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You are quite correct in that the T40 is the proper size for the inner bolt. Mine was so gummed up with dried oil and grit that the T30 took care of business. In the meantime, I corrected my post to reflect the correct size to use.
Originally Posted by Steve83
It's easier & safer to clean the engine compartment while the engine is still fully-assembled.
While prodding around ............. The outside air recirculation vacuum line has seen better days, The exposed vac line has literally deteriorated to dust.
With an inset from the 1994 F-Series/Bronco Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshoot Manual.
I had to roll back the sheathing to find good vac line to repair.
After finding good vac line, I slid on a length of new vac line over the old and on to the vac motor.
Meanwhile, I noticed the heater hose had worn through the sheathing on the wiring harness going to the A/C cycling switch and re-taped it as well.
That green ooze on the low-pressure switch connector is Copper corrosion, due to the condensation on those wires. If it gets worse, the compressor clutch may begin to slip & chatter, which will overheat the seal & dump the refrigerant. I'd replace that connector & add electrical grease (NOT dielectric, conductive, or any other kind) to slow down that process.
That green ooze on the low-pressure switch connector is Copper corrosion, due to the condensation on those wires. If it gets worse, the compressor clutch may begin to slip & chatter, which will overheat the seal & dump the refrigerant. I'd replace that connector & add electrical grease (NOT dielectric, conductive, or any other kind) to slow down that process.
The terminal was cleaned up with electrical contact cleaner. Not too worried about it. It'll most likely out last me.
The problem isn't the terminal, which is either tinned, galvanized, or gold-plated. That's not where the green oxidation came from. The problem is the WIRE strands, where they're crimped into the back of the terminal. That's where the corrosion is happening, and you can't access it to stop it or repair it. If you let it go, it will get exponentially more-expensive to fix. Right now, you could fix it for ~$10 and a few minutes' work.
05-27-2018, 12:35 PM
), you should do it BEFORE opening up the engine. This is how I spent the weekend:
