The PPD, repairs, upgrades, and general debauchery.
#61
Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
Posts: 11,256
Received 1,731 Likes
on
1,487 Posts
Right - the E4OD has no kickdown cable. That's only on some C6s. The AOD has a TV cable.
#63
Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
Posts: 11,256
Received 1,731 Likes
on
1,487 Posts
#64
Not much excitement on the truck lately. I bought a second set of P heads that "were recently rebuilt and came off my running motor."
....Maybe that motor was in a sunken WWII submarine. Still looking for some replacements.
....Maybe that motor was in a sunken WWII submarine. Still looking for some replacements.
#65
Well, still not much has happened. The truck is currently dead in the driveway. I bailed on the P heads from a while back since they were going to cost a lot of money to fix. I pulled the intake to fix 2 broken intake bolts, both in the front. I got the first one 90% drilled out before I broke the bit off all the way down. Well crap!
So, I found another set of GT-40 (non-P) heads that are "off a running truck and ready to bolt on" for $200. Had good comp springs and a mild work done in the bowls. Long story short, they needed a lot of love, but in the form of time and not money. So, off we went. I cleaned and cleaned and ended up having to lap the exhaust valves.
So now, I am going to replace the seals, they're $17 and cheap insurance. Then, the heads will go on with the GT40 intake, 1.7 rockers, and long tube headers. I miss having my truck running, so I'm pushing hard to get this work done.
So, I found another set of GT-40 (non-P) heads that are "off a running truck and ready to bolt on" for $200. Had good comp springs and a mild work done in the bowls. Long story short, they needed a lot of love, but in the form of time and not money. So, off we went. I cleaned and cleaned and ended up having to lap the exhaust valves.
So now, I am going to replace the seals, they're $17 and cheap insurance. Then, the heads will go on with the GT40 intake, 1.7 rockers, and long tube headers. I miss having my truck running, so I'm pushing hard to get this work done.
#66
Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
Posts: 11,256
Received 1,731 Likes
on
1,487 Posts
Originally Posted by Hoopty5.0
I pulled the intake to fix 2 broken intake bolts, both in the front.
(phone app link)
I still have 2 exhaust bolts to extract, though.
The following users liked this post:
Hoopty5.0 (06-20-2018)
#67
Well, this simple project is officially kicking my tail. I worked on it for 7 hours this past Saturday, and a couple of nights this week to get as far as this:
Getting the stock exhaust manifolds off was a bear. The lower intake weighs as much as, if not more than a head. getting the new 1.7 rockers arms shimmed and correctly torqued was a pain. Hell, even the mustang valve covers didn't work with the factory truck VC bolts.
I'm afraid the fun has yet to begin, however. I think I'm going to need either a mustang or explorer throttle cable. Sorting through the vacuum lines to get rid of the no-longer-there EGR system, yet keep the stuff I need and figure out where to hook it up should be fun. I may just buy 10' of vacuum hose and see where it takes me, haha. I do have the plug for the EGR connector to clear the check engine code too.
It wasn't all bad though - The heads cleaned up nicely. The headers couldn't get any easier to install. Over all, it should run really well considering all of the restrictive parts that have been removed.
Getting the stock exhaust manifolds off was a bear. The lower intake weighs as much as, if not more than a head. getting the new 1.7 rockers arms shimmed and correctly torqued was a pain. Hell, even the mustang valve covers didn't work with the factory truck VC bolts.
I'm afraid the fun has yet to begin, however. I think I'm going to need either a mustang or explorer throttle cable. Sorting through the vacuum lines to get rid of the no-longer-there EGR system, yet keep the stuff I need and figure out where to hook it up should be fun. I may just buy 10' of vacuum hose and see where it takes me, haha. I do have the plug for the EGR connector to clear the check engine code too.
It wasn't all bad though - The heads cleaned up nicely. The headers couldn't get any easier to install. Over all, it should run really well considering all of the restrictive parts that have been removed.
#68
Putting this here for later reference... These are the vacuum lines I need to keep hooked up (I think? not sure that the trucks are much different than the cars). I'm sure some of you purists out there are yelling at your screens right now, or furiously typing out that the EGR system is useful and doesn't rob any power. I know. BUt i install L/T headers and the ports on the back of the heads were permanently plugged by someone before me.
#69
Senior Member
You need 5/32" ID vacuum line to run from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator and to the A/C system. Its a much bigger (10mm ID?) From the manifold to the brake booster.
Your biggest problem will probably be fooling the computer into thinking all of the smog pump/egr stuff is still hooked up. When I installed my exhaust and removed the smog pump I left the plugs and vacuum reserve lines to the TAD/TAB hooked up, but just capped the lines to the valves they were controlling, since they are gone now. The EGR is a completely different beast - it's one of those things I never messed with because it never messed with me.
You are probably going to hear a lot of guys say that you would be better off just using the truck intake. Its better than pretty much all of the 5.0 intakes out there that ford made, and allows you to keep your stock egr, throttle body, etc.
But it is looking good!
Your biggest problem will probably be fooling the computer into thinking all of the smog pump/egr stuff is still hooked up. When I installed my exhaust and removed the smog pump I left the plugs and vacuum reserve lines to the TAD/TAB hooked up, but just capped the lines to the valves they were controlling, since they are gone now. The EGR is a completely different beast - it's one of those things I never messed with because it never messed with me.
You are probably going to hear a lot of guys say that you would be better off just using the truck intake. Its better than pretty much all of the 5.0 intakes out there that ford made, and allows you to keep your stock egr, throttle body, etc.
But it is looking good!
Last edited by BLDTruth; 06-20-2018 at 10:01 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Hoopty5.0 (06-20-2018)
#70
Your biggest problem will probably be fooling the computer into thinking all of the smog pump/egr stuff is still hooked up. When I installed my exhaust and removed the smog pump I left the plugs and vacuum reserve lines to the TAD/TAB hooked up, but just capped the lines to the valves they were controlling, since they are gone now. The EGR is a completely different beast - it's one of those things I never messed with because it never messed with me.
!
!
Last edited by Hoopty5.0; 06-20-2018 at 10:34 AM.