didn't make the slightest difference, but the throttle position sensor improved things. I still had a stalling problem, until I changed the map sensor. Now I just had a little roughness at idle and since I had not done a tune-up in awhile, I decided to let 'er have it. New cap, rotor, wires, plugs and a high performance coil. She idles smooth as silk now. Now I'm worried about the fuel pump. My best ever car ever '99 Taurus puked hers out at 160,000 and I got to experience what a few years makes in difficulty of replacement. Used to be two bolts and you could get right to it.
Anyway, I'm going to replace the pump. I hope my aftermarket parts are a cut above the originals. If so she'll go another 100,000 without incident. Ha!
Thanks for letting me blow off steam. I hope that someone gets something out of my odyssey. candyspaw
I have replaced the radiator, alternator, steering pump, brake master cylinder, bearings in the steering column (explain that in 150,000 miles), computer (more on that later), Throttle pos. sensor, idle air solenoid valve, map sensor, egr valve. I've even had to replace the drivers side widow motor. The truck had to be repainted after a year, because the factory forgot the clear coat. All this to say that it's been a wild ride. Other than I wish it had limited slip front differential, I have no complaints about the basic truck.
Recently she started acting up. I read the codes and it repeatedly told me that the egr valve and oxygen sensor were bad. I replaced the egr valve and the code was still present. I cleared the code, but it didn't clear. After repeated code readings it was telling me that the engine was both too hot and too cold. Now I backtrack. The computer was bad from the factory. The truck was also out of line from the factory and ruined it's original tires. Never needed adjustment since. Anyway. After four trips to the dealership, I confronted the mechanic. He was lost. I listened to what he had checked and realized that he had tested all of the inputs, they were good and was getting bad outputs from the computer. I told him to change the computer. Roll ahead 17 years and I discovered that the output to the fuel pump was messing up. I made the mistake of getting a computer from Advance Auto Parts. It lasted 5 years or so and died again.
I pulled the computer, got out my shop manual and using the pin-out diagram, I checked every single input and output for grounds, etc. I also came here and elsewhere and read every articles that described my running problem. The truck would start fine and run fine for a few minutes then hesitate and stall when you gave it gas. The consensus seemed to be idle air solenoid valve. Mind you, I had ordered the computer, but wouldn't put it in until I was reasonably satisfied that all was well. The IAC didn't make the slightest difference, but the throttle position sensor improved things. I still had a stalling problem, until I changed the map sensor. Now I just had a little roughness at idle and since I had not done a tune-up in awhile, I decided to let 'er have it. New cap, rotor, wires, plugs and a high performance coil. She idles smooth as silk now. Now I'm worried about the fuel pump. My best ever car ever '99 Taurus puked hers out at 160,000 and I got to experience what a few years makes in difficulty of replacement. Used to be two bolts and you could get right to it.
Anyway, I'm going to replace the pump. I hope my aftermarket parts are a cut above the originals. If so she'll go another 100,000 without incident. Ha!
Thanks for letting me blow off steam. I hope that someone gets something out of my odyssey. candyspaw
04-06-2014, 03:17 PM
lost my Car again...
Wow! Haha I guess we need to start a thread called my trucks life story! Wow dude just awesome! Welcome to the forum! I would love to read more on that but might want to start your own build thread for sure!
As for me I picked up a jeep cherrokee roof rack and might be installing it in my 1993 extended cab for a light bar/ roof storage.
As for me I picked up a jeep cherrokee roof rack and might be installing it in my 1993 extended cab for a light bar/ roof storage.
