Royal purple users??
#1
Royal purple users??
Anyone use royal purple products on our trucks? Doing a oil change soon and thinking of going from Mobil 1 to RP. Only because my Mobil 1 is "full synthetic" and already super dirty at 5,000 miles. Please share good and bad experiences.
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike
#2
Senior Member
Just because it's dirty doesn't mean it's already bad. Some oils will darken and look dirty after 500 or 1k miles. Unless you have an issue that is causing the oil to be contaminated quickly then that oil is still plenty good. Being full synthetic has nothing to do with it. Royal Purple is also full synthetic. And just for a bit of info, neither is actually a FULL synthetic. They still use mineral base oils, they're just refined more. If you want to spend the extra cash for the Royal Purple go for it. But in your truck with that many miles the only difference you'll notice is a lighter wallet.
#3
Senior Member
Depends on the filter you use to filter the oil. If you use a basic Fram then expect your oil to look like crap after a few thousand miles. Also depends how hard you drive it.
Other then that I would smell your oil to see if it smells like gas. IF it does I then would ask when was the last time you gave it a good tune-up? Changed the O2 sensors? Cleaned the IAC? Cleaned the Mass Air Sensor? Since the 96 was mass air your oil should not look as bad as the Speed Density trucks.
But after 5000 miles I think any oil would like crap. I still change mine every 3000 no matter what oil I use...
If you have not I would upgrade the coil to get a better spark to burn the fuel better. Same for better spark plug wires such as the Ford Racing 9mm wires for the current to flow better. Auto Lite, Motorcraft Copper spark plugs, or any other decent plugs of your choice. MSD cap and Rotor. 6A or 6AL MSD ignition box. The ignition box will give a double tap of spark to the plugs at lower RPMS to help burn the fuel better. The difference between the 6A and 6AL is price and the Rev Limiter for racing use.
Then advanced the Timing on the distributor.
You might see a difference in the oil after that has been done because the fuel is getting burned better if that is the issue.
Other then that I would smell your oil to see if it smells like gas. IF it does I then would ask when was the last time you gave it a good tune-up? Changed the O2 sensors? Cleaned the IAC? Cleaned the Mass Air Sensor? Since the 96 was mass air your oil should not look as bad as the Speed Density trucks.
But after 5000 miles I think any oil would like crap. I still change mine every 3000 no matter what oil I use...
If you have not I would upgrade the coil to get a better spark to burn the fuel better. Same for better spark plug wires such as the Ford Racing 9mm wires for the current to flow better. Auto Lite, Motorcraft Copper spark plugs, or any other decent plugs of your choice. MSD cap and Rotor. 6A or 6AL MSD ignition box. The ignition box will give a double tap of spark to the plugs at lower RPMS to help burn the fuel better. The difference between the 6A and 6AL is price and the Rev Limiter for racing use.
Then advanced the Timing on the distributor.
You might see a difference in the oil after that has been done because the fuel is getting burned better if that is the issue.
Last edited by Toplait; 07-16-2015 at 04:36 AM.
#4
Depends on the filter you use to filter the oil. If you use a basic Fram then expect your oil to look like crap after a few thousand miles. Also depends how hard you drive it.
Other then that I would smell your oil to see if it smells like gas. IF it does I then would ask when was the last time you gave it a good tune-up? Changed the O2 sensors? Cleaned the IAC? Cleaned the Mass Air Sensor? Since the 96 was mass air your oil should not look as bad as the Speed Density trucks.
But after 5000 miles I think any oil would like crap. I still change mine every 3000 no matter what oil I use...
If you have not I would upgrade the coil to get a better spark to burn the fuel better. Same for better spark plug wires such as the Ford Racing 9mm wires for the current to flow better. Auto Lite, Motorcraft Copper spark plugs, or any other decent plugs of your choice. MSD cap and Rotor. 6A or 6AL MSD ignition box. The ignition box will give a double tap of spark to the plugs at lower RPMS to help burn the fuel better. The difference between the 6A and 6AL is price and the Rev Limiter for racing use.
Then advanced the Timing on the distributor.
You might see a difference in the oil after that has been done because the fuel is getting burned better if that is the issue.
Other then that I would smell your oil to see if it smells like gas. IF it does I then would ask when was the last time you gave it a good tune-up? Changed the O2 sensors? Cleaned the IAC? Cleaned the Mass Air Sensor? Since the 96 was mass air your oil should not look as bad as the Speed Density trucks.
