DI1974

Yesterday I took the time while the truck had been sitting for a while to check a few items:

Oil: Exactly at full line: good color
Radiator: Full (can see green fluid a few inches from the top): Some "fuzz near cap area and on cap.
Brake fluid: Perfect
Power steering: a little low. Looks very dark --Should it be so dark?
Radiator reservoir: slightly under full (1/4")
Transmission fluid: over 2x as much that should be in there!!! Fluid is pink and clear. ** I have never put transmission fluid in the truck myself - have check it before and was never this way - will siphon extra fluid out today**

Cleaned a/c drain with air pressure (nothing blew out) and barely inside with wet q-tips. Was muddy but not clogged.

Checked rear axle bushings and they seem ok (anyone correct me if I'm wrong)

--I have the cleaner to clean the MAF sensor and will do that today and then test it with multimeter--

--I am also questioning the EGR valve as an issue??--

I have attached a google photo share URL so anyone interested can see the photos I took of each item I checked....

****Also- at the end of the fluid and rear axle photos are a few questions -- one has been that I have had a mild oil leak. Most people question the gasket but a while ago I cleaned under the truck (it was disgusting) and when I was under it yesterday I noticed that some hoses were covered in clean oil that was leaking onto the oil pan (not coming from the oil pan) I took photos as far up as I could see them but think they are under the engine so I couldn't see more.

Also, I checked the hose by the oil cap and there is a small bit of wear but I don't think its a full on hole or is leaking.....(?)

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JOSWxfZ2xyMWh3

Thank you all for your guidance!!!!

Chap150

DI,

On the ATF showing above proper level. Always check ATF with engine at normal driving temp. Cold checks will not be correct.

Glad to see the rear link bushings are good. But that sound ... hmmm..

Probably nothing to worry about but I would clean the white gunk off of the radiator cap and radiator and keep a close eye on it. Check every week to see if it's returning. You should not see anything in there except antifreeze. If it returns, then need to figure out what is causing it. Usually, white/tan fluff at the cap indicates oil getting into the anti freeze. Which is usually caused by a head gasket leaking oil into the coolant system. Knowing you have fresh anti freeze, we want to keep an eye on it.

EGR Valves. I believe the EGR valve has what we used to call an EVP sensor on top of it. (https://www.cjponyparts.com/egr-valv...CABEgIP5vD_BwE) They *will* go bad. It's possible the diaphragm inside it has deteriorated. The EGR valve itself may need the carbon cleaned out it. But unless you are getting a code to indicate EGR system failure of some sort, I wouldn't worry too much about it. ( Get that Innova Reader. Although, AutoZone or comparable should have an OBD-I tool on hand. )

I would be more interested in the throttle body to see how clean it is and whether or not the throttle body plate ( the brass plate in the picture ) is worn. https://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-tb...4=41114&intl=0

From watching and listening to your video last night, I didn't hear or see what might be construed as a running problem. Other than the weird intermittent Check Engine light going on and off. That really needs to be figured out. Could be a loose/dirty/bad ground wire somewhere causing it ????

Does your truck have cruise control and does it work? Does the horn work? Might seem like silly questions, but there's a method to the madness. Do you know if your truck is equipped with ABS brakes? If so, does the ABS light ever come on other than when starting the truck?

Oil leaks.... V8 Ford's are notorious for blowing out the back side of the intake manifold gasket. I've *never* seen a V8 ford with any mileage on it that didn't leak at the rear of the intake. As well, valve cover gaskets will leak between the exhaust manifold tubes down the side of the engine blocks. And of course, the oil pan gasket, if it has one, are perennial leaker's too. Some use silicone sealer instead of a gasket.

If the oil leaks are a real problem, most reputable shops can add a black light dye to the engine oil and pretty much pin-point where the oil leak is coming from with a black light.

Just some thoughts ...

Chap

DI1974

Chap,
Thanks for the reply. I am going to go through each thing one by one....

On the ATF showing above proper level. Always check ATF with engine at normal driving temp. Cold checks will not be correct.
I didn't know this. I've been told to check some fluids cold and some warm -- I figured by checking them all at that time gave me a base point of where they are before I drive it.

Glad to see the rear link bushings are good. But that sound ... hmmm..
I wish I could explain that sound too! It really is getting louder and more frequent that it sounds like something major is going to break or fall off!!

