devenfx4

One for the gauge.one for the pcm.

headstrong569

Your right Sean it doesn't that was my mistake it goes to 6. The point was though is the RPM's were extremely high for no apparent reason. Sorry for the confusion.

headstrong569

Kd3pc I'll definitely look into this information you gave me thanks!!!!

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Not trying to give you a hard time, just that's pretty high.

Warlockk

I think we should define the symptoms a little better before we go attacking things with parts and meters. Checking codes is the best place to start. Parts stores carry an old number reader for the old EEC system for about $30. That might be a good option for you as its a simple plug and read operation your boy should be able to do. When you say the rpm jumps up, does the vehicle speed up or does the transmission slip or drop down in gear. Is this and auto or manual. If its in gear and at speed over 50 mph the torque converter is definitely locked so if the engine is truly running up to 7k even in 3rd gear you are looking at near 100mph. If the engine is racing that high and your not flying down the road you definitely have a transmission issue. Now if the tach is sweeping wildly and not giving a true reading that is an ignition problem. The vehicle jerking and trying to die can be electrical, fuel, or transmission. Try to get those codes and try to recreate the problem and pay close attention to the details, what did each gauge do, car action engine speed wheel speed, sounds and smell. And pay attention to what happened to cause the failure and what happened afterwards. I hate to have you chasing all over the truck based on guesses. But there should definitely be codes stored. My gut tells me electrical.

Crowder

I had an issue similar to this and it was one of the sensors in the distributor.

headstrong

Hey guys sorry lost my password didn't have time to wait for them to send me a new one. Anyway Sean I didn't take it as you were giving me a hard time. Just as tall as I am the numbers looked different I really thought it went to 9. SO what I've done is I got a code scanner, not the top of the line but not the bottom of the barrel. On my KOEO test it came up empty. On my KOER test I got three codes keep in mind I ran both test several times KOER gave me 538 (Insufficient RPM change during the KOER Dynamic Response Test) or it could also mean for trucks only (invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test) I also got 536 (Brake on/off (BOO) circuit not activated during KOER) finally I got 632 (Overdrive Transmission Cancel Switch/no action during self engine run test.) Like I said I ran each test several times the second time I ran the KOER I manually pressed the overdrive button on the gear shifter and when I tested that time I didn't get the 632 code. I do know that during the whole time I was testing one time in between test the truck kind of sounded like it was choking and I seen a puff of smoke under the hood. it was just for a moment I wish I had the tester running then. I never could duplicate it to catch it on the tester. Now I have this information and have no idea what to do with it or if any of it's even the problem on hand

headstrong

Mr. Warlock I did get a code reader not top of the line not bottom of the barrel I posted the results here today. But I also wanted to follow your advice and define the symptoms a little clearer. Also I will give a little back play as to the events leading up to this.

A couple of days before all of this began I was at my in-laws house about 2.5 hours away. My father in-law has this big retired uhaul truck filled to the brim with lord knows what crap as it's a storage locker for him. I had tried many time to get it to start as he wanted it backed into the back yard so it wasn't sitting on the side of the house but to no avail. So this particular trip over there we took the truck instead of our car and I decided to pull it. It was heavier than I estimated and the ground was soft it took a series of pushing and pulling to finally get it where he wanted it the truck showed no signs of trouble before I was into corrections and became a sheriffs deputy I drove wreckers and concrete trucks so I know what to look and listen for. We then drove the truck the 2.5 hours home with no troubles. My wife drove the truck to work the next morning no problems. That evening I used the truck to run down to the corner store no issues on the way there. on the way back is when I was around 45 50 mph my rpms spiked but i wasn't going any faster but i wasn't slowing down either. I let off the gas let the rpms drop down pressed the gas again and all was fine the rest of the way home. the following morning my hard headed wife just had to take the truck to work again she got about 12 miles and the rpms spiked then suddenly dropped and it began spitting and sputtering and then cut out. Then it wouldn't start. A few people tried to stop and help and by the time I got there the battery was dead so my son and I just towed it home. we let it sit a day or two. then we went out hook jumper cabled to it and it started right up. I gave it hell while sitting out at the shop and nothing happened so I drove it back up to the house. each day for a week I think we'd go out and start it and just really lay into it and nothing. so i had my son take it to return movies to redbox as i'm disabled and if something happened I can't walk back to the house. My son got 2 miles from home and the rpms were up and down as the truck was trying to stall then fighting to stay running so he turned around and got it home. thats where we are now.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Those codes are most likely because you didn't do the test properly.

headstrong

Sean I hear that allot lately lol. I did them several time I followed the instructions to the letter and I never touched a thing other than when I manually turned on the overdrive before starting the test. I got the same codes each time. I don't know what I could have done wrong. This thing is driving me nuts.