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Repair Clockspring?

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Old 04-09-2014, 04:40 PM
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1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
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Default Repair Clockspring?

Has anyone here ever successfully repaired a broken airbag clockspring?

I've seen some video's elsewhere of people re-soldering the broken ribbon cable but have never heard anything about how well it held up after the repair.
Old 04-09-2014, 07:24 PM
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I need to know this as well, the horn in the '94 Extended cab does not work due to this.
Old 04-09-2014, 09:26 PM
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No horn or cruise here (also 94). The truck isn't being driven right now so I guess I'm just going to give it a try, worst case scenario is it still doesn't work or only holds up for a short time, best case is I don't have to pay 49.99 for a new one. I don't really plan on a need for the CC but the horn could come in handy, plus it'll stop that stupid light from blinking.
Old 04-10-2014, 12:47 AM
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i just replaced mine with a new one. i got mine real cheap but it looks like they went up in price a bit
Old 04-26-2014, 10:54 AM
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I did mine last month, 1994 f150,
I bought the replacement through Orileys under 50 bucks.
Old ribbon cables can be repaired, but as soon as you repair it be ready to repair it again. (or how much is your time worth?)
Tips, keep track of your nuts and screws.
When you remove the ignition switch pay attention as to how the wire is attached there and the orentation of the ignition switch as to which side is up.
When I got my clock spring replacement it had an extra wire which was not used in my installation.
Start in the morning so if something goes sideways or takes to long you will have plenty of light to figure it out.

Hope this helps.

OD45

Last edited by olddog45; 04-26-2014 at 11:14 AM.
Old 04-26-2014, 11:29 AM
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I bought a replacement just to be on the safe side, but as I said in another thread I stripped the holes out and need to re-tap them. I just need to know if it will hurt anything besides the old clock spring if I drill all of the way through the wheel (using the old threaded holes) because I need at least 1/4 inch-3/4 inch past the wheel to properly tap the hole.
Old 04-26-2014, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by fltdriver
I bought a replacement just to be on the safe side, but as I said in another thread I stripped the holes out and need to re-tap them. I just need to know if it will hurt anything besides the old clock spring if I drill all of the way through the wheel (using the old threaded holes) because I need at least 1/4 inch-3/4 inch past the wheel to properly tap the hole.
There are some connectors and wires on top of the clockspring

Last edited by olddog45; 04-26-2014 at 12:14 PM.
Old 04-26-2014, 09:17 PM
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SO.... I was installing a amp to run a couple of extra 6X9's I had and while running the wires under the carpet I reached for the steering wheel to pull myself up and the f*cker just popped off. Score one for PB BLASTER! Had been giving it a couple squirts everytime I was doing something in the garage, finally worked it's way in there and presto.

Now, what does the little clip that goes into the ignition control? Because the old one was broken and not even in there. Tried to install the new one and found the piece of plastic from the old one lodged in there pretty good. I know there is a way to pull the Ign cylinder out but for the life of me I couldn't do it. Figured I would ask if it was important before I went any further.
Old 04-26-2014, 09:23 PM
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Never mind found this:
3.Twist tilt wheel handle and shank and remove (if equipped). Remove lower steering column shroud. Position ignition lock cylinder in RUN position. Using suitable tool, push upward on cylinder release tab through hole in lower shroud while pulling cylinder outward.
4.Carefully pry to release clips and remove lower steering column opening cover. Remove upper steering column shroud. Clockspring contains service lock to prevent accidental rotation when steering wheel is removed. If service lock is missing, apply 2 tape strips across clockspring and housing to prevent rotation.
5.Remove key-in ignition warning switch.



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