Probably nothing to worry about but I would clean the white gunk off of the radiator cap and radiator and keep a close eye on it. Check every week to see if it's returning. You should not see anything in there except antifreeze. If it returns, then need to figure out what is causing it. Usually, white/tan fluff at the cap indicates oil getting into the anti freeze. Which is usually caused by a head gasket leaking oil into the coolant system. Knowing you have fresh anti freeze, we want to keep an eye on it.
Interesting that you mention this and why I took the photos and mentioned it.... In Oct, we suspected oil getting into the coolant. I flushed the radiator and the fluid that came out was dark and murky! I changed the oil at that time also and it was fine.

EGR Valves. I believe the EGR valve has what we used to call an EVP sensor on top of it. (https://www.cjponyparts.com/egr-valv...CABEgIP5vD_BwE) They *will* go bad. It's possible the diaphragm inside it has deteriorated. The EGR valve itself may need the carbon cleaned out it. But unless you are getting a code to indicate EGR system failure of some sort, I wouldn't worry too much about it. ( Get that Innova Reader. Although, AutoZone or comparable should have an OBD-I tool on hand. )
OMG! those are so cheap! I'll def get one. When I was out of town when the issues came back and worse - I stopped at every major auto part store and they didn't have a reader for my truck!

I would be more interested in the throttle body to see how clean it is and whether or not the throttle body plate ( the brass plate in the picture ) is worn. https://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-tb...4=41114&intl=0
I am going to look at the URL you provided. Funny enough - when I went to buy the CRC MAF cleaner it came with a can of Throttle body and air intake cleaner!

From watching and listening to your video last night, I didn't hear or see what might be construed as a running problem. Other than the weird intermittent Check Engine light going on and off. That really needs to be figured out. Could be a loose/dirty/bad ground wire somewhere causing it ????
That I don't know. It does feel like it runs a little rougher than usual but the worst is when it randomly decelerates and the knocking sound. These also seem to happen after driving 10-15 min and then continually get worse the longer I drive.

Does your truck have cruise control and does it work? Does the horn work? Might seem like silly questions, but there's a method to the madness. Do you know if your truck is equipped with ABS brakes? If so, does the ABS light ever come on other than when starting the truck?
Cruise control-yes and it did work the last time I drove. Horn works. ABS- I believe so and light has never been on (I will double check when I go out in a few). In Oct when these issues started (but were mild) I tested all of the fuses and relays. Looked for visual issues (loose wires, hoses, etc...) Didn't see anything and lightly pulled on some hoses and they were ok. Looked for cracks and holes in hoses and all were ok - rubber hoses were pliable and not stiff or cracking.

Oil leaks.... V8 Ford's are notorious for blowing out the back side of the intake manifold gasket. I've *never* seen a V8 ford with any mileage on it that didn't leak at the rear of the intake. As well, valve cover gaskets will leak between the exhaust manifold tubes down the side of the engine blocks. And of course, the oil pan gasket, if it has one, are perennial leaker's too. Some use silicone sealer instead of a gasket.

If the oil leaks are a real problem, most reputable shops can add a black light dye to the engine oil and pretty much pin-point where the oil leak is coming from with a black light.
For f@!k sake!!! Thank you!! I mentioned this to people here and was told not to because it was a waste! The oil leak seemed to be the least of the issues - I have only recently seen it leave oil behind and in a few small dime size drops. But with the overall coolant concern in the beginning - I thought it was prudent to see where any leaks were and they have dye for all of it.

The day I stopped driving the truck, on my last stop home I noticed the oil leaking. I went into the store, shopped for almost 1/2 hr, went back to the truck, moved it over a space, and took a photo of the little bit of oil it left.

I just attached 3 photos (hope it works) the first is what came out of the radiator when I flushed it in Aug/Sept (?). The next photos are of the recent oil drips and i tested to make sure it was oil (as you can see) and its clean.

Thanks!! Onto more diagnosing!!!

Also - do you or anyone else have advice on a vacuum pressure tester for the engine? I've seen them at Harbor Freight...but then I've seen the professional smoke machines (not happening), somebody blow cigar smoke into hoses (also not happening), and apparently some people still using carb cleaner!! (don't want to ignite - thanks!)

cmccarthy

ATF should always be checked with the drivetrain at operating temperature, engine idling, and gear selector in "park". Also, disregard the first reading. Pull the dipstick, wipe, reinsert, re-pull, and use that reading.

cmccarthy

Regarding the pics you posted earlier of the coolant leak, I would say with almost 100% certainty that the water pump was indeed the source of that, so at least the dealer wasn't lying there. The water pump has a hole on the bottom, and when the impeller seals begin to fail coolant leaks out of that hole and all over the steering linkage and transmission cooler lines.

