Need some help if you can...... Engine Stumble
#21
Old Timer
I suggest you make a block-off plate/gasket to install between the EGR-V and the intake if not already done. This will insure you are not leaking anything in via the EGR-V.
See if you can adjust your TPS to less than 1volt, sometimes it matters, sometimes it doesn't. I prefer .85 v.
See attached procedure.
See if you can adjust your TPS to less than 1volt, sometimes it matters, sometimes it doesn't. I prefer .85 v.
See attached procedure.
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Thank you very much for the clarification on the idle (code 13) I was very confused by that readout and now that makes sense. I will adjust the TPS tomorrow and figure out a way to block off the EGR valve.
The idle was doing the same thing with the old PCM/ECM
The idle was doing the same thing with the old PCM/ECM
#24
I may have missed but have you tested your battery? And Alternator?
I’ve been experiencing a similar situation and one of the recommendations was to test them as a certain amount of AC Ripple (AC Voltage piggy backing the DC voltage can cause a problem with the PIP and SPOUT) it seems like a long shot, I haven’t tested mine yet but will soon- just throwing it out there as I haven’t found my problem yet either (See thread below for my issues). I’m following closely; please don’t forget to post the fix as so many seem to do! I promise I won’t either- I’ve got a lead on a bad connector to the IAC valve sensor (not getting 10.5V to the valve maybe causing to stay closed). But my problem isn’t only at idle..
I’ve been experiencing a similar situation and one of the recommendations was to test them as a certain amount of AC Ripple (AC Voltage piggy backing the DC voltage can cause a problem with the PIP and SPOUT) it seems like a long shot, I haven’t tested mine yet but will soon- just throwing it out there as I haven’t found my problem yet either (See thread below for my issues). I’m following closely; please don’t forget to post the fix as so many seem to do! I promise I won’t either- I’ve got a lead on a bad connector to the IAC valve sensor (not getting 10.5V to the valve maybe causing to stay closed). But my problem isn’t only at idle..
#25
Member
Thread Starter
#26
Member
Thread Starter
I may have missed but have you tested your battery? And Alternator?
I’ve been experiencing a similar situation and one of the recommendations was to test them as a certain amount of AC Ripple (AC Voltage piggy backing the DC voltage can cause a problem with the PIP and SPOUT) it seems like a long shot, I haven’t tested mine yet but will soon- just throwing it out there as I haven’t found my problem yet either (See thread below for my issues). I’m following closely; please don’t forget to post the fix as so many seem to do! I promise I won’t either- I’ve got a lead on a bad connector to the IAC valve sensor (not getting 10.5V to the valve maybe causing to stay closed). But my problem isn’t only at idle..
I’ve been experiencing a similar situation and one of the recommendations was to test them as a certain amount of AC Ripple (AC Voltage piggy backing the DC voltage can cause a problem with the PIP and SPOUT) it seems like a long shot, I haven’t tested mine yet but will soon- just throwing it out there as I haven’t found my problem yet either (See thread below for my issues). I’m following closely; please don’t forget to post the fix as so many seem to do! I promise I won’t either- I’ve got a lead on a bad connector to the IAC valve sensor (not getting 10.5V to the valve maybe causing to stay closed). But my problem isn’t only at idle..
Tested the alternator and its putting out the correct voltage and the battery is good. I'm not sure where to/how to test if AC voltage is bleeding in.... I will have to read about AC ripple to better understand what you are saying.
I too have some interesting wiring going on with the IAC as well but even with the weird wiring it seems to be metering out as functioning correctly. I'm really leaning towards a bad distributor/pick-up coil in the distributor. A guy on youtube had the identical problem to mine and he swapped it out and that fixed everything.
#28
Old Timer
O2, EVP, Etc.
The Air injector componentes and EGR-V are not active.
The Air Bypass and Injectors are wide open.
Although WOT can mask issues, when all else fails look at those ignored sensors and solenoids.
#29
Member
Thread Starter
Sorry for the lack of updates..... Been busy with work and here in Texas today its 20 degrees and we just don't do that LOL.
Ran AC Ripple test getting .020 volts at idle
Still, have same problems and check engine codes
Have not had time to make EGR block off plate but have serious doubts about that being the issue. The truck will immediately miss/stall/hesitate off cold starts and hot starts.
Should warm up later this week and ill be back at it again... But I'm really leaning towards something pick-up coil related based off what I have read.
TBI sensor on the side of the distributor tested out fine
Ran AC Ripple test getting .020 volts at idle
Still, have same problems and check engine codes
Have not had time to make EGR block off plate but have serious doubts about that being the issue. The truck will immediately miss/stall/hesitate off cold starts and hot starts.
Should warm up later this week and ill be back at it again... But I'm really leaning towards something pick-up coil related based off what I have read.
TBI sensor on the side of the distributor tested out fine
#30
Member
Thread Starter
When you go to WOT, the EECM ignores some sensor Inputs & Outputs.
O2, EVP, Etc.
The Air injector componentes and EGR-V are not active.
The Air Bypass and Injectors are wide open.
Although WOT can mask issues, when all else fails look at those ignored sensors and solenoids.
O2, EVP, Etc.
The Air injector componentes and EGR-V are not active.
The Air Bypass and Injectors are wide open.
Although WOT can mask issues, when all else fails look at those ignored sensors and solenoids.