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Trying to figure out vacuum lines

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Old 02-12-2018, 09:16 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Chris_1 View Post
Remember, the EGR valve is a metal valve designed to carry exhaust gas and it's probably over 20 years old.
I would tell anyone having issues with theirs to replace it; just because if it's original it's probably due.
I'm going to assume that it's the original one going based off the look of it. I'm going to just replace it for good measure.
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:02 AM   #12
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Replacing the vacuum lines might sort out the EGR code - when you replace them all, disconnect the battery for an hour or so (overnight ideally) and then take her out for a spin and see if it throws the code again.
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Old 02-12-2018, 12:56 PM   #13
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There is no maintenance interval on the EGR valve - it's designed to last as long as the pistons. Mine is original with over 850Kmi, and the EGR still works as well as the pistons. If you suspect it has a fault, LEARN how it works, and then test it. Replacing parts blindly is NOT likely to fix anything - it usually causes problems, frustration, and wasted money. If you can't find the problem, pay someone who can - it's a better investment than throwing unnecessary parts at it. If it makes sense to you to change out old parts just because they're old, then it makes more sense to just change them ALL: buy a new truck.

This explains how the EGR system works:

(phone app link)
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:22 PM   #14
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BLD Truth is correct in that repairing the vacuum system and resetting the codes may solve your code problem.
As far as replacing the EGR valve anyway;
I don't believe in throwing parts at a problem to try to fix it.
Some parts however logically could stand to be replaced whether they actually cause a code to show up or not.
The EGR valve is a metal valve that has been subject to hot exhaust gases for decades.
Whether they're causing a computer code to show up or not, most original equipment EGR valves will be found to be a rusty, carboned up piece of crap that can't possibly seal as well as they did when new.
Whether to proactively change such a unit that seems to still be functioning to some degree or just keep driving it until the part just completely quits is a matter of your own personal maintenance schedule and budget.

2 schools of thought there; "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" and " I think I'll replace that now and make sure it's not going to be a problem in the forseeable future".

As for Steve83's comment about buying a new truck instead ; I have one. I just like my '95. But I like to keep it as dependable as it was when it was built.
Because if I can't depend on it, it's no damn good to me.
Just because it's old doesn't mean it has to be on the verge of breaking down because of one worn out part or another.

That's my approach to maintaining my own truck. Other's will have a different opinion, of course.
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:24 PM   #15
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Preventative maintenance. I am a big fan.
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Old 02-13-2018, 04:41 PM   #16
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I'm all about PMCS, too. My ~35-year-old truck with an ~860Kmi engine is as dependable as many (and MORE-dependable than some) newer vehicles because I maintain it thoroughly.

But changing a non-wearing part isn't maintenance - it's unnece$$ary replacement. If it's carboned-up, fix the problem that's causing the Carbon buildup, and clean the valve. But it will work with Carbon on it, and seal even better. Think about it - if the Carbon can build up on it, it can certainly fill in any small leaks. If it can't build up on a tiny leak, it can't build up on a valve that opens wide. Yes, it's exposed to hot exhaust. But so are the engine valves, the heads, the pistons, the block, the ex. manifolds, the ex. pipes, the cats, & the muffler. They're made for that exposure, and they don't need to be replaced unless there's some specific fault. Being rusty or sooty isn't a fault - it might be a SYMPTOM of a fault, but changing a dirty part won't prevent more dirt getting on the replacement.
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:11 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by 1995ford5.8 View Post
I came across that same thread! For sure going to be using that as a guide as I replace everything. So I'm assuming the yellow line goes to the TAD/TAB on the back of the engine, the the black one goes? I tried feeling around back there but had no luck. Also see that the write up was using an 88, has to be pretty similar to a 1995?
Hey man I have a '93 with the 5.8L. When I got my truck a few months, it was in pretty rough shape. The vacuum lines were dry rotted, the smog pump plumbing was also hard and cracked, the exhaust had holes, and the cross over tube behind the motor was also rusted. It would've been a major undertaking to restore everything to it's "former glory". So, I decided to simplify things. I had a new dual exhaust installed. I removed everything cat related. I gutted the smog pump, repacked the bearings, capped off the hose fittings, and reinstalled it so that it's just a pulley. The vacuum reservoir was toast, so I removed that as well, and ran new vacuum lines for the EGR valve directly into the vacuum tree. Regarding the TAB/TAD sensors, they go to the air valves on the smog pump plumbing, so if you have a smog pump delete, you don't need to hook them up. Simply plug the top fittings, and tie the vacuum lines of the bottom fittings into the EVR, and run it into the vacuum tree. Here's a few pics to show you what I did:

Smog pump related plumbing removal, including the back crossover tubing:

TAB/TAD vacuum lines, what's left of it:

Close up of new lines. Leave the sensors hooked up. Cap the top fittings, tie the bottom fittings to the top fitting of the EVR (right side) The blue line runs from the bottom of the EVR to the EGR valve.

Another pic, farther away: The blue line runs to the EGR valve. The black line coming out of the top of the EVR ties into the bottoms of the TAB/TAD sensors, and runs into the vacuum tree. Runs great, no codes and definitely cleans up the engine bay.

Last edited by armybrat223; 02-14-2018 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 02-17-2018, 09:08 PM   #18
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Lets just not worry about how the egr works, what it does, is it good or bad, how long does it last for one second. heres my advice when you start replacing and improving your vac lines.
1. Try to do one line at a time
2. Take it nice and easy, dont get in a hurry.
3. If you dont know ask (so far so good)
4. Try to look ahead to your future plans when rerouting, deleting, or adding
5. Dont let the crows nest of lines intimidate you, its not too bad once you actually get started
6. Take pictures before you start with your device to reference later if you get stuck
7. Make it neat, clean and dont shortcut things that you can do right.
8. Fix one thing at a time. Dont start doing the re-lining and stop in the middle to tweak or fix something you see unless its absolutely critical.
9.Do it the way you and your truck like it. At the end of the day its between you and your truck. Itll let you know if it doesnt like a new part or configuration.
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