The PPD, repairs, upgrades, and general debauchery.
#1
The PPD, repairs, upgrades, and general debauchery.
I know this isn't the place for a build thread, but this is going to be more of a "does this sound right?" type of thread.
I bought a '94 F150 a year ago off craigslist. The ad said the "red paint is faded." Hah, WRONG! The truck is pink, therefor we (ok, I did it) named it the Pink Panty Dropper.
351w, E40D, 4x4, porno red interior that my wife is nuts over... seriously.
I put about 5k miles on it over the last year. Replaced the distributor, all the A/C components under the hood, and a few other random pieces. Eventually, I got the bright idea to sell my ultra-reliable DD, pay off my debt, and drive this.
But, I needed tires and shocks in the worst way. Determined not to do it half way, I ordered new tires and shocks.... and.... some other parts.
This brings it quasi- current. I also replaced the front brake system. The problem is, it's still pink. So in the interim, I've been collecting body panels and doing the body work in the garage.
I've got most everything as straight as I can, blocked out the high build, and got it all ready for a coat of epoxy sealer. How am I going to paint the cab now that it won't fit in the garage?
Excellent question. I don't know.
I bought a '94 F150 a year ago off craigslist. The ad said the "red paint is faded." Hah, WRONG! The truck is pink, therefor we (ok, I did it) named it the Pink Panty Dropper.
351w, E40D, 4x4, porno red interior that my wife is nuts over... seriously.
I put about 5k miles on it over the last year. Replaced the distributor, all the A/C components under the hood, and a few other random pieces. Eventually, I got the bright idea to sell my ultra-reliable DD, pay off my debt, and drive this.
But, I needed tires and shocks in the worst way. Determined not to do it half way, I ordered new tires and shocks.... and.... some other parts.
This brings it quasi- current. I also replaced the front brake system. The problem is, it's still pink. So in the interim, I've been collecting body panels and doing the body work in the garage.
I've got most everything as straight as I can, blocked out the high build, and got it all ready for a coat of epoxy sealer. How am I going to paint the cab now that it won't fit in the garage?
Excellent question. I don't know.
#4
Coils
I see you replaced the front coils. Keep an eye on them. I replaced mine as well and after about three months they started to collapse, no gap between the coils, on one side. I purchased the coils from NAPA, I took the truck over for them to look at, they replaced both coils without any issue. Just a pain to do it again. Its been a year now, no change.
#5
I see you replaced the front coils. Keep an eye on them. I replaced mine as well and after about three months they started to collapse, no gap between the coils, on one side. I purchased the coils from NAPA, I took the truck over for them to look at, they replaced both coils without any issue. Just a pain to do it again. Its been a year now, no change.
#6
So my steering is dangerously loose. Adding the lift and larger tires has only amplified the issues. I've read about a way to adjust this - worth it? Or just go for the Red Head box? Also, why are other reman boxes no good?
Last edited by Hoopty5.0; 06-13-2017 at 08:30 AM.
#7
Senior Member
My '96 came with one from the previous owner. it is at the very least acceptable. My '87 could definitely use one of some sort, but then we don't want to mess up the farm truck patina. I like the fact that they install bearings where stock was a bushing, or worse just the housing. On the other hand it is probably twice the price of most other rebuilds. Still how often do you want to do this?
From their website...
Our re-manufacturing process:
From their website...
Our re-manufacturing process:
- Machining out the housings and installing needle bearings
- Flame-spraying or replacing the shafts as needed Installing new control valves on some applications
- Custom fitting each worm & piston assembly with special ordered, precise over-sized ball bearings.
- Install every sector shaft on a lathe to check for straight and true
- polish the sealing surface to a higher polish than new.
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#8
My '96 came with one from the previous owner. it is at the very least acceptable. My '87 could definitely use one of some sort, but then we don't want to mess up the farm truck patina. I like the fact that they install bearings where stock was a bushing, or worse just the housing. On the other hand it is probably twice the price of most other rebuilds. Still how often do you want to do this?
From their website...
Our re-manufacturing process:
From their website...
Our re-manufacturing process:
- Machining out the housings and installing needle bearings
- Flame-spraying or replacing the shafts as needed Installing new control valves on some applications
- Custom fitting each worm & piston assembly with special ordered, precise over-sized ball bearings.
