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Old 03-21-2018, 08:02 PM
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Right - the E4OD has no kickdown cable. That's only on some C6s. The AOD has a TV cable.
Old 03-21-2018, 08:14 PM
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Shows what I know about automatics
thanks guys
Old 03-21-2018, 08:18 PM
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Here's everything you never wanted to know about the E4OD:


(phone app link)
Old 04-12-2018, 10:33 AM
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Not much excitement on the truck lately. I bought a second set of P heads that "were recently rebuilt and came off my running motor."

....Maybe that motor was in a sunken WWII submarine. Still looking for some replacements.
Old 06-11-2018, 11:08 AM
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Well, still not much has happened. The truck is currently dead in the driveway. I bailed on the P heads from a while back since they were going to cost a lot of money to fix. I pulled the intake to fix 2 broken intake bolts, both in the front. I got the first one 90% drilled out before I broke the bit off all the way down. Well crap!

So, I found another set of GT-40 (non-P) heads that are "off a running truck and ready to bolt on" for $200. Had good comp springs and a mild work done in the bowls. Long story short, they needed a lot of love, but in the form of time and not money. So, off we went. I cleaned and cleaned and ended up having to lap the exhaust valves.











So now, I am going to replace the seals, they're $17 and cheap insurance. Then, the heads will go on with the GT40 intake, 1.7 rockers, and long tube headers. I miss having my truck running, so I'm pushing hard to get this work done.
Old 06-11-2018, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoopty5.0
I pulled the intake to fix 2 broken intake bolts, both in the front.
Coincidentally, I did the same thing today...


(phone app link)


I still have 2 exhaust bolts to extract, though.
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Old 06-20-2018, 08:18 AM
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Well, this simple project is officially kicking my tail. I worked on it for 7 hours this past Saturday, and a couple of nights this week to get as far as this:



Getting the stock exhaust manifolds off was a bear. The lower intake weighs as much as, if not more than a head. getting the new 1.7 rockers arms shimmed and correctly torqued was a pain. Hell, even the mustang valve covers didn't work with the factory truck VC bolts.
I'm afraid the fun has yet to begin, however. I think I'm going to need either a mustang or explorer throttle cable. Sorting through the vacuum lines to get rid of the no-longer-there EGR system, yet keep the stuff I need and figure out where to hook it up should be fun. I may just buy 10' of vacuum hose and see where it takes me, haha. I do have the plug for the EGR connector to clear the check engine code too.

It wasn't all bad though - The heads cleaned up nicely. The headers couldn't get any easier to install. Over all, it should run really well considering all of the restrictive parts that have been removed.
Old 06-20-2018, 08:52 AM
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Putting this here for later reference... These are the vacuum lines I need to keep hooked up (I think? not sure that the trucks are much different than the cars). I'm sure some of you purists out there are yelling at your screens right now, or furiously typing out that the EGR system is useful and doesn't rob any power. I know. BUt i install L/T headers and the ports on the back of the heads were permanently plugged by someone before me.

Old 06-20-2018, 09:22 AM
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You need 5/32" ID vacuum line to run from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator and to the A/C system. Its a much bigger (10mm ID?) From the manifold to the brake booster.

Your biggest problem will probably be fooling the computer into thinking all of the smog pump/egr stuff is still hooked up. When I installed my exhaust and removed the smog pump I left the plugs and vacuum reserve lines to the TAD/TAB hooked up, but just capped the lines to the valves they were controlling, since they are gone now. The EGR is a completely different beast - it's one of those things I never messed with because it never messed with me.

You are probably going to hear a lot of guys say that you would be better off just using the truck intake. Its better than pretty much all of the 5.0 intakes out there that ford made, and allows you to keep your stock egr, throttle body, etc.

But it is looking good!

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Old 06-20-2018, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by BLDTruth
You need 5/32" ID vacuum line to run from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator and to the A/C system. Its a much bigger (10mm ID?) From the manifold to the brake booster.
Good to know, thanks!

Originally Posted by BLDTruth
Your biggest problem will probably be fooling the computer into thinking all of the smog pump/egr stuff is still hooked up. When I installed my exhaust and removed the smog pump I left the plugs and vacuum reserve lines to the TAD/TAB hooked up, but just capped the lines to the valves they were controlling, since they are gone now. The EGR is a completely different beast - it's one of those things I never messed with because it never messed with me.
!
They make a plug with 3 resistors in it that "fools" the computer into thinking that everything is working as it should. I have one left over from a mustang project, luckily.

Originally Posted by BLDTruth
You are probably going to hear a lot of guys say that you would be better off just using the truck intake. Its better than pretty much all of the 5.0 intakes out there that ford made, and allows you to keep your stock egr, throttle body, etc.

But it is looking good!
I believe that to be certainly true for the 302s. The truck intakes were (are?) awesome. However, this is a 351, and from what my research has turned up, they're terrible (unported). There was an article by tmoss porting SOMEWHERE, but for the life of me, I cannot find it. I'll keep searching. But in the mean time, you can see the difference between the GT-40 (left) stock truck 302 (center) and 351 truck lower (right).


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