True Wheel Well Rot Fixes
#1
Another "Junior Member"
Thread Starter
True Wheel Well Rot Fixes
What has everyone that has had wheel well rot done to repair it? I don't want to just get a patch panel, cut out the old one, and weld the new one in. The ones I've seen don't solve the rust issue. Has anyone gotten rid of the inner well where all the salt and crap gets stuck? I'm thinking re-bar or something of the sort in place of the panel would help more than anything. That and regular cleaning, of course. My rears are just starting to bubble, want to stop it while I can.
#2
Mark
iTrader: (1)
New bed...and fenders will stop it
#4
basically the only way to stop it is new bed or patch panels. My neighbor and I did mine and you CANNOT tell the difference. We fixed the inner and outer panel. He runs an auto body shop though so he knows how to do it right lol
#5
Iowa Farmer
What has everyone that has had wheel well rot done to repair it? I don't want to just get a patch panel, cut out the old one, and weld the new one in. The ones I've seen don't solve the rust issue. Has anyone gotten rid of the inner well where all the salt and crap gets stuck? I'm thinking re-bar or something of the sort in place of the panel would help more than anything. That and regular cleaning, of course. My rears are just starting to bubble, want to stop it while I can.
#7
Realize first that it's a horrible design from a corrosion-resistance standpoint. It's pathetic that Ford continued on with the same basic design for decades. <End rant>
If you've still got mostly all good metal, here's what I'd suggest... Drill some ~1/2" access holes on the inside panel so that you can get your power-washer in there and shoot away all the gunk. Once thoroughly dry, spray some 7769 Rust-Oleum (or whatever else you like) through the access holes to try to better protect the back-side of the outer fender. Plug holes with rubber bushings - repeat spray-washing as so inspired.
If your corrosion has already eaten through the fender, cut it back to good metal, which will open up "V"-shaped access slits forward and back. Continue as above without the need to drill holes. Either leave ugly as-is or get some plastic flares to hide.
If you've still got mostly all good metal, here's what I'd suggest... Drill some ~1/2" access holes on the inside panel so that you can get your power-washer in there and shoot away all the gunk. Once thoroughly dry, spray some 7769 Rust-Oleum (or whatever else you like) through the access holes to try to better protect the back-side of the outer fender. Plug holes with rubber bushings - repeat spray-washing as so inspired.
If your corrosion has already eaten through the fender, cut it back to good metal, which will open up "V"-shaped access slits forward and back. Continue as above without the need to drill holes. Either leave ugly as-is or get some plastic flares to hide.
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#8
OR cut it back and weld patch panels in, and don't drive in the sand and salt in the winter. All trucks have rust on the wheel wells. First thing to go on chevy's are the rockers and cab corners. You have to remember we are talking about a 17+ year old truck.