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Old 07-13-2018, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
To what temperature? Have you checked it with an IR gun at the intake crossover just behind the t-stat?If the system is pulling in air, you should find & fix that problem first. But it's easier to release air & fill the system at one of the heater core nipples. No ramps required.Gimmick.What brand, PN, source, & temperature? What's the condition of the cap? Does the reservoir hold ~2/3 coolant? What coolant did you put in it? Read this:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/...ead.php?t=5230
- To what temp? unfortunately, I'm operating off the dash gauge. I have an IR gun, will see what it says when I get home.
- Pulling in air? Not sure either. but not sure how to tell? Where are the nipples around the heater core?
- T-stat? it was a cheap-o parts store replacement. The one in the truck was of unknown age (and installed backward) so I decided to replace it. Do you have a P/N that you recommend?

Thanks for the tips, I read the article too. Great info.
Old 07-13-2018, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoopty5.0
I'd also like to reiterate how AWESOME this truck runs now with the GT-40 swap. I was getting on the freeway yesterday behind a slow driver, so I matted it and flew around them. It's not neck-snapping, but I was at 80 mph a lot faster than I expected.
Did you end up using regular gt40 heads or gt40p?
Old 07-14-2018, 12:09 PM
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A nipple is where a hose connects to transfer liquid. They're labelled Inlet & Outlet in this diagram:


(phone app link)



(phone app link)
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Old 07-16-2018, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BLDTruth
Did you end up using regular gt40 heads or gt40p?
I got a set of regular GT-40s for cheap, so I used those. The set of P heads I have needed more work. The 40s had some port work already so the only thing I feel like I lost out on was a slight bump in compression.
Old 07-28-2018, 08:56 PM
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Today, I installed new water pump and timing cover gaskets. Bother were leaking badly when I pressure tested the system.

I also picked up an F250 dual core radiator in great shape for $50, installed that also.

Im hoping this solves the rest of the leaking and overheating issues. Short test drive went well but I will take it to work Monday and see how the drive home goes since that’s when it seemed to act up most. I have a few pics but not sure how to upload from the iPhone .
Old 07-30-2018, 08:38 AM
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No wonder I was having cooling issues! paper thin core, partially clogged with dirt will do it.



Old vs. new core thickness:



Voila, all installed.




But then, couldn't even get a solid day of enjoyment out of it. The brand new (overseas) starter is acting up. I'm going to warranty it soon. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll pony up for a Motorcraft unit.
Old 07-30-2018, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoopty5.0
...core, partially clogged with dirt will do it.
This is a good way to check a heat exchanger:


(phone app link)
Originally Posted by Hoopty5.0
The brand new (overseas) starter is acting up.
Not surprising, considering those battery terminals...
Originally Posted by Hoopty5.0
If that doesn't work, I guess I'll pony up for a Motorcraft unit.
It won't work with bad battery connections, either. Read all the captions in this album:


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Old 08-02-2018, 10:55 AM
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I've been driving the truck every day this week, it's running the best it has since I've owned it. The down side there is it's highlighting a couple of other issues that I've been putting off and/or ignoring.

- The MLPS seems to be going bad based on the symptom of going in to neutral on the highway randomly. It's really intermittent and rare, but I know it's there waiting to cause a major issue one day. If anyone has a cheap spare, I'd be interested in buying it.
- I need some 1° camber bushings. The passenger front tire is feathering on the outside and there is visible positive camber. No bueno!
- The battery cables could stand to be changed as Steve pointed out.
- The front tank fuel level sensor works when it wants to.



Other than that, it's a wrap for now, and I'm done messing with big-ticket stuff... I've been working on my problem child mustang the past few nights trying to figure out this DIS conversion that is absolutely eating my lunch.

Last edited by Hoopty5.0; 08-02-2018 at 10:58 AM.
Old 08-02-2018, 11:28 AM
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The cables are fine - it's just the terminals that need to be soldered on. Aftermarket cables would just add to the problem.

This describes MLPS:


(phone app link)


I wouldn't waste the effort on installing a used one. These are the lowest prices I see right now:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323375780252
https://www.ebay.com/itm/273164745242

But ATF is at least as-likely a cause for that symptom. What brand & type is in there, and how old (time/miles) is it? Is it full? What does it smell like? Does it have an external filter? Is THAT heat exchanger clean?


(phone app link)
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Old 08-02-2018, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
The cables are fine - it's just the terminals that need to be soldered on. Aftermarket cables would just add to the problem.

This describes MLPS:


(phone app link)


I wouldn't waste the effort on installing a used one. These are the lowest prices I see right now:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323375780252
https://www.ebay.com/itm/273164745242

But ATF is at least as-likely a cause for that symptom. What brand & type is in there, and how old (time/miles) is it? Is it full? What does it smell like? Does it have an external filter? Is THAT heat exchanger clean?


(phone app link)
Thank you for the links! The transmission was replaced last year (with another used, 90k mile unit) by a local reputable shop, so the fluid is new/full. For what it's worth, it did the same thing with the old transmission too.

*Edit - I did a little shopping and with my Rock Auto discount code, I got one for $37.24 with priority shipping. Should be here by Monday.

Last edited by Hoopty5.0; 08-02-2018 at 02:40 PM.



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