But after 5000 miles I think any oil would like crap. I still change mine every 3000 no matter what oil I use...
If you have not I would upgrade the coil to get a better spark to burn the fuel better. Same for better spark plug wires such as the Ford Racing 9mm wires for the current to flow better. Auto Lite, Motorcraft Copper spark plugs, or any other decent plugs of your choice. MSD cap and Rotor. 6A or 6AL MSD ignition box. The ignition box will give a double tap of spark to the plugs at lower RPMS to help burn the fuel better. The difference between the 6A and 6AL is price and the Rev Limiter for racing use.
Then advanced the Timing on the distributor.
You might see a difference in the oil after that has been done because the fuel is getting burned better if that is the issue.
#5
Senior Member
nothing wrong with mobil one. its true they start with a mineral base but its very good oil for the money, especially when bought at walmart in 5 quart jugs. color of oil has nothing to do with how much life is left in it, unless you are having a severe overfueling problem contaminating it.
i personally run amsoil in many of my items which is a true synthetic, but when sent for analysis mobil one has good results. no reason to change it at 3k, unless you do extremely short trips all the time and never let the car warm up, or bad state of tune. mobil one has given great life at 10k changes for me.
i personally run amsoil in many of my items which is a true synthetic, but when sent for analysis mobil one has good results. no reason to change it at 3k, unless you do extremely short trips all the time and never let the car warm up, or bad state of tune. mobil one has given great life at 10k changes for me.
#6
Senior Member
There are a few factors with regards to the oil, but the #1 question is what's the history of your engine? If the internals of your engine are clean, the oil should remain clean.
Also, the color of the oil doesn't necessarily indicate that it is at the end of its useful life.
Also, if you're looking for an engine oil with higher than normal detergency to clean your engine out, you should look into either a Diesel oil such as Rotella 5w-40, Delo 5w-40 or other oils with a reputation for cleaning such as Redline, Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Ultra or try the 0w-40 Mobil 1.
Or you could try something like Kreen with conventional oil for a few short intervals.
Back to the original question, do you know the history of your engine and what condition it is in with regards to varnish or sludge buildup? That has a lot to do with it and it sounds like Mobil 1 might be doing it's job as far as cleaning your engine out.
Also, the color of the oil doesn't necessarily indicate that it is at the end of its useful life.
Also, if you're looking for an engine oil with higher than normal detergency to clean your engine out, you should look into either a Diesel oil such as Rotella 5w-40, Delo 5w-40 or other oils with a reputation for cleaning such as Redline, Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Ultra or try the 0w-40 Mobil 1.
Or you could try something like Kreen with conventional oil for a few short intervals.
Back to the original question, do you know the history of your engine and what condition it is in with regards to varnish or sludge buildup? That has a lot to do with it and it sounds like Mobil 1 might be doing it's job as far as cleaning your engine out.
Last edited by qdeezie; 07-16-2015 at 07:12 PM.
#7
Qdeezie, I can only guarantee how well it's been taken care of since I've had it (about a year and a half/14,000 miles). It's been taken care of well. And I'd say 60% of my driving are short trips 10 miles round trip everyday. Back to my orginal question, oil change is due rather soon and was just curious about royal purple.
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#8
Martin
I've met a number of folks over the years that use Royal Purple and seem happy with it. I personally run synthetic oil and only change the filter, not the oil, at 5000 mile intervals. Purolator premium filter, the yellow one. Truck runs great and is in no way a beater, only the best for it. Quality synthetic oil is good for lots of miles.
#9
Royal purple, that's what gullible people use in my opinion but everyone has one, right? Did you know that racing associations dump out the oil in royal purple bottles and is merely to trick spectators that the race engines are actually using it? Look for yourself, notice the oil isn't purple coming out of the bottles! Not to mention, whoever uses it are susceptible to more marketing by the word 'purple' and the manufacturer of the oil adding purple dye to the oil, if that isn't brilliant marketing then I don't know what is! Anyone who is serious about spending high prices for oil and care about engine longevity will not want to use anything but a true synthetic. Royal Purple runs TV ads. Amsoil doesn't have to market their product. Amsoil is only available from a dealer locally or online.
This is the test that royal purple marketing team employed at UTI. Not so royal anymore, isn't it? Almost like their trying too hard, do you agree?
Last edited by bluecar5556; 07-18-2015 at 03:16 AM.