- Install every sector shaft on a lathe to check for straight and true
- polish the sealing surface to a higher polish than new.
#9
So this is my first post here so hopefully I am in the right place.
I own a 87 f150 5.0 4-speed. Every morning when I start her up it will go to about 1800 rpm for about 30 seconds and then drop down to 800 rpm. I'm pretty sure this is normal but the problem is after it is all warmed up I will drive somewhere and then start it again it will do it all over again. It does it no matter how cold or hot it is. Seems like it's choking it self and there is nothing to tell it "hey, I'm warmed up no need for high rpm". I'm very puzzled. Also, after I get down the road for about 2 miles it will do a little "jerk" and it will drive and run so much better. Mind you that before it does the little jerk I will shift into 3rd and hear pinging noise or knocking but after the jerk I will shift into 3rd and it will haul a**. I'm very confused. These are the new parts I have on it.
TPS
EGR and sensor(took back sensor because there was no difference )
O2 sensor
Map sensor
Brake booster
Radiator
Iac
Cleaned the throttle body very well
Air filter
I ran the codes and I got 33 but I replaced the egr and there was no difference at all.
Someone please help before I go crazy please.
I own a 87 f150 5.0 4-speed. Every morning when I start her up it will go to about 1800 rpm for about 30 seconds and then drop down to 800 rpm. I'm pretty sure this is normal but the problem is after it is all warmed up I will drive somewhere and then start it again it will do it all over again. It does it no matter how cold or hot it is. Seems like it's choking it self and there is nothing to tell it "hey, I'm warmed up no need for high rpm". I'm very puzzled. Also, after I get down the road for about 2 miles it will do a little "jerk" and it will drive and run so much better. Mind you that before it does the little jerk I will shift into 3rd and hear pinging noise or knocking but after the jerk I will shift into 3rd and it will haul a**. I'm very confused. These are the new parts I have on it.
TPS
EGR and sensor(took back sensor because there was no difference )
O2 sensor
Map sensor
Brake booster
Radiator
Iac
Cleaned the throttle body very well
Air filter
I ran the codes and I got 33 but I replaced the egr and there was no difference at all.
Someone please help before I go crazy please.
#10
Senior Member
So this is my first post here so hopefully I am in the right place.
I own a 87 f150 5.0 4-speed. Every morning when I start her up it will go to about 1800 rpm for about 30 seconds and then drop down to 800 rpm. I'm pretty sure this is normal but the problem is after it is all warmed up I will drive somewhere and then start it again it will do it all over again. It does it no matter how cold or hot it is. Seems like it's choking it self and there is nothing to tell it "hey, I'm warmed up no need for high rpm". I'm very puzzled. Also, after I get down the road for about 2 miles it will do a little "jerk" and it will drive and run so much better. Mind you that before it does the little jerk I will shift into 3rd and hear pinging noise or knocking but after the jerk I will shift into 3rd and it will haul a**. I'm very confused. These are the new parts I have on it.
TPS
EGR and sensor(took back sensor because there was no difference )
O2 sensor
Map sensor
Brake booster
Radiator
Iac
Cleaned the throttle body very well
Air filter
I ran the codes and I got 33 but I replaced the egr and there was no difference at all.
Someone please help before I go crazy please.
I own a 87 f150 5.0 4-speed. Every morning when I start her up it will go to about 1800 rpm for about 30 seconds and then drop down to 800 rpm. I'm pretty sure this is normal but the problem is after it is all warmed up I will drive somewhere and then start it again it will do it all over again. It does it no matter how cold or hot it is. Seems like it's choking it self and there is nothing to tell it "hey, I'm warmed up no need for high rpm". I'm very puzzled. Also, after I get down the road for about 2 miles it will do a little "jerk" and it will drive and run so much better. Mind you that before it does the little jerk I will shift into 3rd and hear pinging noise or knocking but after the jerk I will shift into 3rd and it will haul a**. I'm very confused. These are the new parts I have on it.
TPS
EGR and sensor(took back sensor because there was no difference )
O2 sensor
Map sensor
Brake booster
Radiator
Iac
Cleaned the throttle body very well
Air filter
I ran the codes and I got 33 but I replaced the egr and there was no difference at all.
Someone please help before I go crazy please.