Truck shuts off- Ignition cylinder?
#1
For the People
Thread Starter
Truck shuts off- Ignition cylinder?
Alright about a week ago this problem started and has gotten worse in the last few days. When I'm driving the truck will suddenly just turn off. It's worse when I'm turning, but it does it on straight roads too. Sometimes it'll turn back on so quickly I don't have to restart, but sometimes I have to roll to a stop and then restart. It always restarts right away. Also, the dash lights don't come on, just the radio will turn off and the truck loses power.
I initially though maybe it was fuel-related, since it was low the first couple times it happened, but it's doing it with a half-tank, so I don't think that's the problem. I checked under the hood today for loose connections and wires, and didn't find anything. When the truck is running, the key has a little wiggle room. I was messing with it today, and the truck will turn off if I move the key back and forth (but keeping it in the run position the whole time).
My best guess is the ignition cylinder, and maybe the ignition switch. LMC has them for $20 and $10, so if I replace one I guess I should replace both. Any thoughts on the cause of this problem or my diagnosis?
I initially though maybe it was fuel-related, since it was low the first couple times it happened, but it's doing it with a half-tank, so I don't think that's the problem. I checked under the hood today for loose connections and wires, and didn't find anything. When the truck is running, the key has a little wiggle room. I was messing with it today, and the truck will turn off if I move the key back and forth (but keeping it in the run position the whole time).
My best guess is the ignition cylinder, and maybe the ignition switch. LMC has them for $20 and $10, so if I replace one I guess I should replace both. Any thoughts on the cause of this problem or my diagnosis?
#3
For the People
Thread Starter
#5
April 2010 TOTM Winner
Dirtcrew51m is right,
when the ignition cylinder goes bad,
the key will turn too far and the truck will not start and you will know...
Replace the Ignition Switch attached to top of steering column under instrument panel
before you are stranded!
Remove two bolts only to lower the steering wheel to the seat
for access to the switch.
Just don't remove the four other bolts like I did. lol
I installed the white face overlay on my gauges,
that is why I had my instrument Cluster out,
but it sure was easy to replace my ignition switch with it removed.
Let us know!
when the ignition cylinder goes bad,
the key will turn too far and the truck will not start and you will know...
Replace the Ignition Switch attached to top of steering column under instrument panel
before you are stranded!
Remove two bolts only to lower the steering wheel to the seat
for access to the switch.
Just don't remove the four other bolts like I did. lol
I installed the white face overlay on my gauges,
that is why I had my instrument Cluster out,
but it sure was easy to replace my ignition switch with it removed.
Let us know!
Last edited by 1987 F-150 XLT 4x4; 11-19-2010 at 06:52 PM.
#6
For the People
Thread Starter
1987 is there just two bolts I need to take off to lower the column, or am I going to have to take off some of the paneling around the gauge cluster and all that? I haven't looked too closely yet, but I did just order the parts from LMC so I'll keep my progress posted.
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#8
Senior Member
I'm sorry, but that's priceless!
Aside from the bolts holding the column up, you're going to need to remove the two lower trim panels that connect below the column (there the light switch, wipers, tank selector, etc. are mounted).
The hardest part is getting the light and wiper ***** off - use a small tool to get between the **** and the post (you'll see what I mean when you get in there) and they'll slide right off.
Aside from the bolts holding the column up, you're going to need to remove the two lower trim panels that connect below the column (there the light switch, wipers, tank selector, etc. are mounted).
The hardest part is getting the light and wiper ***** off - use a small tool to get between the **** and the post (you'll see what I mean when you get in there) and they'll slide right off.
#9
I LOVE OLD FORD'S
Dirtcrew51m is right,
when the ignition cylinder goes bad,
the key will turn too far and the truck will not start and you will know...
Replace the Ignition Switch attached to top of steering column under instrument panel
before you are stranded!
Remove two bolts only to lower the steering wheel to the seat
for access to the switch.
Just don't remove the four other bolts like I did. lol
I installed the white face overlay on my gauges,
that is why I had my instrument Cluster out,
but it sure was easy to replace my ignition switch with it removed.
Let us know!
when the ignition cylinder goes bad,
the key will turn too far and the truck will not start and you will know...
Replace the Ignition Switch attached to top of steering column under instrument panel
before you are stranded!
Remove two bolts only to lower the steering wheel to the seat
for access to the switch.
Just don't remove the four other bolts like I did. lol
I installed the white face overlay on my gauges,
that is why I had my instrument Cluster out,
but it sure was easy to replace my ignition switch with it removed.
Let us know!
#10
April 2010 TOTM Winner
To otherweckta;
The instrument cluster does not have to be removed to replace the Ignition Switch.
I had my cluster out to install the white face gauges when I decided to replace my ignition switch.
The information the other guys said is correct about the rod and the switch and removing the ***** & lower panel cover.
When removing the two bolts or nuts (?) to lower the steering column to the seat;
since you have an automatic transmission, you will need to disconnect the gear-shift selector indicator from the cluster before lowering the steering wheel to the seat.
I think; there are two small screws to remove, and be careful with the indicator.
Take pictures before removing anything!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
To benbailey84;
I just pulled on the cluster, there is some slack in the cable,
then I reached behind the cluster to disconnect the speedometer cable,
it's a tight fit, but can be done.
When reinstalling, after reconnecting the cable to the cluster,
reach under dash, up behind brake pedal and pull on the cable to take the slack out, so the cluster will go back in place as it should.
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The instrument cluster does not have to be removed to replace the Ignition Switch.
I had my cluster out to install the white face gauges when I decided to replace my ignition switch.
The information the other guys said is correct about the rod and the switch and removing the ***** & lower panel cover.
When removing the two bolts or nuts (?) to lower the steering column to the seat;
since you have an automatic transmission, you will need to disconnect the gear-shift selector indicator from the cluster before lowering the steering wheel to the seat.
I think; there are two small screws to remove, and be careful with the indicator.
Take pictures before removing anything!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
To benbailey84;
I just pulled on the cluster, there is some slack in the cable,
then I reached behind the cluster to disconnect the speedometer cable,
it's a tight fit, but can be done.
When reinstalling, after reconnecting the cable to the cluster,
reach under dash, up behind brake pedal and pull on the cable to take the slack out, so the cluster will go back in place as it should.
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Last edited by 1987 F-150 XLT 4x4; 11-20-2010 at 10:29 AM.