1995ford5.8

Hi all, I know there are multiple posts and threads already on the site about vacuum lines but I still need some assistance. Starting with truck info. Its a 1995 F150 4x4 (originally 5.0) bought it already swapped with a 5.8 with smog delete.

I hooked up a catch can for the PCV system which works great and has given me no issues, but while messing with trying to get the line out out of the valve cover i snagged the loom that held all the vacuum lines in it. The lines are of course horribly brittle, and after i was done with the PCV catch can project i noticed two vacuum lines that had no where to go.

One of the vacuum lines is the thicker black line coming off the intake tree that seems to want to run under the A/C box. I managed to snake my arm under the box and the area surrounding it but cant seem to find a location of where it goes.

The second line is a yellow line that seems to want to hook up somewhere behind the intake manifold, but same story and cant seem to find any location.

I have capped them for now just so nothing gets into them for the time being but the truck is now throwing a 332 code. Not sure if they are related at all. The green EGR line is still intact as far as i can tell. EGR shouldve probably had some attention a while ago but it has never given me issues until now. The truck runs great and starts and idles fine. Just would like to know where the lines go so I can start on replacing all of them.

Thank you

BLDTruth

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...es-rubber.html

^^I used that when I replaced mine, except you are supposed to run a second T off of the line that goes to the TAD/TAB solenoids and add the EGR solenoid to it - so the EGR solenoid is running off of the reserve canister.

Get 20' of 5/32" ID vacuum hose, and about 6' of 7/32", and it will replace everything.

1995ford5.8

I came across that same thread! For sure going to be using that as a guide as I replace everything. So I'm assuming the yellow line goes to the TAD/TAB on the back of the engine, the the black one goes? I tried feeling around back there but had no luck. Also see that the write up was using an 88, has to be pretty similar to a 1995?

Steve83

That's not nearly enough description for us to really know how the truck was built or its current condition. Click this, read the caption, and put ALL the details into your signature so we can see them with each of your posts:


(phone app link)It can take a while for the damage that does to become apparent. The PCV should not need a catch can, and depending where you put it, it could do serious damage quickly. I recommend you put it back the way it belongs ASAP.


(phone app link)With the original engine, your primary reference should be the original VECI label on the hood above the brake booster.


(phone app link)

But generally, all '87-96 gas F-series use the same vacuum lines as shown here:


(phone app link)

On the truck I'm building now, I've replaced all the original small vacuum lines with silicone:


(phone app link)

The white HVAC line under the R hood hinge should also be replaced.


(phone app link)

BLDTruth

Yep I used it for my 94 and it was the same. There is one yellow and one pink line I think - they both go to valves behind the heads.

I had torn my vac line harness as well and had to get creative with my phone and taking pictures at certain angles to find where they went.

Easiest way to think of it is this:

The MAP sensor, fuel pressure regulator, and A/C system all get their own dedicated line off of the manifold tree - for mine the 7/32" worked best for the MAP and A/C. The only other line that comes directly off of the manifold (besides the BIG brake booster line) runs to the vacuum reserve canister. This canister then runs a return line all of the way back around to the three solenoids (TAB/TAD/EGR). This is why you need the two T's - to split that line so it can serve the three solenoids. Then each of those three solenoids has a line that runs to its respective valve.

EDIT: DOH I just saw you had smog delete, which means they probably plugged the heads on the back and eliminated the check valves - if this is the case, you still have to run the vacuum line to the solenoids from the canister, but you just have to cap off the TAD and TAB solenoids with vacuum caps. The EGR solenoid should still run to the EGR valve.

1995ford5.8

Okay, its a 1995 F150 4x4 5.8 swap, if you looked at it you would think it came factory maybe 100k miles on it. Engine came out of the same year truck, 4R70 transmission that came equipped as a factor option for these trucks. As said, I bought it with smog delete. I have put a BBK throttle body on it, with BBK shorty headers,also header back true dual exhaust with flowmaster 10 muffler (DI/DO) with cat delete. The truck is maintained very well.

As far as the catch can install, Ive read up on the factory emissions pumping too much oil back into the system. Not too good for the engine. That is why I installed a catch can. Still hooked up like factory, just a filter to catch anything just in case.

1995ford5.8

Thanks for keeping up the good replies! Thats the thing that was confusing me. This is my first time having this generation truck and didnt know if the smog delete tied in in any way, or if i was really crazy when feeling around behind the motor for those valves and could seem to find anything.

Im honestly wondering if this may be coincidence on timing that my egr valve goes bad at the same time i messed with something else. Ive had a feeling my egr was going bad for a few months now, but couldve just kicked the bucket finally.
One more thing, my A/C controls work as they should. Saw that some of the vacuum lines could mess with the HVAC controls, but it is not any of those lines.

Steve83

PUT IT IN YOUR SIGNATURE. As this thread progresses, we need to be able to find it, and we won't necessarily remember if or where you posted it. The easier you make it for us, the easier we can make it for you. The emissions system doesn't create oil, so it can't pump "too much" anywhere. And the emissions system doesn't pump oil, or suck it, or cause it to move in any other way. If oil is moving through the PCV valve, it's NOT because of the PCV valve, as that caption explains.A filter, or a catch-can? If the filter is oriented horizontally, it will act as a catch can. And if it's a paper filter, it will become saturated in minutes, causing it to block off the PCV flow. But it could still collect enough oil that, if you take a hard corner or bump, it could slosh oil into the engine & hydraulic it. I'd remove it ASAP, and find/fix the root problem.

1995ford5.8

It's a catch can, sorry for the confusion, no paper is in it. Either way, think I'm going to check out everything with the egr and see if that fixes the code and replace the vacuum hoses with new ones.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Remember, the EGR valve is a metal valve designed to carry exhaust gas and it's probably over 20 years old.
I would tell anyone having issues with theirs to replace it; just because if it's original it's probably due.