O2 Sensor spacer for better MPG
#21
Stubby Spacer
Here's a link to a stubby spacer that may work to slightly lean out the mix.
http://hydrogengarage.com/store/inde...keyword=spacer
http://hydrogengarage.com/store/inde...keyword=spacer
#22
Senior Member
I'm not gonna get into a big debate with anyone about this but let me make just a few more comments. I'm not sure where you get your information, but if it comes from the Net, it's always questionable. I've been removing ethanol from fuel for about six months and I haven't had a single problem. It's so easy a 5th grader can do it and it only takes about 10 minutes. And from what I've read (on the Net ??), it's the ethanol that causes the carbon buildup in your combustion chambers. The main ingredient in octane booster is methanol, which is a clean and cool burning fuel so I can't see where you would have any problems. When you take ethanol out of the mix you lose octane. I changed my original post because I can't find the article and I may have possibly misinterpreted something. I'm really not sure about 4 wheelers but with motorcycles the ECU always tries to achieve the Stoichiometric AFR. I know this because I was an instructor at MMI in Phoenix and took several courses about EFI theory and operation in my 4 1/2 years there. Thanks for your input.
#23
There is no RATIO of one. When the correct air to fuel ratio is achieved LAMDA is one. LAMDA is used only with wide band O2 sensors. By using Lamda the ECU can calculate the proper ratio for different types of fuel, i.e. E10, E15, E85. The thing that most people don't understand is that when you make mods on computer controlled vehicles, you have to re-map to gain anything besides a cool sound, etc. Here's a video about cold air intakes. Theses guys didn't gain anything until they put the filter outside the vehicle, right in front of the fan.
#24
Senior Member
Ok gotcha. Few cars use the Lamda sensors. They are becoming much more common on newer cars though. Although the lamda reading, like the voltage reading only tells you what it is reading respective to the value of the sensor. Basically like a gas gauge reads empty to full but we have no idea what that means without the size of the tank. Your absolutely right about remapping. Unfortunately its hard on our old truck to remap the fuel ratios. Also remapping must be done accurately or you just loose out. I am reading a post by a friend on a motorcycle site about such an issue. He bought a commercial fuel controller supposed to gain performance over the factory settings. It didn't feel right so he added the recommended bolt on items, intake, filter, exhaust and it felt worse. He took it to a local builder with a great reputation who test rode it then ran it on the dyno. He confirmed about 10 HP below factory. A big loss on a v twin. He set about testing tuning and replacing and has got things back to factory power ratings. For kicks he reinstalled everything factory and gave the bike a good tune. It came up to about 5 HP over factory. Last post the technician is talking to the manufacturer of the parts. Anyway the point is its not easy to squeeze more power especially on newer vehicles. I try to stick to proven methods when I'm messing with stuff. Then the question is how much hassle is 5 HP really worth.
#25
EFI Dyno Tuning.com
a ratio of 1 is stoichiometric, I.E. the "perfect" burn
narrow band oxygen sensors read lambda, anything below .4 volts is lean, anything above is rich, the ecu when in 'closed loop' adds and removes fuel to get the hego to switch
it doesn't matter what fuel you burn E85 or straight gasoline, the stock narrow band will still switch at stoich
http://info.efidynotuning.com/fuel101.htm
narrow band oxygen sensors read lambda, anything below .4 volts is lean, anything above is rich, the ecu when in 'closed loop' adds and removes fuel to get the hego to switch
it doesn't matter what fuel you burn E85 or straight gasoline, the stock narrow band will still switch at stoich
http://info.efidynotuning.com/fuel101.htm