91 f150 cam specs
#1
91 f150 cam specs
First of all let me say I am a new member to this forum but I have gotten a lot of good info from here for years. I know... I should have joined a while back!!! I have a 91 f150 302 2wd with the aod trans and I'm trying to find the cam specs on the factory cam that's in it. I know it is not a roller cam but without pulling it out and getting the part number...I'm stumped!! Any help would be appreciated.
#2
Hi-Rev Motorsports
why do you want to know?
the non-roller isnt worth it...get a roller and swap it if the block is roller capable...thats a good swap...but stay stock especially if you are a Speed Density truck
the non-roller isnt worth it...get a roller and swap it if the block is roller capable...thats a good swap...but stay stock especially if you are a Speed Density truck
#3
The reason I'm asking is my heads are in the shop being cleaned and checked out. I am planning on doing some mild porting and maybe some other mods. The truck will not be a daily driver but may be used for towing approx 3500 lbs to the lake 100 miles away quite often. I also must pass vehicle inspection where I live. The truck has always been gutless. It appears that most of my exhaust valves were burned due to clogged injectors and lack of maintenance before I owned the truck. By the way... the truck is bone stock with speed density.
Last edited by tyler37075; 07-18-2010 at 09:04 PM.
#4
Hi-Rev Motorsports
going bigger will only make towing worse...
the small factory cams make the engine work from idle up....going bigger raises the range...when towing you'll really see this..
instead of idle up you may see 1800 up and getting to 1800rpm will be a chore and you'll hurt the engine...
towing/rv cams are still short duration to keep the range idle and up but add overlap to help cylinder filling...but this wont work on EFI...the computer doesnt like overlap...it freaks out the MAP sensor and the MAF if you have one will be flaky at low rpm....
stay stock but go roller that helps as you gain all over the curve...wider lobes get the valve open sooner and longer...called more area under the curve...win/win for you...
the small factory cams make the engine work from idle up....going bigger raises the range...when towing you'll really see this..
instead of idle up you may see 1800 up and getting to 1800rpm will be a chore and you'll hurt the engine...
towing/rv cams are still short duration to keep the range idle and up but add overlap to help cylinder filling...but this wont work on EFI...the computer doesnt like overlap...it freaks out the MAP sensor and the MAF if you have one will be flaky at low rpm....
stay stock but go roller that helps as you gain all over the curve...wider lobes get the valve open sooner and longer...called more area under the curve...win/win for you...
#5
As far as I know I have the original bock that came in the truck. I can get the numbers off if I need to. Can I switch to a roller without machine work and if so what cam would be best for low end torque?
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#8
Hi-Rev Motorsports
yes it is...they were all the same...if you ask for a roller cam for a F150 truck from 86 to 96 you get the same cam...they did make one a little hotter for the MAF set up...either work well...just stay with the one for your system...
it will be in the .390-.400 lift range and 202 duration at .050
it will be in the .390-.400 lift range and 202 duration at .050
#9
Just one more thing...Will it be a standard firing order or the H.O. firing order. My fuel injectors are bank fired so I don't know if that will be an issue. Thanks so much for the info!!!!