ymeski56

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=35

gypsum

I'm almost affraid to use my code reader, I can only imagin what kind of codes I would get, maybe one of you have a bad pulley. roflmao!!!

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Junkyard parts aren't always the best bet. The furthest I've gone with making sure the EGR is working is by putting my finger on the EGR diaphragm and gassing the truck a bit. You should feel the diaphragm moving.

paulstanely45

The holes are not small enough for anyone to get their fingers into. I am starting to think that it could be air getting into the air intake manifold via a leak.

I started getting the weird idle problem after I put in the new distributor, and really reefed on the gas. Im thinking the excessive vacuum could have caused the leak?

I have checked all the vacuum hoses and cant see any leaks of any sort. The vacuum on the black hose seems pretty week since it goes into 3 different solenoids.

I had bought a new sensor today, and pretty much threw 60 bucks out the window.

I am going to go to the junkyard and get a new set of vacuum hoses and a new vacuum resevoir/canister. Also going to stuff another IAC in my pocket, and try cleaning mine.

Any thoughts would be great, I'll keep you guys updated.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

I know I felt mine working, I may have used something else other than my finger to feel the diaphragm. You can check the vacuum canister for rust which would cause a leak.

ymeski56

[QUOTE=ymeski56;293634]Make sure your at normal operating temp when timing. To check the solenoid also w/the engine at norm.op.temp., remove the Vac hose, put your finger over the hole and have someone raise the RPM above 2500. You will feel the suction. An easy way to check the integrity of the EGR Valve diaphragm, is to blow through the hose you just took off (w/ engine off) You should reach a resistance point and it should sustain. If you are able to continue to blow air, the diaphragm is ruptured!
For lack of a Vac pump, you can use your lungs on the opposite end of the EGR Valve vac hose. W/ the engine off, you will hear the valve mechanically function. It would have been easier to check it w/ the valve off. It was off, and you checked for blockage of the portways where it mounts on the air intake manifold, correct?
You can use an unlit propane torch at at a low flow anywhere you think you might be pulling air and listen for an idle or rpm response. Did you re-torque the air intake manifold? Just for the hell of it, I failed a smog test once because the rubber seal on my gas cap was cracked and didn't seal completely. Not being there to actually poke around, it can get kind or boring, so this suggestion is what they refer to in football as a "HAIL MARY PASS!". Somewhere in the 4 pages of this thread, you probably mentioned weather it was a MAP or MAF system, but I don't remember. What was it? I think it was MAF and I said remove it and clean w/ MAF or Electronic contact Cleaner. Yes, Nada? It seems like something we've covered might have been skipped or omitted. Still the same exhaust manfold or did that get changed out already?

paulstanely45

Exhaust manifold gasket change went smoothly. Truck runs and sounds better.

Plenum was not leaking, never bothered to tighten the bolts.

Good news, the code 332 is gone.

Let me summarize:

Parts replaced were: EGR solenoid, EGR valve, EGR sensor, and the Vacuum Canister/Resevoir

Parts that needed to be replaced: EGR solenoid (had a rattle), and the Vacuum Canister (small leak)

I believe the other parts I replaced were unnecessary, unfortunately.

Another precaution I took today was taking some silicone, and coating where the vacuum hose is slide into its rubber end to ensure no leaks could be possible.

The main problem I believe was the vacuum canister, after that part went in, the problem never came back up.


I thought I had ride myself of that bloody check engine light, but after a fair amount of driving, I got a code 172 again - "HEGO indicates system always lean". Granted, I had forgotten to plug-in one of the other vacuum switches, "Air 2" my book says. I hope that is what caused the light to come on with the code 172. Ill keep driving and keep you guys posted on that.

@ymeski - I noticed you live in CA, strict emission laws. Manitoba is sweet, if I want to take a 440 and throw it in a beat up old car or truck, who cares haha. Long as it passes a basic mechanical safety. Hell, if its before 1994 we dont even need a catalytic converter installed! Also, the truck uses a MAP.

ymeski56

After all that, you owe yourself this:http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...ht=timing+bump Including a K&N drop in filter, about $160. the best combination performance & MPG enhancement you can do, regardless of price. It really is the holy grail of engine mods. Note: Don't even think about a CAI mod w/o a MAF conversion! Map's are not engineered to accommodate that amount of flow. But the mod I'm referring to w/ the K&N drop in, seriously, will make you think you went up a engine size and w/better MPG. This is the only thing I've done to my truck(except I took the gap stretch and went 1 step further by side gaping my plugs, but the difference between a .056 gap & .056 sidegap isn't much). 87'302,87K-17/23 MPG-23@65mph (I do run 16BTDC rather than 13.5BTDC but 13.5 is still a quantum difference from stock 10BTDC.) You can bump the timing w/o the Ignition upgrade, but not the gap stretch. The gap stretch provides more complete detonation at a lower combustion chamber temp. This accommodates the increase in C/C temp associated w/a timing advance increase. although 13.5 is really only a moderate bump as are any C/C temp increase resulting.

paulstanely45

Thanks! I am really looking into getting better fuel mileage.

Im only doing about 13MPH city, Im hoping to bump that up a bit.