ironworker68

have been online all day, in bed sick as hell, trying to find out what size sub and box will fit befind my flip forward seat in the truck. anyone have a fairly good set up? i'm thinking a 10" will fit nicely back there. i'm clueless about amps, subs etc so talk to me like the newbie i am. thanks!

LJ1

depending on your sub you may need different amount of watts for your amp, so if your amp runs 2000 amps make sure your sub can handle it

dkitt10

good luck i've been lookin for a couple weeks for a decent sub box for under seat in 95 supercab xlti finally found one that is old stock at a audio shop in my small town...they want 300 bucks...figure im gonna have to fab somethin up

91351

i bought a box for 10 bucks and it fit not sure on the size though

bjafeman

Some people get all picky about what type of enclosure a sub needs. I'm not one of them. Basically any sealed wooden enclosure with a decent port for air movement will do just fine. The more air space you can give the sub, the better. The more air space you can give the sub in-line behind it, the more better. That's how bazooka bass tubes get so much sound out of a 6" speaker.

A decent 10" speaker inside the cab with at least 150 watts pushing will be pretty loud. Enough to make the brown note a threat to anyone inside the truck, but not enough to impress people that have florescent lights under their cars. I've made a few boxes myself using particle board. If you caulk the inside seams, there's no noticeable difference between a home made box and a store bought one...other than you still have $100 left.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Take some careful measurements and build your own. I made mine out of 1/2" plywwod and caulked the seams. That's two 10s:

ironworker68

thx guys. sean to the rescue yet again hah.

hillbillie

Don't use plywood - use the good mx *****. If you were to look at a box similar to what sean provided, put some port holes in the bottom sides (if you put the holes in the front or one big one in the front middle of that design it will effectively = 0 with the seat cushion mashed up to it).

Try to think of it like your cab is one big box (with the windows up) there's limited room/air, and limited room for expansion. When you crank up the bass/volume, and it starts hitting, the air tries to 'get out'. So without portholes in a small restricted box, you've made a realtively small enclosure of the cab exponetially smaller by enclosing the box and won't get 1/5 of the capable sound out of the sub and it'll probably sound bad.

One thing i have heard / seen done that works/ed really well if it's done right, is to use a box similar to the pic^^^ (without portholes) but only connect one of the subs. the reverb/expansion/search-for-air-compression from when the hot sub hits, compresses the 'dead' sub in the 'search-for-air' and gives/gave one hell-uva really good sound.

Sean, i would like to take this op to ty as well for all the time you put in to this forum. My intention isn't to crack on the setup but help.

hillbillie

You also might want to consider facing the subs towards the bed, i know in a car trunk, you generally want them facing back or up, not really sure there'll be much difference noticable in the small cab space of a single cab truck like ours. And now that i'm thinking of it, perhaps one hole a little less than the size of that box's top might work best.

dszx13

Check out my pic in my album. i got 2 Kicker CVT compressed 12"s runnin off a 2000 watt legacy mono block amp.fits perfectly behind my bench seat. since you have less air space a sealed box would sound great!!