92f150xl

I'm wanting to lift my truck and keep the ttb, no solid axel swap. I've decided on 4 inches. Over the last couple weeks I've been researching this.

It seems as though many speak higher of the kits that include extended radius arms. I've found a kit by rough country that allows you to keep stock radius arms and just uses drop brackets.
Main reason this kit appeals to me is because my radius arm mounting bolts look like they'd be a real chore to get out if at all given the rust. The cheaper price of the rough country kit is a bonus aswell.

This will not be a a mud truck or off-roader, aside from a few bumpy dirt roads pavement is all it'll see. Also will tow a seadoo and haul maybe 500 pounds in the bed on occasion but not often.

Would like to hear pros/ cons of anyone who has this kit or anyone with an opinion.
Given my light duty use I'm thinking this kit will be fine but would like to hear opinions before pulling the trigger.

Also if I do go this route anyone with this 4" rough country lift know what degree camber bushing they have?

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

My son put a rough country 4" lift on his Ranger (Dana 35 TTB) and had no problems with it at all. It's been on there 5 years.
I'd suggest to get the better kit that includes the rear lift springs (as opposed to stacking blocks).
Also at the time I noticed that it was really cheap to upgrade from their base shocks to their best ones - worth seeing if you can do that.
He just has regular Moog adjustable bushings; because a lift kit drops the pivot bushings properly, camber isn't a big problem at all.

BLDTruth

Yeah the only real cons against the rough country kit are those you have probably already read about with lifts that don't have extended radius arms. Generally they are more prone to cracking the frame at the radius arm bracket mount. But if you are doing mostly pavement driving, its a good kit.

If you want to save some coin, find yourself a set of 5 leaf pack springs from an 87-96 F250 and slap those on in place of the stock rear springs you have now. If you keep the stock 2" blocks it will raise your rear end up about 2-3 inches, which will keep it level-ish with the front when it gets the 4" lift.

92f150xl

Thanks for the replies. It looks like I will be purchasing that kit here soon.

I also stumbled across the rough country 2.5" lift and was considering because It meant I wouldn't have to mess with the pitman arm but I really don't think that little amount of lift will be worth all the effort. Plus 4" is what I want.

So I'm also looking into purchasing an oxy fuel torch to help with removing the pitman arm and any other stubborn fasteners.

TTurner

Just installed the 4" Rough Country on my F150 w/ DANA 44 TTB overall very happy. The truck does have a little *** low rake to it with the lift blocks which I'm not a huge fan of so I will probably change out to the rear lift springs soon.

Get a torch and a pneumatic chisel for removing the radius arm brackets if yours are riveted in. Mine were riveted and it was a pain in the ***. Cutting the heads off.... very easy. getting the remainder of the rivet out of the frame...... pain in the ***, until I broke the chisel out LOL! Also if you get a decent cutting tip you could just use the chisel to cut the bolt head off. I did that for a couple but had to keep sharpening the chisel tip (probably a cheap tip) that when I switched to the torch. GOES WITHOUT SAYING..... I would NOT use the torch on the driver's side... That where all the fuel lines, filter, pump etc. are.

Overall very happy with my lift, I will be driving in very very similar conditions as you. It rides very comfortably.... oh also they were able to get my truck aligned without any new bushings etc.

92f150xl

Good to hear you're happy with it! Makes me feel better about buying it, I won't be installing it until it gets warmer maybe 2-3 months from now.
Since you use you're truck very similarly to me if over the next couple months you encounter anything to beware of could you let me know?

I think for now I'm going to go with the lift blocks and then later on down the road swap f250 spring/ differential with lower ratio. That way I have sometime with the bigger tires to decide rather I want to re-gear or not.
With the lift blocks you only install the one provided in the kit and remove your factory block right?
To bad about the rear. I have an extra leaf back there right now hopefully that will get it closer to level.

TTurner

My truck didn't have the factory blocks probably because of it being a 2wd that I'm in the middle of converting. With that being said it's not recommended to stack blocks but it will be fine for a while as long as your not to hard on it i.e. turning really big tires, pulling really heavy loads etc. Stacking blocks only increase axle wrap potential.

Since your stacking make sure you properly torque the u-bolts you don't wanna over torque and stretch them and then don't forget re-torque everything after your first 500 miles or so.

ericantonio

Here's the RC buildup story from this forum a couple years back. Good stuff.

https://www.f150forum.com/f88/took-m...oughts-297387/

92f150xl

No I don't plan on stacking them. I plan to get the kit with the blocks installing as per recommendations and then later on there possibly upgrading to f250 springs and 4.10 rear end
Did you need extended brake lines?
Do you have a sway bar? If so What did you do with it?

TTurner

Ok Cool...

I did buy the extended brake lines but I didn't need to install them. I think if you did some very serious flexing of the front end it could be an issue but there was still a very decent amount of slack available. In other words that may be a judgment call for you.

I do have sway bar but have not installed it yet, I'm still working on that one.