Hoopty5.0

Also, Im getting a KOER code "538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test - TESTS"
not sure how to circumvent this, google wasn't much help. Any ideas? The CEL still comes on only after driving, will not come on idling in the driveway after startup.

Eric Fullerton

What I found with google:
The description sounds like a problem in the WOT (Wide Open Throttle) test. As part of the testing you must briefly and rapidly depress the throttle to the floor while the engine is running. (Obviously it is not to be held to the floor - release immediately) Every time I've gotten that error it was due to the operator error part of the code (Either I forgot to do the WOT or I wasn't at the correct time in the test.

Hoopty5.0

LOL once again, operator error is the problem. Thanks for the heads up!

Hoopty5.0

I've driven the truck to work yesterday and today. In the morning, It'll ride down the highway at 80 mph, happy as a clam. In the afternoon, the temp slowly creeps up. To me, that points to no having enough radiator. May not be enough fan, either, but even at freeway speeds, it still gets and stays hot.

Has anyone swapped in an F250 radiator in with any success?

Eric Fullerton

That body style is very prone to air lock in the cooling system. The best results I've had was lifting the front end at least a foot, and squeezing the crap out of the upper hose. If it burps, that was probably the problem. There also the old stand by: stuck thermostat. I can't see why the F250 / 350 radiator wouldn't fit right in, the body styles were identical up to 97-98, even then, some of the 97's were still OBS.

BLDTruth

If you have a factory 2 row radiator then you have the best radiator ford offered for a gas truck in that era - if it is only the 1" thick version then it couldn't hurt to upgrade. My 94 with the 5.0 came with the 2 row because it has the trailer/tow package. It's the same radiator we just pulled off of a 1993 F350 with a 460.

Eric Fullerton

That could also point to a semi-clogged radiator. I had that on my 79 F-350 w/460, & it would actually do better in traffic, than on the freeway. At that time, people still had them repaired, and the local guy re-cored it. It worked like new after that. Now, radiators are so cheap, I doubt there are even still places to get them fixed.

Hoopty5.0

Thanks guys. I did put the front of the truck up on ramps a couple of weekends ago and it burped pretty good, but still having the issue... Couldn't hurt to try again I guess? It is the 1" core radiator. Was just looking on Rock Auto and I can have the 2 3/8" core radiator shipped to me for $97.00. As soon as I get some more funding freed up, I may do that. Might also try some water wetter??? The thermostat is new, but I've heard that new ones are prone to failure too. May be worth removing and testing as well. I'll report back as soon as I can get around to investigating.

Hoopty5.0

I'd also like to reiterate how AWESOME this truck runs now with the GT-40 swap. I was getting on the freeway yesterday behind a slow driver, so I matted it and flew around them. It's not neck-snapping, but I was at 80 mph a lot faster than I expected.

Steve83

To what temperature? Have you checked it with an IR gun at the intake crossover just behind the t-stat?If the system is pulling in air, you should find & fix that problem first. But it's easier to release air & fill the system at one of the heater core nipples. No ramps required.Gimmick.What brand, PN, source, & temperature? What's the condition of the cap? Does the reservoir hold ~2/3 coolant? What coolant did you put in it? Read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/...ead.php?t=5230