dejavouxdoux

Here's a link to a stubby spacer that may work to slightly lean out the mix.

http://hydrogengarage.com/store/inde...keyword=spacer

Warlockk

Well I don't know what a ratio of 1 is. I supposed that may be a typo. But the target ratio ( in general ) on a gasoline motor is 14.7 to 1. ( 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel ). As for my information source it comes from about 4 years of college and technical training including Ford technician training, ASE training, California smog technicians training and certification and the Army's fuel systems specialist certifications. I generally reference Fords online training material because its the fastest reference but I also have over $3000 worth of training manuals ant textbooks to flip through. It often seemed like books were the most expensive part of my education. I totally agree with you the internet is the biggest source of pseudo information out there. Much of it sounds official and correct but often is wrong. That's the main reason I chime in on these things. Trying to help everyone out and wherever I can. The members of this site do a good job if policing the information by questioning each other often. As for the the free power comment to sd, there are always compromises like sound and emissions regulations that's why I say its a rule of thumb. The point is if they could get more power or mpg for free and say they are that much better then the competition, or better yet get more for less money like by deleting a part they no longer have to pay for and install then wait is the reason? For example the cold air intake we always talk about. If ford can get a few more mpg by not adding the scoop they why on earth would they add it? It cost money, doesn't effect sound level and doesn't effect emissions. On the other hand why add a cat when you can delete it and tune the engine for a few more HP? Because it then won't meet legal requirements so you compromise. In that case you ask yourself, is it worth it to delete the part and breath toxic emissions, do some small amount of damage to the atmosphere, risk legal repercussions, and pay the money to reprogram the ecu to pick up a few HP or MPG. But generally if a manufacture can get more mpg or hp without violating laws or taking away safety or some other target feature ( like sound or ride quality in a luxury, or torque in a truck or mpg over HP in an economy ) then of course they will do it. A good example is the Top Gear episode where they tried to get more power out of a hatchback. Ever time they did a common upgrade, bigger brakes, ordinance wheels and tires, aero kit, intake mod...etc. the car went slower around the track. The reason, the factory did the best they could and it takes a lot of research and redesign of the whole system to get more out of it. In the end they managed to get it back to just under its original time after spending thousands of dollars.

dejavouxdoux

There is no RATIO of one. When the correct air to fuel ratio is achieved LAMDA is one. LAMDA is used only with wide band O2 sensors. By using Lamda the ECU can calculate the proper ratio for different types of fuel, i.e. E10, E15, E85. The thing that most people don't understand is that when you make mods on computer controlled vehicles, you have to re-map to gain anything besides a cool sound, etc. Here's a video about cold air intakes. Theses guys didn't gain anything until they put the filter outside the vehicle, right in front of the fan.

Warlockk

Ok gotcha. Few cars use the Lamda sensors. They are becoming much more common on newer cars though. Although the lamda reading, like the voltage reading only tells you what it is reading respective to the value of the sensor. Basically like a gas gauge reads empty to full but we have no idea what that means without the size of the tank. Your absolutely right about remapping. Unfortunately its hard on our old truck to remap the fuel ratios. Also remapping must be done accurately or you just loose out. I am reading a post by a friend on a motorcycle site about such an issue. He bought a commercial fuel controller supposed to gain performance over the factory settings. It didn't feel right so he added the recommended bolt on items, intake, filter, exhaust and it felt worse. He took it to a local builder with a great reputation who test rode it then ran it on the dyno. He confirmed about 10 HP below factory. A big loss on a v twin. He set about testing tuning and replacing and has got things back to factory power ratings. For kicks he reinstalled everything factory and gave the bike a good tune. It came up to about 5 HP over factory. Last post the technician is talking to the manufacturer of the parts. Anyway the point is its not easy to squeeze more power especially on newer vehicles. I try to stick to proven methods when I'm messing with stuff. Then the question is how much hassle is 5 HP really worth.

decipha

a ratio of 1 is stoichiometric, I.E. the "perfect" burn

narrow band oxygen sensors read lambda, anything below .4 volts is lean, anything above is rich, the ecu when in 'closed loop' adds and removes fuel to get the hego to switch

it doesn't matter what fuel you burn E85 or straight gasoline, the stock narrow band will still switch at stoich

http://info.efidynotuning.com/fuel101.htm