sylver91

I know there is a right way and a wrong way and a cheap and easy way don't get me wrong, I was just giving the easy way out. And you are right you can't re crush a sleeve I know that and you can only check the in\lbs torque with it disassembled, and a new pinion nut. I was talking about torquing the new crush sleeve to set the pre-load, which is accurately measured with the carrier out.

But to add I was just informed a better way for the easy way was just to mark the pinion nut, take it off, take out the flange, check your bearings, re-use the original crush sleeve, put a new seal in and tighten it all back down to where your mark was.

That way everything is closest to where it was originally.

ZWilson07

IN theory you could probably get the crush sleeve out, itd be kind of a pain but yes you could get it out, put a new one in and put the nut back where it was at..but that really is about the same chance of working as just putting the nut back where it was at n going 1/16th turn past on the old crush sleeve. While its a good idea thinking that its a better job, its still plain n simple not the proper way. He just needs to break down and do it the right way.

Warlockk

If you are simply replacing a leaky seal and your bearings are not an issue that's not a bad trick. Again you won't hit the correct preload. Remember torquing and retorquing changes the preload on a disposable bearing, but like you say it'll get you close and down the road. The risk is extra wear on ring an pinion and rear end noise. But still a good tip.

sylver91

Its just a pain to do it all if you don't have the right tools, and having a shop charge you a teardown for something like a seal. I know we started with side to side play with the pinion, and went way off track to seals

And yes i know its not the right way, I put new carrier and pinion bearings in a 8.8 earlier this month and did it per instructions, it was easy but i had the tools and a shop to do it in.

P.S Engine oil doesn't work the same as gear oil... which is why the side bearings fried in the carrier i fixed, guy put 15W-40 in it

ZWilson07

what a noob lol.

The only down fall to putting a new sleeve in it and putting the nut back where its at, is besides the obvious of not getting the pinion bearing preload right is that especially with higher mile vehicles such as this, its a good way to throw the gear mesh and tolerances off some due to a new part especially one that you have to use 300-400 ft lbs of force to crush on some worn parts that could have some slop to them from high miles.

Plus I really dont see the point of point a new crush sleeve in if your just going to put the nut back where it was at. The whole point of putting a new crush sleeve is to reset it preload so your still not going to b able to know where its at and if its right so you might as well just put the nut back n reuse the old one IF your goal is to do it that way. But either way those shouldn't be done if you want things to last, and then you def are going to have to pay someone to rebuilt it lol.

The only special tool you need is in inch pound torque wrench and it can be done in a day in your drive way. Imo I think the hardest part is to actually take the damn driveshaft off, the nut, and the flange and putting a new seal in. Thats the part I hate the most.

sylver91

it is a pain, used a puller for the flange and I used a dial indicator for the backlash and since I everything was taken apart re-torque it all down and use new shims the same size as the old ones. Good thing the spiders were ok. And I changed what I said, use the old sleeve, a little more accurate that way. If I was going to re-build a diff to last, yes I would defined take the time to do it right.

ZWilson07

If I was just replacing a leaky pinion seal id do it the right way, but it can seem alittle daunting if you've never done it before.

Warlockk

40w , 90w ehhh close enough. Lol. Maybe just use twice as much 40w?