The gurgling: As others have said, that's absolutely a symptom of it being low on coolant. That's exactly why it went away when you refilled your coolant reservoir the first time. My guess is that the shop didn't adequately "burp" the cooling system after the water pump replacement and an air pocket developed. Just keep your reservoir topped off and that will work itself out more than likely.

Rough running and poor driveability: This could be a million things. I disagree with the dealer that the mass air sensor "needs to be replaced soon". They are either bad or they are not bad. The sudden onset of your driveability problems leads me to believe it's more of a parts failure issue like the catalytic converter getting clogged, the fuel filter getting stopped up, or either the coil or ignition module beginning to take a dump on you. If the exhaust note has changed or seems to be hissing, that's a pretty good indicator the cat is going south. If you don't remember or know when the last time the fuel filter was changed, change it. That design is notorious for clogging, but they are cheap and easy to replace. Most any quick oil change joint can do it, or you can tackle it yourself with a very inexpensive tool they sell at all the auto parts stores.

DI1974

Thank you — I am going to attempt it again tomorrow when I have time to drive it around and let it idle to warm up properly. (Of course I saw that on the dipstick after the fact as well!!)

DI1974

I originally posted a thread on these issues because everything happened at once! I’m ok with one or 2 issues but this seemed beyond overwhelming! I’m definitely a take it step by step person (especially since I am going into uncharted waters for myself by looking at more than something that is known to me).

The fuel filter was changed a few months ago. Around the time that my rear fuel pump finally gave out. There was sediment in both tanks and the tanks were removed and cleaned as well.

I need to to sit down and write a list of possibilities and where to start diagnosing!

Thank you for your suggestions. I will look into them further.

raski

This time of the year, you need about ten miles of driving to get tranny warmed up. Idling it won't get it warmed up enough this time of the year. Fluid expands as it warms up, so if it checks high when cold, it likely is overfilled.To properly check the tranny fluid, you need it warmed up, move the gear selector momentarily in each position and end at park. Then go and check the fluid level. A "little" overfill won't matter as long as you do not see bubbles in the fluid.
The EGR position sensor is not much different than your throttle position sensor. You can check it removed from the EGR valve with an ohm meter by watching for "dead spots" while you slowly move the rod on the sensor in and out. Very rarely do they fail. I only had one fail on four cars in 25 years.

DI1974

Thanks for the info on the tranny fluid. Since the truck had been sitting for 2 days - I wanted to check all fluids to see where they were at just to know. To have the tranny dipstick show more than 2x the amount cold - I knew that was an issue! I siphoned a lot out yesterday. Drove the truck around a bit and even at 75 degrees outside the engine was just warm. The fluid at that time was at about 1/2 the hatch marks. I will take the time to properly get it warmed and re-check it and if it needs more fluid - at least I'll know that I'm careful in adding new fluid! Part of me wonders if my well meaning boyfriend, who occasionally takes my truck to Jiffy Lube for service ( I know everyone is cringing!) -- if they overfilled the fluid? Regardless, hopefully it hasn't done any damage and can be taken care of now.

Also, thank you for the EGR info. That takes one item off my list of worries (or at least I'll shove it to the bottom of "in case everything else fails!". I am beginning to feel like this is a vacuum issue somewhere but I would think that taking the truck in for identical issues recently that they would have vacuum checked the engine (?)

What I am curious about (and I know this would be a longer process than a professional smoking the engine) will a simple diagnostic, like the one in the pic I will post, be sufficient to test the truck? I also did buy an Innova code reader --- found one for less than $20 with shipping so I'm good with it.

(1st photo is (actually backwards) it is the reading after I siphoned out fluid and the bottom is before - both cold) - 2nd is how much I siphoned out -3rd photo- is a question.....is this an acceptable vacuum test for my truck?) Also, I guess my point is that if the fluid was that full cold - when it expands as its heated - wouldn't it be more than excessively full???

DI1974

I really should have kept one thread! Now I’m trying to manage the same info on 2! If anyone is interested I posted about the MAF sensor on the other thread and do have some questions.....

the link is
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/part-2...5/#post5565704