xirtam

I have a 86 E 150 with a 5.0 automatic. It has aprox 169k.
Here are the problems that I have with it:

• Idles very low (it will die it I don't put it in neutral and give it gas)
• When driving it will begin to hesitate and jerk. It will loose power until it eventually becomes worse and will barely drive. Sometimes I hear a clunk under the gas pedal when it hesitates and jerks. It almost feels like it stops getting fuel.
• terrible fuel economy

This is what I have done to it:

• New TPS
• New Map Sensor
• New PCV valve
• New sparks, wires, rotor, and cap
• New fuel pump and filter
• New battery and alternator (it needed both)

This is what I have ordered and will replace:

• Idle control valve
• o2 sensor

I checked the TPS and it is installed correctly. Scanned for codes got KOER code 34 "EVAP control system fault/voltage higher than closed limit (v8 models)"


I removed the egr, cleaned it real well, and plan to reinstall it tomorrow.
Any ideas? Your help will be greatly appreciated:

P.S. I'm trying really hard to fix up this van so that I can carry more youth home after Wednesday night church (I am a youth pastor) and other activities.
Thank you.

ymeski56

KOER code 34 EVAP control system fault/voltage higher than closed limit or maximum allowable calibrated parameters for a specified canister vent duty cycle by PCM command. Usually the soleinoid valve is pooched if the wiring is in good shape.
Should not be confused w/ The EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor.

xirtam

Thank you so much will replace solenoid, clear codes, and see if this helps. So today I decided to see what would happen if I disconnected spark cables (one at a time) 5-8. To my surprise there was little difference in acceleration (engine idleing) nor did the engine stall. When I do the same to 1-4 there is a bigger difference. Is this normal. How do I test to see if I need to change the coil, distributor, or anything else?

ymeski56

"No" difference for any of the right bank plugs? Pull one & see what it looks like.

xirtam

So I decided to check the vacuum line that goes to the egr. Found out that someone had stuck a piece of wood inside it so it had no flow... I removed the obstruction, ran codes, and 34 is no more. I changed the plugs less than a week ago. Earlier I drove it for about 40 minutes, it ran ok until the jerking returned. I could hear a poping sound coming from driver side of engine (sometimes) It almost seems to me as if the van looses a few cylinders intermediately so the van goes for a second then it wants to die, this repeats until it will barely even drive. After it did this today it died on me on the highway so I pulled over, I tried to strat it but it kept dieing. So I turned it off, waited for a couple of minutes and it drove home just fine... Crazy huh.

ymeski56

That sound more like the PIP senor(Stator) &/or the TFI module (ICM). The PIP is inside the distributor & on your year, the TFI mounts on the outside of the distributor. It is recommended for your year, that they be replaced at the same time. Much less labor intensive to replace the distributor as a unit & slap on a new TFI, than to disassemble the distributor to get to the PIP. Either way, the distributor has to be removed.

See Link: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=25

But have you run both key on/ engine off, then key on/ engine running scans?

xirtam

I have to stay that I agree with you, it does seem like a distributor problem. I just came back form a 40 minute drive and at the end it began to do the same thing - it would bog down and jerk and when I gave it more gas it would backfire. I ran both scans and they came back good. Is there a specific brand that I should look for or stay away from? Thanks

ymeski56

Motorcraft if you can swing/afford it. I'm a NAPA fan too.
The PIP may or may not show in a scan. The TFI won't show in a scan. but you can take it in & have it bench checked at a parts store.

xirtam

This is what I have done so far:
Replaced the:

• distributor
• tfi module (which I remote mounted by fender. Got extended harness at jy)
• Coil
• I set distributor to spark #1
• I set crank to tdc
• Old TFI module checked bad at autopart store

The van started right up but now it misfires and will barely run immediately. I have not done the timing yet - could this be the problem?

ymeski56

Yep!

Did you disconnect the battery for 5 minutes minimum to clear any continuous memory codes?

Remember checking or adjusting base timing advance requires the SPOUT plug to be removed while doing so.